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  #11  
Old 05-25-2005, 08:41 PM
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muddstopper muddstopper is offline
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Location: transition zone
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If 55 gal will cover 80sqft X 55=4400 sqft and it cost $35 a gal,, thats a mrkup of $405 per barrel at 10cents a sqft. Not bad money. I am just wonder tho, how often do you have to sealcoat a drive or parking lot to keep it looking good. If i was to get every parking lot in my community, I still dont know if I could make such a business work. If the product last for several years, I would soon run out of work or have to start traveling farther just to stay in business.

What do you use to remove the oilspots in parking lots?
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  #12  
Old 05-25-2005, 09:59 PM
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Jackman Jackman is offline
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To answer betterlawn's question on prep work I basicly just do what ever is needed to get the drive way clean the most common things I find are the grass growing over the edge in that case just cut or edge then wire brush any dirt off.... Muddstopper"s question on oil spots with them I just give it a hard wire brushing blow off and apply "Petro Seal" (available thru Sealmaster Supply) without the Petro seal the old oil stain will not allow the sealer to stick to the asphalt. Another common problem you might find is cracks, I think its best to have a hot tar kettle to fill the deep ones for the small ones I have used "Gator Pave" (also available thru Sealmaster supply".... Muddstopper on makeing a sealing biz work, for me its just a side thing for the occasional drought summer when the lawns and landscape work drops off..I agree that to just run a seal coating biz would be tough as the season is a short one...
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  #13  
Old 05-29-2005, 08:51 AM
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DJ Contracting DJ Contracting is offline
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Sorry to reply so slow , however we pay $1.49 per gal at a local asphalt co., now i have a few questions about the poly tank compared to the steel tanks. I would like to set up one of my truck with a tank mounted in the box, with a B/S motor so i can also do larger parking lots.
1. can you get a ploy tank with an agitator
2. can you use a poly tank from a TSC store (6" top opening 2" lower )
3. what advantages do the steel tank have over the poly.
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  #14  
Old 05-29-2005, 11:21 AM
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PROCUT1 PROCUT1 is online now
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To answer your questions they do make a poly tank or a plastic tank with an agitator. Equipt mfg makes them.....They cost just as much as a stell tank air setup..

I have a 500 gallon trailer full air spray system... No its not messy, if youre somewhat decent with the spray wand you will keep the sealer on the grass.

If you look up STAR SEAL on google......They make what is called a " business in a box". Its a 275 tote tank, hoses, wand and a pacer pump.

If you go to any sealcoating forums all they do is make fun of this thing, but Ill tell you from personal experience that IT WORKS. I started out my first year with one of those and it made me enough money to pay cash for my spray system which i will say cost around the price of a new truck.

For under $1,000 to start I would pick up one of those machines.
Heres the link

http://www.starsealofohio.com/catalog/sealcoat-rig.html">
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  #15  
Old 05-29-2005, 07:38 PM
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DJ Contracting DJ Contracting is offline
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I did some investigating into that system that and found that i can buy the same motor and pump and use a truck (425 gal tank) from TSC and all the hardware to make my own for $750.00, and i get 225 gallons, more. So tomorrow i'll get started and when i'm done i'll post pictures
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  #16  
Old 05-29-2005, 11:46 PM
chinenjim chinenjim is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
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Here's how ya do it!

I have been in the sealcoating business since 1998. I started with a truck-mounted gilsonite (oil-based) machine that consisted of an 80 gal. square tank, a 1 inch Viking gear pump powered by a 5hp briggs with a gear reducer, and 100 ft. of spray hose (1/2 inch) and wand. Where I live, many homeowners actually prefered oil-based sealer, and it was much easier to apply on residential driveways as opposed to emulsion sealers. There was no "cutting in" or brush-work involved. The spray pattern was razor-sharp, and with a steady hand overspray could be completely avoided. The sealer cost about $2.50 /gal, but with that stuff, you could cover 20,000 square feet with 100 gallons. Those days are over now in PA due to the new VOC laws, so this year I had to switch totally to emulsion sealer.

