Help Diagnosing Electric Start BOP Kawasaki

[RocketLab]

Have a Quickie 32 that won't turn over. I've checked the battery with a multimeter and get 12.35 volts. Put a new solenoid on it this morning and still nothing. I went to buy a new blade engagement safety switch yesterday but the parts gut tested it and said it was good. Wish I would have gone ahead and bought it anyway since its not that expensive.

I believe there are two more switches on it as well for the brake and transmission but not sure if these would cause the engine not to turn over. What else can I check with the multimeter and exactly how do I do it to trace this problem. Thanks in advance for any help I need to get this mower back in service.

[realdeal]

mine is doing the same thing. I can take a screw driver and jump the posts on the solenoid and it will turn over fine and crank. Mine only has 114hrs on it. 24hp kawasaki

[larryinalabama]

Yall fellers get a simple 12v test light, starter circuits arent too complacted.

[fixer67]

Originally Posted by larryinalabama

Yall fellers get a simple 12v test light, starter circuits arent too complacted.

But some of the safety interlock switches can be. It may go though a dozen switches ( and a few relays) between the key switch and the solenoid.
I have found more often than not the probelm with most machines is in the saftey switches.
As for the test light some times the test light is a better choice than a DMM.
I have seen DMM cause a simple problem take 2 or 3 times as long to find than a simple test light would have. Seen it happen Friday as a matter of fact at work.

[Nate'sLawnCare]

I believe the trans neutral switch will keep it from starting and I don't think the brake switch will. If you go to the BOP website and click on the repair videos link, then select the manual download for your model. There should be an electrical diagram in it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[RocketLab]

Originally Posted by fixer67

But some of the safety interlock switches can be. It may go though a dozen switches ( and a few relays) between the key switch and the solenoid.
I have found more often than not the probelm with most machines is in the saftey switches.
As for the test light some times the test light is a better choice than a DMM.
I have seen DMM cause a simple problem take 2 or 3 times as long to find than a simple test light would have. Seen it happen Friday as a matter of fact at work.

I'll get a new switch tomorrow. I have tested it with the DMM and it's a 4 prong. Only when I put the positive lead on one particular prong do I get an infinity reading that goes down to 1 when I press the switch. Not sure if I'm discovering anything with this or not. How would I test the ignition switch or the interlock switches with a test light on a 4 prong?

[fixer67]

Originally Posted by RocketLab

I'll get a new switch tomorrow. I have tested it with the DMM and it's a 4 prong. Only when I put the positive lead on one particular prong do I get an infinity reading that goes down to 1 when I press the switch. Not sure if I'm discovering anything with this or not. How would I test the ignition switch or the interlock switches with a test light on a 4 prong?

OK, not sure what your 4 prong looks like but it is most lilkely some like the one below. It is what I call a "see-saw" switch. It open one circuit while closing another one. You will see that two prongs are labled A and two labled B. Set the DDM to continuity or the lowest setting on the ohm scale. With the button out test between the A prongs. Now push the button in. Now do the same on the B prongs. As for the key switch no two are alike. You may have 50 switches that all have 5 pins but the insides as not the same. You need the pin out data for that switch.

[RocketLab]

Originally Posted by fixer67

OK, not sure what your 4 prong looks like but it is most lilkely some like the one below. It is what I call a "see-saw" switch. It open one circuit while closing another one. You will see that two prongs are labled A and two labled B. Set the DDM to continuity or the lowest setting on the ohm scale. With the button out test between the A prongs. Now push the button in. Now do the same on the B prongs. As for the key switch no two are alike. You may have 50 switches that all have 5 pins but the insides as not the same. You need the pin out data for that switch.

Got the pin out data for the starter switch and it checks out in all positions. However the transmission interlock switch shows continuity when testing the A prongs but nothing on the B prongs with the switch either in or out. My blade engagement switch shows continuity on A prongs and B prongs when the button is pressed in.

[fixer67]

I just found something that may help you. They have some repair videos at their web site at
http://www.betteroutdoorproducts.com...nersManual.asp


I can not find any wiring or owners manual but if you call them you may get some more infor.
http://www.betteroutdoorproducts.com...=ContactUs.asp


OK, the wiring is in the PDF manuals

[RocketLab]

Originally Posted by fixer67

I just found something that may help you. They have some repair videos at their web site at
http://www.betteroutdoorproducts.com...nersManual.asp


I can not find any wiring or owners manual but if you call them you may get some more infor.
http://www.betteroutdoorproducts.com...=ContactUs.asp


OK, the wiring is in the PDF manuals

Just a follow up. Turned out to be the transmission safety interlock switch after all. The thing that was throwing me off was the new solenoid I put on before changing the interlock switch was defective. So I was still searching for another problem. Once I put the old solenoid back on with the new interlock switch it cranked over like new. Thanks for all the help.