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Old 04-12-2005, 09:09 AM
lenster lenster is offline
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What is the proper way to remove the blades of walk-behind mower

Hello All

I purchased an Exmark metro 48 recently which came with replacement blades. I was cleaning under the deck after my first cut and realized the blades have quite a few chips in them and are very dull. I decided to see if I can change them. I tried to turn the bolts loose but am having problems. Is there a trick to this like using a block of wood to hold the blade while you turn the the bolt on top of the spindle? Extra large rachet maybe? In what direction do you turn clock-wise etc. Do the bolts really need to be torqued down during re-installation.
I have changes blades on the 21" decks without a problem.
I could not find any other info on this site.

Thanks
Lenster
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:46 AM
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KathysLGC KathysLGC is offline
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Right above the blade (not the spindle) you'll see you can put an adjustable wrench to it. Now take your ratchet with i think a 15/16 socket and loosen the bolt. Do not hole the bolt on top of the spindle. The bolt will be tighter then one from a 21" mower so you might need to use a pipe for leverage.
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Old 04-12-2005, 10:10 AM
lenster lenster is offline
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What is the proper way to remove the blades of walk-behind mower

Quote:
Originally Posted by Playboy
Right above the blade (not the spindle) you'll see you can put an adjustable wrench to it. Now take your ratchet with i think a 15/16 socket and loosen the bolt. Do not hole the bolt on top of the spindle. The bolt will be tighter then one from a 21" mower so you might need to use a pipe for leverage.

Playboy

When I look at the parts manual the bolt that hold the blade appears to be held in place from the top with the nut above the spindle?
The bolt is very long?
Am I missing something?

Lenster
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:03 AM
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pwarren4 pwarren4 is offline
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Yes, the bolt is very long, 10 in. or so. The bolt goes all the way thru the spindle and is held with the nut on top. Standard direction thread (right hand), 15/16 wrench needed top and bottom. I always re-torque these to 85 ft lbs when replacing, and I make sure the mating surfaces are clean. This should help keep the blades from slipping and over tightening the center bolt, making it near impossible to get off later.

Good Luck!
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:06 AM
Mower For Less Mower For Less is offline
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The bolt comes in from the bottom, it is a 15/16 hex. Immediately on the other side (top side) of the blade are two flats (I believe 1" wrench?) that you put a second wrench on to keep the spindle from turning while you loosen the 15/16 hex. It is a normal RH thread (lefty loosy).

I am in the habit of using an Impact Wrench to loosen mine, so I dont use the 1" wrench to hold the spindle.

Kevin
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:58 AM
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pwarren4 pwarren4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mower For Less
The bolt comes in from the bottom, it is a 15/16 hex. Immediately on the other side (top side) of the blade are two flats (I believe 1" wrench?) that you put a second wrench on to keep the spindle from turning while you loosen the 15/16 hex. It is a normal RH thread (lefty loosy).

I am in the habit of using an Impact Wrench to loosen mine, so I dont use the 1" wrench to hold the spindle.

Kevin
This is not how my Metro 48" fixed deck is made - Mine has the bolts going all the way thru the spindle. This allows for spacers to be put in and adjusted at the blades as well as the wheels for added cut height adjustability.
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Old 04-12-2005, 12:27 PM
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marko marko is offline
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From the picture, it looks like my Toro. Put a 15/16" (or appropriate size) on the bolt holding the blades (underneath the mower), remove the belt cover and put another wrench over the nut above the spindle. Lock mower under the edge of a trailer (so it is leaned back w/ front wheels as high off the ground as possible) and take the bolt off. Be careful because there should be spacers above and below the spindle to make fine adjustments to blade height!
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Old 04-12-2005, 12:38 PM
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Tharrell Tharrell is offline
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Check this tool I made. Or, you can buy one from Lesco.
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  #9  
Old 04-12-2005, 12:41 PM
Tvov Tvov is offline
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As marko said. We used 15/16 socket wrenches, usually we use air wrench now. Make sure bolts are clean, and sockets have a good hold, so they don't slip off. You end up exerting a lot of pressure while changing blades, so be careful.

We DO NOT use adjustable wrenches. Years ago, when we still used adjustable wrenches, one of my guys was putting freshly sharpened blades on one of the mowers, when the adjustable wrench slipped. The blade swung around and sliced his hand open. Almost 6", down to the bone. It was very impressive looking. Amazingly the blade missed critical parts of the inside of his hand, so six weeks later he was back at work.

So, be careful.

As mentioned, keep track of any washers/spacers, so you can put them back on in the correct order.
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  #10  
Old 04-12-2005, 12:52 PM
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pcnservices pcnservices is offline
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Impact wrench - way to go!

Lenster,
Get yourself one of these Blade Busters. Very inexpensive piece of equipment and it works very good.
If you get really lazy like me and you hate crawling under the dirty deck after a hard days work then get yourself an impact wrench. May guys here recommend the cordless ones. They are pretty expensive but they work good. I have a pneumatic impact wrench. With an impact you dont even have to hold the blade down.
Good luck
PC
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