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  #11  
Old 05-17-2006, 08:36 AM
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DanaMac DanaMac is online now
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It's not the valve I'm concerned with. It's the manifold crosses. If they are tees, i can cut the tees apart, unscrew them from the valve, screw new ones into the valve, and glue back together. WITHOUT DIGGING UP THE BOX. Did one yesterday, 4 valves, 1.25 hours including drivetime.
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  #12  
Old 05-17-2006, 08:50 AM
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Manifold fitting breakage has also been a non-issue since I eliminated all female threads on the PVC. Hmmmm, now you got me thinking, if I used Dura 3/4" slip crosses (they nest) and slip valves, I might take a crowded valve box to a whole new level.
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  #13  
Old 05-17-2006, 12:12 PM
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bicmudpuppy bicmudpuppy is offline
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I never have been a manifold type, but If they are done properly, it works. Kinking poly is an experience thing. It is tempered by how industrious I don't feel at the time. For repair (T&M) work, those expanding poly couplings work great. Installs, I'll stick to saddles for heads and larger holes at the valve so it all goes together right. Also, why snap the poly when you can wait and snap the glue joint instead? And I'll take a clean manifold like boot's pic vs a few I have some jerk installed with the 850 on the bottom and the valves stacked going up the tap box. GRRRRRRRRR
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  #14  
Old 05-17-2006, 10:57 PM
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Here's a question Boots... By doing a manifold like that, what exactly are you saving? All I can think is about $9 for a second valve box.

However, if anything goes haywire, its going to cost a lot more than $9.
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  #15  
Old 05-17-2006, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Water
Here's a question Boots... By doing a manifold like that, what exactly are you saving? All I can think is about $9 for a second valve box.

However, if anything goes haywire, its going to cost a lot more than $9.
Two extra valve boxes, sometimes, if there's ten or more valves in the box, and their cost, and the time associated in digging them. Knock wood again but the valves and manifolds aren't an issue. Repair access is, and that is no different than if there were only three valves in the box. I can think of one genuine drawback to a crowded valve box, and that's when some rodent decides to move in, and fills the valve box up to the lid. That's where that Suck Tube comes in handy to clean it out.
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  #16  
Old 05-18-2006, 12:20 AM
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Dirt Boy Dirt Boy is offline
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Yes, I am referring to the downside of the valves. I guess I should just dig a bigger hole!
Thanks guys/gals?, I like reading your comments, seeing pic's, etc. I am learning a lot just reading your comments, on all the threads.

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  #17  
Old 05-18-2006, 07:07 AM
SprinklerGuy SprinklerGuy is offline
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Where are you buying valve boxes for $9 would be my question?????

Cheapest I am getting is about 15 for NDS boxes...
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  #18  
Old 05-18-2006, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprinklerGuy
Where are you buying valve boxes for $9 would be my question?????

Cheapest I am getting is about 15 for NDS boxes...
We use 10x12 Carson boxes instead of the standard 16" box.
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  #19  
Old 05-18-2006, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Water
We use 10x12 Carson boxes instead of the standard 16" box.
Boots says get rid of them. He can't manifold as many valves in the smaller boxes.
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  #20  
Old 05-18-2006, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpHaze
Boots says get rid of them. He can't manifold as many valves in the smaller boxes.
I mostly avoid the corner-cutting valve boxes because you can't place extensions atop them. This is where Ametek, with their 3 inch extensions, has a niche. By the way, I mentioned Dura fittings for a more compact manifold. Here's one example, destined for a round valve box. Note the Dura tee glued into standard tees.
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