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Old 04-26-2001, 12:16 AM
Jason Pallas Jason Pallas is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Grosse Pointe. MI
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I just finished welding the third axel break in 10 days on one of our 52" Buntons. The axel is breaking at the flange plate that mounts it to the mower (solid axel all the way across). Have a couple of spare axels and just got a brand new one in. The welds on the new one are poor quality at best. I 've managed to re-man all the broken spares to be used as emergency spares
My question is - has anyone else experienced similar axel breakage problems. I'm inclined to think it may have something to do with the fact that this mower has the larger wheels on it. Instead of the 6 inch rims it's got the larger 8 inchers. Anyone out there with similar probs?
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Old 04-26-2001, 02:48 AM
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Runner Runner is offline
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I have two of the older Buntons, and both mowers have done this. I had to remove the axle flange, reset the axle, weld the back side of it, (that's where it cracked - where the axle was pressed in) and then grind the excess weld off so the flange plate would fit back flush against the mower chassis. After that, I was real gentle on curbs and stuff, and I haven't had a lick of trouble since. I think with the weld, it is stronger than it was factory.
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  #3  
Old 04-26-2001, 11:22 PM
Jason Pallas Jason Pallas is offline
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Location: Grosse Pointe. MI
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Runner - I defintely agree. I've done the same thing to all of our axles. It's sort of a bummer - in that a new axle is $50 and you still have to beef it up like that. Welding - grinding, grinding, welding etc... Mine broke at the flange - on the outside (wheel side). I've re-welded a few different ways - now I'm just waiting to see which one holds up the best.
BTW, Ever had any tranny problems with those Spicer trannies? I went through a whole batch of bad ones last summer (the best one lasted 5 weeks!). In the end, I learned how to rebuild them for about $100 in parts (lots cheaper than the $700 they want for a new one!). Buntons - they can sure be a damm headache!!!!
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Old 04-27-2001, 05:23 PM
Alan Alan is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: NW Vermont (Milton)
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I'm not familiar with the part you're talking about, so bear with me a bit here. Is this a stub axle welded to a mounting plate? Is the shaft machined? From what you're describing I'd be inclined to think that teh shaft might be a bit high carbon for hardness and there is underbead cracking which initiates the failure. Causes of that could be an incompatible weld alloy or no preheat on a joint that really needs some. Could somebody sketch out the part and where it fails and fax it to me so I could understand better? There is an electrode made by MG Alloys that I've used with good success on hard to weld steels, it might be worth a try in this application of the failure rate is so high.
  #5  
Old 04-27-2001, 11:20 PM
Jason Pallas Jason Pallas is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Grosse Pointe. MI
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Alan - it's not really a stub axle - it's a piece of 1" steel rod (about 3 - 3.5 ft long). About 10 inches from each end is a mounting plate. The plate has a hole that the axle passes through. That mounting place is then welded in place to the axel (on the inside of the mount). I think the problem is that the stress point is where the axle and mounting plate meet (and attach to the frame). In some instances the axel has just snapped off right at this point. It's tough to weld and beef up properly because the welds tend to get in the way of proper mounting. It's a real headache - but any input you have would greatly be appreciated. I'm open to anything to try to fix it so it doesn't keep breaking. Thanks.
 

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