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Old 08-26-2005, 01:59 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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Toro 16hp Z not charging

My son has a 16hp 44" cut Toro Z and the battery runs down pretty quickly. Seems like it is not charging. How difficult is it to check or replace the altenator? Anything else to check for?
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Old 08-26-2005, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlkjr
My son has a 16hp 44" cut Toro Z and the battery runs down pretty quickly. Seems like it is not charging. How difficult is it to check or replace the altenator? Anything else to check for?
There are a few things that should be checked before tearing into it.
Post the model and spec. numbers off the engine and unit so we can see what he has. Does it have a electric pto clutch ?
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:38 PM
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First check the fuse. Most charging systems are not made to charge a dead battery but to just keep it up from going dead. If the battery is let to get down real low like you leave the lights on or leave the switch on or something when the engine does get going it will blow the fuse trying to charge the battery. Most charging systems are rated at 20 to 25 amps but most machine wiring systems are fused at 15 to 20 amps so you can see real quick how a fuse can blow. So when you run the battery down really low do not depend on the on board charging system to ba able to bring it back up. That is what battery chargers are for. Remove one wire from the battery (does not matter which one) before hooking up the battery charger or you could mess up some on board system especially if it is an EFI engine. SO first check all fuses and yes a lot of unit will start with a blown charging circuit fuse and some will not but check all fuses first.
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Old 08-26-2005, 10:37 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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I don't know all the numbers on it yet. He is supposed to bring it over next week and drop it off at my house. It will crank and run fine with a new or fully charged battery and he says eventually it will go dead after he cuts with it about 4 times. Thanks for the tips so far. As soon as I get the model numbers I will post them.
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Old 08-27-2005, 04:02 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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OK gurus here are the numbers. This is a Z16-44 Timecutter with a 16hp Briggs. Model 31E777 Type 0126E1 Code 020117ZA It does have an electric PTO for the blades.
When I went to pick it up it would barely turn over, so my son connected one of those battery boosters to get it cranked so we could load it. After I got home it cranked fine and I unloaded it and about 2 hours later it cranked ok and I cut grass with it for about 45 minutes. The battery voltage reads 12.49 volts. I think something must be draining the voltage down. The shop he bought it from says it's a 3 month wait for repair. So much for timely service.
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Old 08-27-2005, 04:11 PM
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This is a post I made just a little while ago, Try this test and see what you find.
Btw; A unit with electric pto should be ran at full throttle so the charging system can keep up with the voltage demand of the clutch.

It's always good to check all grounds and electrical connections, Given the fact the battery is dead after sitting over nite is a indication of a possible short in the electrical system somewhere. Fully recharge the battery and let stand disconnected from the unit for about a hour, Doing this will allow the surface charge to dissipate for a more accurate test.
First ; Connect the negitive cable up and using a multimeter or test light connect the neg. test lead to the pos. battery post and the pos. test lead to the pos. battery cable, You should have no reading or light on. If you do go to the double wire plug on the engine for the stator and unplug it, If the reading or light drops the stator is shorted out and needs replacing.
If you still get a reading or light stays on after unpluging the stator the short is in the tractor it's self and will need a visual inspection of the wire harness for any bare wires grounding out.
If you have no reading or light when hooked between the pos. post and cable, Reconnect the pos. cable and put your meter leads on the battery and start the engine and run at full throttle, The charging system should be putting out between 13.6 and 14.5 volts , If not unplug the stator again and check for battery voltage on the harness plug, If you have voltage there the stator is most likely bad.
Check this out and post your findings.
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Old 08-27-2005, 06:14 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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Thanks for the tips. I know the voltage across the battery does not fluctuate with engine speed. It is a constant 12.43-49 volts. I'm not quite sure which wires go to the stator as I'm not that familiar with it. I'm going out and try to follow these instructions and see what I can determine. I'm wondering if the key switch might be getting shorted between the stop position and the next position over? I can hear some start relays operating when I turn the key to the first postion over. What is that little 2"x2"x 3/4" box on the side of the motor with the yellow wires. Is that some kind of capacitor?
Thanks again.
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Old 08-27-2005, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlkjr
Thanks for the tips. I know the voltage across the battery does not fluctuate with engine speed. It is a constant 12.43-49 volts. I'm not quite sure which wires go to the stator as I'm not that familiar with it. I'm going out and try to follow these instructions and see what I can determine. I'm wondering if the key switch might be getting shorted between the stop position and the next position over? I can hear some start relays operating when I turn the key to the first postion over. What is that little 2"x2"x 3/4" box on the side of the motor with the yellow wires. Is that some kind of capacitor?
Thanks again.
That box is the voltage regulator, That is where you want to test to make sure you have battery voltage when the key is on.
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Originally Posted by piston slapper View Post
You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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Old 08-27-2005, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by restrorob
That box is the voltage regulator, That is where you want to test to make sure you have battery voltage when the key is on.
I need to know what color wires are coming out of the regulator and what color connectors they are in. Is there a single connector and a double connector 3 wires total ? Briggs has many charging systems and this is how they tell them apart.
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You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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Old 08-27-2005, 07:22 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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Three wires coming out of the voltage reg. I did find that finally on a parts list online at their website.
This is what I found out. Disconnected both plugs, one from reg. and another small one with two wires. Read 0.9 volts from red cable that I disconnected to the pos term of battery. There is a round 4 terminal connecting block that the starter cable connects to and another red cable to the positive term of battery. If I take off all 4 wires, I still read about 0.3 to 0.4 from the big terminals to the battery. Is this connecting block supposed to be grounded?
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