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  #51  
Old 05-20-2006, 09:27 AM
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DanaMac DanaMac is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots
No question that a broken manifold is about the toughest repair going, but my installations can be winterized, even if no one's home and the inside supply valve is still open, and with the outdoor drain strapped open, water entering expensive territory is a thing that doesn't happen. Any homeowner that wants to defeat the safeguards will deserve what they get. One important regional difference here is that the spring weather breaks much more predictably, and freezeups aren't a factor when a homeowner waits for the proper time to turn on the water.
But how can the homeowner drain the manifold or mainline without a drain? That in itself will save a ton of headaches if they don't have it blown out. Maybe I'm missing how else the water can exit the manifold. Just opening the bleeded screws can't possibly get all the water out can it?

I know you're in NYC, but do you not get enough of a frost line there?
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  #52  
Old 05-20-2006, 09:32 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is online now
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I'll winterize my own installations, even if I don't get a call from the new homeowner. There is no outdoor water remaining to be concerned with.
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  #53  
Old 05-20-2006, 09:38 AM
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DanaMac DanaMac is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots
I'll winterize my own installations, even if I don't get a call from the new homeowner. There is no outdoor water remaining to be concerned with.
So you'll winterize the system even if they don't ask you to, and then bill them even if they aren't expecting it? I'm not trying to cause any problem here. Just trying to figure out why no mainline drain to help prevent major damage if they don't blow it out.
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  #54  
Old 05-20-2006, 09:52 AM
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And where would this mainline drain be located, and why would any warm-weather transplant be looking for one? It's the service that keeps the system undamaged. It isn't too much of a burden to do a few winterizings for unknown new owners, and usually they are very grateful to have dodged the ice bullet.
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  #55  
Old 05-20-2006, 09:53 AM
greenhorn123 greenhorn123 is offline
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lol, i guess you dont know what you dont know.

i,ve installed over 1,000 myself and 90% of the companies do it here in new england. i worked for a company that had over 2,500 customers and about 2,000 were thier own installs over the last 10 years.

all used poly 1" poly pipe from the back flow out, but now you knuckle heads will tell me it doesnt work?

i better start calling the hunreds of thousands of people here that thier mainline is gonna blow soon. lol
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  #56  
Old 05-20-2006, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn123
lol, i guess you dont know what you dont know.

i,ve installed over 1,000 myself and 90% of the companies do it here in new england. i worked for a company that had over 2,500 customers and about 2,000 were thier own installs over the last 10 years.

all used poly 1" poly pipe from the back flow out, but now you knuckle heads will tell me it doesnt work?

i better start calling the hunreds of thousands of people here that thier mainline is gonna blow soon. lol
Poly mainline I feel is fine. The manifold set up with the valves, IMO, is not. So you have insert tees as manifold tees? With poly in between them?
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  #57  
Old 05-20-2006, 10:13 AM
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There is poly pipe, and there is poly pipe. I pull utility pipe for my installs, and never use it for constant-pressure use. If I did, and had problems, the manufacturers would inform me that non-NSF pipe is not warranted for constant-pressure applications. I'll never personally know what track record the constant-pressure use of non-NSF pipe has, because I just won't go there.

Above ground use of NSF poly isn't inherently unreliable, but it is less durable than other materials. And it also has less bursting-strength headroom than PVC or copper. With a static pressure over 100 psi, I could see water hammer doing some damage to mainline poly.
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  #58  
Old 05-20-2006, 10:20 AM
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PurpHaze PurpHaze is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots
There is poly pipe, and there is poly pipe.
Yup... prolly the reason we have one 4" poly main and another one that is 3". However these are HDPE.
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  #59  
Old 05-20-2006, 06:45 PM
greenhorn123 greenhorn123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanaMac
Poly mainline I feel is fine. The manifold set up with the valves, IMO, is not. So you have insert tees as manifold tees? With poly in between them?
yup and thats how most do it here. the valve will have to be changed before that breaks, bursts, leak or whatever you think is gonna happen. then you can just cut the poly out change the valve put a new piece in and clamp it.
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  #60  
Old 05-20-2006, 07:03 PM
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Dirty Water Dirty Water is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn123
yup and thats how most do it here. the valve will have to be changed before that breaks, bursts, leak or whatever you think is gonna happen. then you can just cut the poly out change the valve put a new piece in and clamp it.
Heh, you have never seen water hammer blow out a insert fitting?

I built two real nice PVC manifolds this morning, I wish I still had my digital camera.
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