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  #11  
Old 11-06-2005, 09:54 AM
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muddstopper muddstopper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_country
I never claim to know anything. I was thinking a true acre was 250x250 wrong, thats were i got the 60xxx sq. ft. What is the approximate dimensions of an acre? I was thinking the rule of thumb was 400 lbs of seed for a bare acre, yall say 300 lbs will be thick? What is the best lawn fescue to use? Ive seen KY 31 seeded thick, but that was the 400lbs an acre come out really thick and nice. What is the right amount of fertilizer to apply on an acre?
Didnt mean to criticize so hard, sorry. Misinformation on the internet is often taken as the truth if read by someone that doesnt know any better. One reason a person should seek more than one source of information to be sure the information they have found is acurate.

Seed rate for fescue, as well as other grass types, are usually increased to make up for seed kill created from artificial means. This is usually in the form of to much of the wrong blend of fertilizer. High seed rates also cause competition between the grass plants for available moisture as well as nutrients. In drought conditions, lower seed rates and low amounts of low salt content fertilizer can/will actually result in a thicker better looking stand of grass than high seed rates and massive amounts of starter ferts on non-irrigated turf. While heavy seed rates might create the appearance of a thick healthy turf, the turf can only be maintained by increaseing irrigation as well as fertilizers for nutrients. The increase of fertilizers and irrigation on cool season turfs during drought conditions also increases the opportunity for increased fungal activity which can destroy a new lawn. The cause and effect of lower seed rates is less moisture and fertilizer needed and the less chance of fungus and the better looking lawn in the long term.
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  #12  
Old 11-08-2005, 11:02 PM
big_country big_country is offline
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muddstooper

I am just trying to gaher some infromation and apperciate your help. 300 pounds of seed to an acre is a good rate? What is a good starter fertilzer, something like triple 19? Am sure i'll have more questions later.
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  #13  
Old 11-09-2005, 09:33 PM
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muddstopper muddstopper is offline
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A lot of people use tripple 19 as a starter fertilizer, and maybe in some areas it is, but in most areas of the country, triple 19 is not a good choice as a starter fertilizer. Tripple 29 is a high salt content fertilizer. Choose a fertilizer that is made using ammonium nitrogen instead of Urea and one that contains Sulfate of Potash as a potassium choice.
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2005, 09:45 PM
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http://www.ncagr.com/agronomi/pdffiles/hydroseed.pdf
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  #15  
Old 11-09-2005, 10:39 PM
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Planet Landscaping Planet Landscaping is offline
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Customers I like to deal with ( Million dollor homes) Expect Hydroseeding. Some even pay 3x that for sod. Our Hydroseeding price starts @ .06 a sq. for large commercial,Just spray to .16 a sq for full Machine,hand rake and spray.
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  #16  
Old 11-10-2005, 10:24 PM
nop nop is offline
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im curious to know if how many hydroseeding contractors out there also do the dirt work or just come in and shoot.i have a few landscapers who want to concentrate on landscaping and not really wanting to do seeding jobs.anyone else work with lanscape contractors or home builders.
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  #17  
Old 11-10-2005, 11:46 PM
big_country big_country is offline
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Yea, how many do the prep and seeding, if so what is your running rate? What are some good lawn grasses for kentucky, like fescues?
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  #18  
Old 11-11-2005, 06:35 PM
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muddstopper muddstopper is offline
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When I started doing hydroseeding, I was already doing the prepwork and sort of got into hydroseeding because of the shoddy work that the local hydroseeder's where doing. I figured that if they could make a living hydroseeding with their quality then I could get rich. As my company has grown, I have found that I have less and less time to do prep work simply because I am hydroseeding more and more. I still do some prep but I concentrate on the easier more profitable jobs. I base my prep pricing on a perhour basis for equipment + labor and materials. I tried giving set pricing but found that there was always some hidden something that the building contractors had buried, and it always ended up taking longer than I figured because, I ended up cleaning up someone elses mess. Now if I run into a bunch of buried trash, I just keep the clock running. I have ran into a few people that want a set price up front and wont go with my service simply because I wont give a set price, I give estimates. This doesnt hurt my feelings any because I make more hydroseeding anyways.
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  #19  
Old 11-11-2005, 10:25 PM
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T-Trim T-Trim is offline
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I never fert the new site until the grass shows. One reason any and all seeds have all they need for two weeks to grow. Second the fert you do app. on a new lawn will have some fast release in it for at less aweek then the slow release will kick in about 2 weeks after it is broken down to a usable level that plants, lawns and trees can use. Just my opinion
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  #20  
Old 11-12-2005, 10:51 PM
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muddstopper muddstopper is offline
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T-Trim brings up a good point, seed already contains everything it needs to germinate, fertilizer actually slows down germination. The use of fertilizeers is one reason that seed rates are increased, to makeup for the seed we kill by artificial means. Still, on most of the sites I seed, I almost have to use fertilizer at the time of seeding. Reason being that nobody is going to be doing any followup ferts. I have proved this to myself several times on lawns that I am responsible for followup fertilizations. I can use the same amounts of fertilizer split in two applications as I would for one single application at time of planting, and I always have better results. The lawns that are fertilized at planting are always thinner but they grow faster at first, then they seem to stop growing, the lawns with the split applications will comein thicker, grow slower and stay green longer and continue at a steady growth rate.
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