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Old 08-25-2005, 11:14 AM
jtrice11 jtrice11 is offline
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Preemergent in the fall

Here in Minnesota if you are going to put down a fall application of Pre emergent what is the best time?
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Old 08-25-2005, 11:57 AM
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GreenUtah GreenUtah is offline
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Regardless of the area, you need to decide what your target of control is, when it's germination time will be and how long the effective window for your pre-emergent will be. Under most conditions, at common rates, most pre-emergents have an effective window of 90-120 days. If your target is crabgrass that will germinate next June, applying 7 months prior will do what? If you have a different target in mind, just work backwards with your effective window and you'll have your answer. Pre-emergent is too expensive to waste.
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Old 08-25-2005, 12:00 PM
Pro Lawn LLC Pro Lawn LLC is offline
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I don't know about pre-emerge for the north, but if you base these types of applications on soil temps. you won't go wrong. For example - figure out at what soil temperature your target weeds germinate and just make sure you have your pre-emerge out slighty before the temp reaches that point. Best of luck.
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Old 08-25-2005, 02:39 PM
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Grassmechanic Grassmechanic is offline
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Actually, MSU did a study on fall applications of Pre-emergents. Dimension did very good on the test for crabgrass control the following season. This was done on cool season turf.
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Old 08-25-2005, 04:41 PM
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wriken wriken is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grassmechanic
Actually, MSU did a study on fall applications of Pre-emergents. Dimension did very good on the test for crabgrass control the following season. This was done on cool season turf.
Wonder when they put it down in the fall, also wondering when the soil reaches, what is it for crab, 55 degrees? I'm thinking of putting down pre, this fall if I can find out when.
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Old 08-25-2005, 04:51 PM
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GreenUtah GreenUtah is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grassmechanic
Actually, MSU did a study on fall applications of Pre-emergents. Dimension did very good on the test for crabgrass control the following season. This was done on cool season turf.
But what were the soil conditions, density of the stand, fertilization schedule, available moisture and the window of when the soil heated up the next spring for cg germination? Did it perform the same as if it had been applied in the spring? What window if effectiveness does Dimension claim? Those are a few of the questions I would want answers to before gambling with my customer base that provides for my family and my employees families. But hey, that's me. I'm an agronomic conservative..lol
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Old 08-25-2005, 05:44 PM
teeca teeca is offline
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is there a reason your putting down pre-m in the fall Vs. in the spring? being your even farther north then me in Indiana, why would you wast the money in the fall w/ pre-m. when you could put down a 46-0-0 to help the grass w/ storing the carb's it needs for the winter, then apply pre-m in the spring. i think you would be better off doing a weed spray in the fall to kill the winter annuals, this has been proven time and again to be the most effective time to control weeds.
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:15 PM
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wriken wriken is offline
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[QUOTE=teeca]is there a reason your putting down pre-m in the fall Vs. in the spring? being your even farther north then me in Indiana, why would you wast the money in the fall w/ pre-m. when you could put down a 46-0-0 to help the grass w/ storing the carb's it needs for the winter, then apply pre-m in the spring. i think you would be better off doing a weed spray in the fall to kill the winter annuals, this has been proven time and again to be the most effective time to control weeds.[/QUOT


I've been hearing some people doing this, I never have, but MSU apparently did a study on this, I know there big in turf. Maybe if you could find the right window to apply it, it would work, I probably will put it down in early spring though.
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Old 08-25-2005, 10:32 PM
teeca teeca is offline
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purdue univ. is where i learned this. they have done all kinds of studies on when to spray, and say fall gives the best results hands down, of course you will still need to spray the dandy's in the spring though. the problem i have with fall pre-m's, other then the HIGH cost of product, is that alot of people overseed in the fall, nothing worse then killing $50+ worth of seed. i apply pre-e in the spring at 1/2 rate on round 1 (granular), then the other 1/2 on round 2 along w/ weed and fert (liquid). i used dimension only (insted of pendulum) for the first time this year and have to say it kicked a** ! with pendulum i had good coverage on crabgrass, but fox tail was a problem, with dimension, not a sign of any yet!! (knock on wood)
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Old 08-25-2005, 10:45 PM
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stumper1620 stumper1620 is offline
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[QUOTE=wriken]
Quote:
Originally Posted by teeca
is there a reason your putting down pre-m in the fall Vs. in the spring? being your even farther north then me in Indiana, why would you wast the money in the fall w/ pre-m. when you could put down a 46-0-0 to help the grass w/ storing the carb's it needs for the winter, then apply pre-m in the spring. i think you would be better off doing a weed spray in the fall to kill the winter annuals, this has been proven time and again to be the most effective time to control weeds.[/QUOT


I've been hearing some people doing this, I never have, but MSU apparently did a study on this, I know there big in turf. Maybe if you could find the right window to apply it, it would work, I probably will put it down in early spring though.
MSU is big on pre-m in the fall for turf that has blue grass problems. I've never heard anything from them about spring crab other than spring app of pre-m.
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