I had been doing emulsion for the past 3 years anyway on commercial work, due to the wearability and traction issues of oil-based sealer in high traffic areas. Here is how my new rig is set up:

-230 gal. hand agitated tank with built-in 30 gal. water tank (for cleanup and extra water toward the end of the mix)-custom made steel

-poly brush water box (keeps the brushes wet at all times)

-1 gal. basket strainer---a MUST if you want to spray emulsion!

-2 inch Pacer trash pump--Despite what many will say, these pumps work. I spray with one on a daily basis, and they WILL pump sealer with sand loads. No, they don't last forever but what does? I usually go through 30-40,000 gals of sealer each season and burn up 2 pumps in the process. A pump / motor combo costs 250 bucks. So that's 500 dollars a year. Not too bad and MUCH cheaper that complex air-operated systems that pulsate and wear out just as fast.

-100 ft. of 3/4 inch goodyear spray hose and wand.

It's pretty much a more heavy-duty version of the Star Seal econo rig. Those tanks and green suction hoses are gay, but the pumps ROCK. feel free to ask me anything else. Hope this helps.

BTW, it's 10 cents for residential, 7-8 cents for commercial. that's what you should be getting.
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  #17  
Old 05-30-2005, 07:01 AM
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DJ Contracting DJ Contracting is offline
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one correction on post #15 thats 150 gallons more not 225 as i stated and the pump is the 2" pacer trash pump, that Chinenjim uses.

Last edited by DJ Contracting; 05-30-2005 at 07:06 AM.
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  #18  
Old 06-02-2005, 03:53 PM
chinenjim chinenjim is offline
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Remember The Strainer!

Remember, if you are going to spray this stuff, you NEED a strainer. Otherwise you will be getting clogs left and right. Make sure that if you use a 2 inch pump, that everything behind it is also 2 inch, even the suction port on the tank, to insure optimal pressure.
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  #19  
Old 06-02-2005, 10:24 PM
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DJ Contracting DJ Contracting is offline
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Location: Mid Michigan
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Where do have to locate the stainer, in the 2" suction line or the 3/4" spray line. I have a water transfer kit with a strainer that will be located in the fill cap, i would believe that when i circulate the seal coat that the strainer would break up any clumps. check out this web site www.starsealofohio.com and you can see the strainer that i'm talking about. Thank for any advise Joe.
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  #20  
Old 06-22-2005, 08:06 AM
American Seal-Right American Seal-Right is offline
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The Answer

As far as pricing is concerned look at your local paper and see what other sealer are quoting in thier ads (example, 1000 sq ft for $109.00) that works ot to $.109 cent per sq ft which is good in upstate New York for residential driveways. Commercial applications average around $.06 per sq ft. As far as a tank goes I have used the buckets from HD, as a beginner its hard because they have sand in them and you have to make sure the sand is througouly mixed so you don't get rough or raised patchs. Tanks are the best, you can buy your product in bulk (see sealmaster.com and look for a supplier in your area). Search the web for seal coating equipment and find tank suppliers or just go to Tractor Supply and get the round 325 gallon plastic tank with legs, buy the 3.5 hp sludge pump and enough T's, 90's, unions, and hosing to plum your tank so the pump recirculates the product back into the tank (fitting out of the bottom of the tank to a T one part of the T goes to the pump the other to a on/off valve, from the pump Out-Side another hose and fitting back to the top of the tank you'll have to use a hole cutter and make your own new opening on the top of the tank use the pump to mix and recirculate your product. This set-up will cost you around $700.00. Or you can just go over to Tarvia Seal in Syracuse and buy a steel tank all set up for sealing for about $1,500.00. Either way you will need a 3500# trailer to get it around. As far as brush or squeege, the squeege does not leave anough product on your customers driveway, get the 3' brush with the 7' aluminum handle ($75.00) you will also need a steel broom and good blower and weed eater. Good luck
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