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  #11  
Old 06-04-2006, 11:55 AM
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PurpHaze PurpHaze is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfrank
I tried changing the timer/controller but still same problem.
Seems he already tried that.
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  #12  
Old 06-04-2006, 12:03 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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Ahh. Since I didn't read that turning on zone 5 made zone 3 operate, too, I was thinking maybe a controller problem, although most solid-state controller problems have the thing just dying, instead of acting up.
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  #13  
Old 06-04-2006, 12:33 PM
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PurpHaze PurpHaze is offline
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Controller problems are weird. I think I've mentioned before that we encountered an Irritrol MC Plus problem on six of our sites shortly after Toro bought that company. Seems they decided to skimp on the amount of solder they used on the back of the terminal boards. This allowed a connection pin to break loose and float freely within the solder. We ended up having to move the affected zones' control wires to different spots on the terminal board thus creating blank stations. Sometimes a connection would be made and other times no connection would occur. This meant that sometimes a zone would fire while other times it would not.

We discovered the problem cause when I was standing at a controller that used the MV to connect to a booster pump and accidently wiggled the wire. My partner got ahold of me on the radio and indicated that the booster was firing on and off as I wiggled the wire. We removed the terminal board and noted the obvious lack of solder and the floating pin by using a 20X loop. We took the board out and added solder to each pin which took care of the problem. We then examined all our problematic controllers and added solder which solved their problems.

Of course I reported the problem to Irritrol/Toro and they denied any problems. However, as we bought new controllers after this we noted that the solder had been beefed up again as it was prior to Toro's involvement.
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  #14  
Old 06-04-2006, 12:59 PM
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Critical Care Critical Care is offline
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You mean you changed the programming or the whole controller. If you haven't changed the entire controller then I'd start there by disconnecting the wires off of zones 3 and 5 and then manually turn on one of those zones. You obviously should only have voltage going to the one you've turned on, not the other one. But... if you've replace the controller, then it surely must be downstream.
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  #15  
Old 06-04-2006, 02:51 PM
dfrank dfrank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Critical Care
You mean you changed the programming or the whole controller. If you haven't changed the entire controller then I'd start there by disconnecting the wires off of zones 3 and 5 and then manually turn on one of those zones. You obviously should only have voltage going to the one you've turned on, not the other one. But... if you've replace the controller, then it surely must be downstream.
Yes i changed the entire controller.
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  #16  
Old 06-04-2006, 04:15 PM
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sheshovel sheshovel is offline
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Well then it's wired up wrong dear.
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  #17  
Old 06-07-2006, 02:55 PM
Scott's Scott's is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpHaze
If that were the case whichever valve is attached to the MV terminal will come on with every other valve on the system. I.E.... If #3 was wired to the MV then when zone 1 came on you'd have 1/3 on simultaneously, then 2/3, then 3/3 (it would actually be a different zone 3 but you'd have two firing at same time), 4/3, etc. until all zones are through watering. You'd have a very flooded zone by the end of it all.
Thats correct,,, until the wiring at a junction has been messed with, This fellow I went behind re-wired the system while being on crack. zones 1 and 2 came on together all the time. Since the wiring had been re arranged thats all that would come on,,,still worth a shot to check it, I have seen it happen.
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  #18  
Old 06-07-2006, 05:58 PM
WalkGood WalkGood is offline
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Heavy wire

Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpHaze
I've never seen this happen. Of course we use solid strand 14AWG with a heavy insulator instead of dinky multi-strand.
14 gauge wire? That is the same gauge as used with 120volt/15amp inside the house wiring for outlets and lights! Bet it's kinda pricey these days.
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  #19  
Old 06-07-2006, 08:38 PM
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Dirty Water Dirty Water is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalkGood
14 gauge wire? That is the same gauge as used with 120volt/15amp inside the house wiring for outlets and lights! Bet it's kinda pricey these days.
14 Gauge UF is still commonly used in irrigation,and a lot of LA spec it out on commercial jobs.

Personally, 18 guage Multistrand will work in 99.9% of the situations, and is so much quicker and easier to use.
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2006, 07:24 AM
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PurpHaze PurpHaze is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalkGood
14 gauge wire? That is the same gauge as used with 120volt/15amp inside the house wiring for outlets and lights! Bet it's kinda pricey these days.
We buy it by the 2500' roll. It was running us 4 cents a foot last time I purchased it but bet it's doubled by the time I buy again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Water
Personally, 18 guage Multistrand will work in 99.9% of the situations, and is so much quicker and easier to use.
The gophers and squirrels in our area would chew through it easily thinking it was a spaghetti dinner. Most of our gopher chews are in the valve boxes and it's the smaller gauge solenoid wire they chew, not the 14 gauge.
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