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  #11  
Old 08-27-2005, 07:49 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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I'm using a Fluke Digital Multimeter for the readings. I'm going to leave the positive cable connected from the battery to the round connector(starter switch?) overnight with all other wires disconnected and see if it still reads 12.50 in the morning.
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2005, 07:52 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlkjr
Three wires coming out of the voltage reg. I did find that finally on a parts list online at their website.
This is what I found out. Disconnected both plugs, one from reg. and another small one with two wires. Read 0.9 volts from red cable that I disconnected to the pos term of battery. There is a round 4 terminal connecting block that the starter cable connects to and another red cable to the positive term of battery. If I take off all 4 wires, I still read about 0.3 to 0.4 from the big terminals to the battery. Is this connecting block supposed to be grounded?
Ok, The round connecting block you call it is the starter solenoid and it is grounded when mounted to the frame or body. Reconnect all wires back on that and focus on the regulator. Go back The red singal wire you unplugged you said you had 0.9 volts on, Put your red test lead on the wire coming out of the regulator and ground the black test lead, Start the engine and run at full throttle and check voltage there, oh make sure to reconnect the double yellow wire plug before doing this test. Post back your findings.
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  #13  
Old 08-27-2005, 08:15 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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It's getting a little too dark as I'm doing this outside instead of in my shop so I'm going to knock off for tonight and watch the Bristol race. I'm a little confused arout reading from the voltage reg. if I put the connector back on. Should I read through the insulation? I"m assuming two of the wires from the voltage reg. go to the stator?
Thanks Restorob for the help so far.
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  #14  
Old 08-28-2005, 12:14 AM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlkjr
It's getting a little too dark as I'm doing this outside instead of in my shop so I'm going to knock off for tonight and watch the Bristol race. I'm a little confused arout reading from the voltage reg. if I put the connector back on. Should I read through the insulation? I"m assuming two of the wires from the voltage reg. go to the stator?
Thanks Restorob for the help so far.
Lets just forget about EVERYTHING above and start over !
With EVERYTHING hooked back up as normal look at the regulator, You have a single red lead coming out of it with a red connector and two yellow wires coming out of it with a yellow double connector.
Unplug the red connector, Put your meter on volts DC and put the red test meter lead on the red connector ON the regulator and the black test meter lead to a good ground. Start the engine and check for dc voltage on your meter, At full throttle it should be between 13.8 and 14.5, If you do have this voltage shut the engine off. This shows the charging system on the engine is working fine there is a problem with the mower electrical system. Remove the red test lead from the regulator and put it on the other end of the connector which is the single wire going into the mower wire harness. Just turn the key switch to the on position and you should have atleast 9.5 volts up to battery
voltage. If you don't have this voltage there trace this wire back up to the M or MAG post on the back of the ignition switch to find the break in the system.

If you do not have the 13.8 to 14.5 volts on the single red lead coming out of the voltage regulator at full throttle shut the engine off and take your test lead off the red wire and remove your black test lead from ground.
Set your meter on ohms, unplug the double connector with the two yellow wires, connect your test leads to the stator side of this conector plug one on each wire ( should be two black wires) this should read a closed circuit if it does not the stator is bad and needs replacing. If it reads a closed circuit leave one test lead connected and take the other test lead and touch a engine ground it should read a open circuit, If it is the stator is fine and the voltage regulator is bad and needs replacing. If it reads a closed circuit the stator is shorted and needs replacing.

Hopefully I didn't loose you on this one, If I did just shout back.
It would have been much easier to post pics. from the manual but Briggs has none on line that I know of.
Anyway good luck
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2005, 12:42 AM
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fixer67 fixer67 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlkjr
Three wires coming out of the voltage reg. I did find that finally on a parts list online at their website.
This is what I found out. Disconnected both plugs, one from reg. and another small one with two wires. Read 0.9 volts from red cable that I disconnected to the pos term of battery. There is a round 4 terminal connecting block that the starter cable connects to and another red cable to the positive term of battery. If I take off all 4 wires, I still read about 0.3 to 0.4 from the big terminals to the battery. Is this connecting block supposed to be grounded?
As soon as you remove the battery from the circuit by unplugging the red wire the voltage regulator shut down. The voltage regulator has to have from 4 to 6 volts going to the red wire before it will switch on. If the voltage regulator can not "see" the battery it will not put out any power. I have seen a lot of people make this mistake before and replace voltage regulators that were working just fine.
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2005, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixer67
As soon as you remove the battery from the circuit by unplugging the red wire the voltage regulator shut down. The voltage regulator has to have from 4 to 6 volts going to the red wire before it will switch on. If the voltage regulator can not "see" the battery it will not put out any power. I have seen a lot of people make this mistake before and replace voltage regulators that were working just fine.
Ok, So I forgot this detail it's been quite a while since I checked this system, Thanks for the reminder !


So instead of putting the red test lead on the unplugged red voltage regulator wire it should be reconnected to the mower harness and voltage checked right on the pos. battery post.


Boy, I'm starting to confuse myself trying to explain this, In this case it's much easier done than said ! LOL
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"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2005, 01:02 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by restrorob
Ok, So I forgot this detail it's been quite a while since I checked this system, Thanks for the reminder !


So instead of putting the red test lead on the unplugged red voltage regulator wire it should be reconnected to the mower harness and voltage checked right on the pos. battery post.


Boy, I'm starting to confuse myself trying to explain this, In this case it's much easier done than said ! LOL
I'm glad you're confused because I sure am. Where am I supposed to be checking the voltage?
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  #18  
Old 08-28-2005, 01:28 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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I'm beginning to wonder if there's a problem with the starter. I don't think my son has been reading the battery voltage, just assuming the battery was dead. Yesterday when it wouldn't crank, it would turn over very slowly and when he put the booster on it, it started fine and has cranked everytime since. I did observe the battery voltage drop to 8-10 volts a couple of times during the cranking period.
I guess at this point we should just wait until it gets where it won't crank again and then troubleshoot. I did notice when I put the positive cable back on the starter that the bolt coming out the starter seemed loose and wobbly. But when I put the nut on and tightened it, it tightened up fine.
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  #19  
Old 08-28-2005, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlkjr
I'm beginning to wonder if there's a problem with the starter. I don't think my son has been reading the battery voltage, just assuming the battery was dead. Yesterday when it wouldn't crank, it would turn over very slowly and when he put the booster on it, it started fine and has cranked everytime since. I did observe the battery voltage drop to 8-10 volts a couple of times during the cranking period.
I guess at this point we should just wait until it gets where it won't crank again and then troubleshoot. I did notice when I put the positive cable back on the starter that the bolt coming out the starter seemed loose and wobbly. But when I put the nut on and tightened it, it tightened up fine.
Ok, If your meter read 8-10 volts while cranking what did it read when it cranked up and was run to full throttle ?
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You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #20  
Old 08-28-2005, 02:07 PM
wlkjr wlkjr is offline
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At full throttle it reads 12.5 straight across the battery posts.
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