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  #11  
Old 06-04-2006, 12:53 PM
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ffemt1271 ffemt1271 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2003
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the oiler is adjustable, i went out and looked at mine before making my post
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2006, 02:23 PM
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lawnmaniac883 lawnmaniac883 is offline
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My bad then.
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2006, 12:29 AM
Jim@MilkyWay Jim@MilkyWay is offline
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You can find a lot of damage of this nature on anything by close visual inspection, but you have to think about the physics behind it.
Do you know how to check your bar for straight and true geometry? Remove chain and bar and set saw aside. Then hold bar up, very close to your eye with long axis parallel to you at eye level. Sight along entire length of bar, just over the "slot" in bar where chain guide teeth (a little help with terminology here?) ride. You can see if the bar is warped or even bent, much like a stick of warped 2X4 lumber, but on a somewhat smaller scale. Now, the next step is important, especially since your chain came out/off the bar/saw under operation. I phrase it that way because, something had to give for the chain to escape the bar. Find a "feeler gage", I use a piece of nylon wire tie, with a thickness ( _not_width ) such that the tie fits snugly into the slot of the bar. The gap should be the same all the way round the bar from one end to the other, on top and bottom. Does this make any sense at all? I can visualize what eye am talking about better than I can express it. If you find where the slot has been spread, then set bar on a firm surface and using an old stainless feeler gage you can sacrifice and a hammer, "adjust" the gap where necessary. You can also support the bar on each side of a warp then smack-with-finesse, preferably with a 12oz or so nylon mallet, at the point of the outside radius of the warp, if present, in the bar to help straighten it. Whew!
Hope this helps.
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