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  #1  
Old 09-23-2005, 06:41 PM
zeiram zeiram is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Manchester CT
Posts: 8
Renovating Lawn ?'s

Looking to renovate my lawn.. PH is good, fertilized a bit during the summer.. it's a third of an acre. The grass is patchy and in rough shape..

Was looking to use a sod cutter on it, till it, use some starter fertlizer and then seed with kentucky bluegrass..

any suggestions/recommendations?

thanks!
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  #2  
Old 09-23-2005, 09:02 PM
Mower For Less Mower For Less is offline
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Location: Warren, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeiram
Looking to renovate my lawn.. PH is good, fertilized a bit during the summer.. it's a third of an acre. The grass is patchy and in rough shape..

Was looking to use a sod cutter on it, till it, use some starter fertlizer and then seed with kentucky bluegrass..

any suggestions/recommendations?

thanks!
Why sod cut and till??? Usually if you sod cut you will want to re-lay new sod, otherwise the height of the grade will be off. You could use Round-Up to kill off the existing, and then overseed. Tilling is nice if you can do it, but it is alot more labor intensive and you will have to regrade it after tilling. Also, straight KB is nice, but will take a month to germinate and may get infested with weeds in that time. I would throw some annual rye in their too to speed things along and help the KB out.

Kevin
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  #3  
Old 09-23-2005, 09:14 PM
zeiram zeiram is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mower For Less
Why sod cut and till??? Usually if you sod cut you will want to re-lay new sod, otherwise the height of the grade will be off. You could use Round-Up to kill off the existing, and then overseed. Tilling is nice if you can do it, but it is alot more labor intensive and you will have to regrade it after tilling. Also, straight KB is nice, but will take a month to germinate and may get infested with weeds in that time. I would throw some annual rye in their too to speed things along and help the KB out.

Kevin

Thanks for the quick response Kevin - Can I get away with tilling the existing grass under, or am I just churning some of the weeds back into the soil? I don't mind doing a little tilling and grading, if it'll help to aerate the soil and promote stronger growth.. Also, if I use a universal herbicide like Round-Up, how long should I wait before tilling and reseeding? I planned on hitting the local Agway/Home Depot and picking up as good quality seed as I can find.. I'll look for the KB/Rye combo with as little weed content as possible... Also, I have a shaded area in my back yard (pretty much the back 25% is under two trees...) Is it worth trying to buy a shade-tolerant grass seed and trying to get it to grow? I had someone else recommend a core-aerator over roto-tilling... any thoughts?
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  #4  
Old 09-23-2005, 09:31 PM
zeiram zeiram is offline
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Location: Manchester CT
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Hmm. Done some serious thinking. I live in CT and it's almost Oct. I think I might change my approach.. lemme know what you think:

1. (This weekend) Hit the lawn with a non-selective herbicide... Buy a pair of aerating shoes and walk around the yard to try and uncompact the soil.

2. Wait until early spring.. Walk around the yard with the aerating shoes and then hit the lawn again with the non-selective herbicide. Wait 10 days.

3. Rent a slit-seeder, seed, apply starter fertilizer and water like mad.

Better plan?
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  #5  
Old 09-23-2005, 09:54 PM
turfsurfer turfsurfer is offline
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The aerating shoes actually compact the soil more since they don't actually remove any plugs, thsy just push the soil aside to make the hole. Use a real aerator.
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  #6  
Old 09-24-2005, 01:19 AM
Mower For Less Mower For Less is offline
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Location: Warren, MI
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4. Hit the yard with roundup THIS weekend (use the pro stuff with 24 hour results).
Next Weekend Friday & Saturday: Water Really Good then Core Aerate (rent one if you have to instead of buying those silly shoes) the entire yard. Go over it two or three passes to really pull alot of cores. Do this on Saturday while the soil is still moist from the watering.
Sunday: Rent a slit seeder and overseed the entire lawn.

Water 2-3 times per day for the next month.

You should have a nice lawn just in time for winter.

Kevin
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  #7  
Old 09-24-2005, 02:00 PM
zeiram zeiram is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Manchester CT
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Pics of my lawn - How do I deal with the shaded areas?

Front Yard Left Side:



Front Yard Right Side:



Close up of grass in front yard:



Back Yard: (note line of shade toward back) (and yes, that's a cemetary.. please no "guess you don't any fertilizer" jokes

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  #8  
Old 09-24-2005, 02:23 PM
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ProMo ProMo is online now
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[QUOTE=zeiram Buy a pair of aerating shoes and walk around the yard to try and uncompact the soil.[/QUOTE
now that is funny
I would add a good organic topsoil and till it.

Last edited by ProMo; 09-24-2005 at 02:31 PM.
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  #9  
Old 09-26-2005, 01:06 PM
timturf timturf is offline
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Location: central virgina, transition, plant hardy zone 7a, and heat index zone 7
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Looks like maybe you have some k-31 in yard!

I would get a soil test from a & L labs, the s-2 test, correct the chemistry this fall and winter, apply some QUALITY FERTILIZER, no mop, get on a quality fertilizer and weed control program next year, then I would evaluate the need to overseed or re-establish the lawn, but start much sooner, I believe it's too late now, and you need to evaluate why yoiu turf density is so poor
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Timothy J Murphy Specializing in Quality Turf
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Almost 40 yrs exp., 20 as GC superintendent
Primarly work with cool season turf
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  #10  
Old 09-26-2005, 01:53 PM
nate1422 nate1422 is offline
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Location: Pottstown, PA
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Quality Fertilizer

In regards to the post about using quality fertilizer, what are some brands of fertilizer that everyone recommends. I just used Lebanon Seaboards Greenskeeper on my yard, first time using there product, spreads like a charm. Lesco seams to be a popular choice from what I have seen in other posts but I think that is somewhat due to availability.
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