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  #21  
Old 04-21-2006, 12:20 AM
OX Landworks OX Landworks is offline
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The cedar post around my house are all starting to rot out, as they are set in concrete. I saw I detail the other day of wooden post being set in a metal bracket that is anchored to concrete, it looks like this would be a good solution to post rotting out.
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  #22  
Old 04-21-2006, 12:35 AM
olderthandirt olderthandirt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grassmechanic
Interesting topic. I do landscape maintenance for a guy that installs cedar decks. The big, huge massive things that only the millionares can afford (his decks start at 15k and go up from there). Anyways, I asked him how he installs posts. He said he augers to 1 foot below frost line. Fills up to the frostline with concrete. Lets the concrete set up. Then he sets his posts on the concrete "pad" in the bottom of the hole and then backfills with sand and tamps it firmly. No additional concrete. Interesting.......
What he's doing is building the footer for the post to sit on and its the correct way to do it. A fence should be done the same way but its hard to pack the soil tight around the post so it can be erected quickly. At my house I built the footers and never cemented a post and have had no problem with frost heave in yrs. Ask any horse guy how many of his pasture fences are cemented and he'll tell you the corners, contractors got the idea that every post needed crete around it to make it sturdy. Just another idea that most people think has to be done because thats how they seen it done.
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  #23  
Old 04-21-2006, 04:48 PM
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Grassmechanic Grassmechanic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderthandirt
What he's doing is building the footer for the post to sit on and its the correct way to do it. A fence should be done the same way but its hard to pack the soil tight around the post so it can be erected quickly. At my house I built the footers and never cemented a post and have had no problem with frost heave in yrs. Ask any horse guy how many of his pasture fences are cemented and he'll tell you the corners, contractors got the idea that every post needed crete around it to make it sturdy. Just another idea that most people think has to be done because thats how they seen it done.
I know for a fact that his decks are solid. He has a party every year. There are at least 40 people on his deck at any given time. You can never feel it move. Just like you were on a concrete patio. Very solid. he also said the it never frost heaves, either. If I ever build a deck, I'm going to try his method.
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  #24  
Old 08-06-2007, 11:46 AM
fall46 fall46 is offline
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Old post but wanted to bring it back to life....Does anyone use gravel 3/4 clean to backfill around cedar fence posts? Seems o be 2 schools of thought concrete or gravel when setting your posts? I like thd idea of gravel 3/4 of the way up and then a section of concrete

Also how far should the posts be setback from a reataining wall..its apprx 3.5 in height (And yes it has @ least of 12 free draining gravel behind It !!!!!)
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2007, 05:23 PM
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Grn Mtn Grn Mtn is offline
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Depends on the type of fence and type of wood. Big panels definately benifit from concrete. Dry packing it in in a sandy soil is not a good idea, maybe in a rocky or heavy soil, but I saw 30' of fence blow over (and was put in by deck/fence contractor), since then I have always staked my posts first and poured in wet. UNLESS I am using cedar then I just pack in lifts.
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  #26  
Old 08-06-2007, 05:31 PM
fall46 fall46 is offline
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They are 6 x 8 cedar panels with lattice top.....

"UNLESS I am using cedar then I just pack in lifts"

So you use gravel and pack in lifts when dealing with cedar?
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  #27  
Old 08-06-2007, 10:23 PM
silverscapes silverscapes is offline
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pour it dry and walk away when your done you can level and eye up the fence put it to grade what ever don't mix with water ........
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  #28  
Old 08-07-2007, 11:00 AM
fall46 fall46 is offline
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How far are people setting back posts from retaining walls
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  #29  
Old 08-07-2007, 01:26 PM
SPENCER HUNTER SPENCER HUNTER is offline
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Thumbs up setting posts

when i set post i use the fast setting kind concrete i usally rent a auger to dig the holes providing if there is more than 10 to dig i usally dig them by my self if there is less than 10,, after hole is dug i put 2inches of loose gravel in the bottom of the hole to help drain water away from the bottom of the post to keep it from rotting then i cut the top of the post as in having pointed top or just install some caps on the post then goes in thepost then dry concrete,,while i'm pouring in,, i have someone to hold it plumb,,,, then wet it with water,, with a trowel,, i make a hill with concrete up against the post so when it rains it will runaway from the post to help prevent water damage
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  #30  
Old 08-07-2007, 05:52 PM
silverscapes silverscapes is offline
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if your worrying about rot on a wooden post pour DRY cement in hole fill half way then a shovel or two of regular dirt what ever you dug out then finish filling hole with dry cement.... loose gravel in bottom is point less cause the water will not make it down to the bottom of post
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