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  #11  
Old 03-29-2005, 08:31 PM
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How high is the deck off of the ground? Okay, lets say 11.5 inches, not pressure treated lumber but rather douglas fir with a recent coating of Behr Plus 10 deck and siding oil base stain.

And for the first layout, what you say about watering the beds is true, but again, lets just assume that we're only trying to water the turf, and no more. Can we see a design that works?
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  #12  
Old 03-30-2005, 09:42 AM
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One coat or two?

If you go back to the first layout, and avoid throwing water in the beds, you are putting heads next to them and throwing away from the beds. Even then, the nozzle selection and distance and arc adjustment can be more touchy than usual. Once you fill the corners, the rest of the design almost completes itself.

The point I'm trying to make in this thread is that you don't design a job only on paper. Like your client with a bed of irises to water, an experienced eye evaluates the conditions and offers options to choose from.
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  #13  
Old 03-30-2005, 01:52 PM
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Hey Wet Boots. Are you including an attachement in your posts? If you are, we... or at least I don't see them.

And point well taken about not designing a job only on paper. It was, nevertheless, my original intent in this post to simply see how other experienced, problem solving, people would approach laying out heads under certain circumstances, such as working about a deck, a group of trees, or other obstacles.

This design below is probably what we have in mind... that is if we have to get away from watering those corners. At least two seperate zones, and the number of heads around the curves may have to be more. The lines on the two end rotors indicate the arc, which is pretty close to 90 degrees. Some pretty hefty throws for some rotors...
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  #14  
Old 03-30-2005, 03:14 PM
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Okay, take two.

I cleared my computer cache, and see what you mean. I was using the 'insert image' button and getting two images, so I tried to 'undisplay' the attachment, so I'll upload it again. Thinking more of buildings than beds, I occasionally have to place rotors in corners, so close to each other, that they more or less cover the same area. The following design has that aspect, and it is by careful nozzle selection and adjustment, that you can minimize watering the beds, and still get close to even watering in combination with other rotor heads. The corner heads arc is about 120 degrees. I generally look to use rotors more than mist heads.
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  #15  
Old 03-30-2005, 10:32 PM
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Uh huh... I think that regardless of whether those are rotors or fixed spray heads around the corners the problem stays the same as far as trying to cover those curved areas without "cutting corners". In your example you would probably want to go with much smaller nozzles in the corners where coverage is going to be overlapping so much.
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  #16  
Old 04-05-2005, 05:37 PM
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Anyone have suggestions on head placement for watering around the trees in #2, or the deck in #3?
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  #17  
Old 04-10-2005, 11:38 PM
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Ok, I'll start with #3 and look back at two and maybe suggest something from there. I'm not going to get the cad out or scanner so a visual picture will have to do. The drawing makes the turf areas on either side of the deck appear to be 25' square. connect these two squares and water with 4 rotors each for a total of 8 heads. I would suggest I-20's with the short range nozzles, stream rotors, or PGM's depending on your prefrence for heads. Stream rotors with the correnct nozzles (don't have a chart in front of me right now, but I'm thinking 1.5 gpm nozzles) are always impressive. This leaves you a 35' by 100' rectangle to tackle with your choice of standard rotor set to throw aprox. 33'. So, zone 2 is also 8 rotors. Using what I call a small nozzle set a total gpm of 12. Using stream rotors or PGM's w/ 1.5 gpm nozzles we also have 12 total gpm. 2 ballanced zones that will run off of a standard 5/8 water meter and I'll even get it done with 50psi static if I don't have to use an RPZ.
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  #18  
Old 04-10-2005, 11:50 PM
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OK, first I've got my drawings switched, last post was #2 and the trees are #3. So, start with the standard near square spacing of 12 total heads. Then if we are suggesting that as near uniform precip is the customers primary concern and the spruces are to ground and not limbed up..... the head in the bottom right corner becomes a fill head with an appropriate nozzle change and we add a head on the right side just far enough up the perimiter to allow us to completely miss the spruce(hitting or almost missing the spruce implies another adjustment in the near future as the tree grows). In the cluster of 3, it appears that the tree at the bottom of the cluster is almost perfectly spaced for a full circle head. Again, cost becomes a major concern here, we are more than tripling the cost with out those trees of this one head. My solution would most likely be 3 part circle heads in between the trees on a triangle that extended just beyond the drip line. I would also then advocate a fill head with a very small nozzle in the center of the three trees. In a much less picky situation, I would install two heads instead of the one and live with the coverage limitations produced by the trees.
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2005, 05:51 PM
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Actually I was the one that got mixed up on what figure was #2 and which one was #3. So I'll look at #2 with the deck first.

I think your plan is very solid, bicmudpuppy, as far as I can see. I think that the PGM has been replaced by the PGJ, though the 1.5 nozzle is a few feet short of hitting that 25' mark to the sides of the deck, but the I-10/20 rotors would work well for both zones. Your right, the 1.5 short radius nozzle for the I-10/20 look like they would do the job, while the standard 1.5 or 2.0 (if we had the water) nozzles would suffice for the larger area. However, if we use the same nozzles all around on the larger area, our precip rate at the 180 degree heads would only be half of the 90s. So... do we live with it?
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2005, 11:52 PM
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OK, had to re-read my post and I did say 2 zones......but I meant 3. the large area at 12gpm means two zones each 12gmp. 4 1.5gpm heads and 4 3.0gpm heads. zoning can be by row or section depending on the site. if its a slope from side to side then I would split the zones left and right, If it slopes either forward or backward, I would make each row a zone. If it's flat or near flat........what ever lays out with the least wire/pipe and still be hydraulically sound. (valves in the center of the zone)
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