We just received our new mag-8000 have a few questions

[syzer]

We are using it to sharpen some blades, I think I am doing something wrong =). I am having a hard time getting blades sharp in 10 minutes let alone 30 secs =). There is no doubt something is going on, but I don't know what. I am mechanically inclined, and have a another high end sharpener for all my my woodworking chisels, knives etc so I am familiar with the equipment.

I am following the directions in the manual, but they seem somewhat vague. How do you go about handling blades with gouges in them, rough edges etc? Seems after about 100 passes I still have a flat edge.

As far as my curvy hustler mulching blades, fuhgettabatit

Pointers are welcome! Thanks.

[Magna-Matic]

Hello Chris,

To best answer all your questions, I'll give you a call either 8/30 or 8/31 to go over some tips and info about the use of the MAG-8000.

Thank you,

[pugs]

Originally Posted by syzer

I am following the directions in the manual, but they seem somewhat vague. How do you go about handling blades with gouges in them, rough edges etc? Seems after about 100 passes I still have a flat edge.

Thats alot of passes. I think you are trying to sharpen some blades that should be put in the scrap pile. If they have deep dents/dings in them you are not going to sharpen that out...or you will be investing in lots of grinding wheels. You can either sharpen whats left...hopefully the outer inch is still pretty good...Or again, toss it in the iron pile and get new blades.

[CC-XG2703-60]

Originally Posted by syzer

We are using it to sharpen some blades, I think I am doing something wrong =). I am having a hard time getting blades sharp in 10 minutes let alone 30 secs =). There is no doubt something is going on, but I don't know what. I am mechanically inclined, and have a another high end sharpener for all my my woodworking chisels, knives etc so I am familiar with the equipment.

I am following the directions in the manual, but they seem somewhat vague. How do you go about handling blades with gouges in them, rough edges etc? Seems after about 100 passes I still have a flat edge.

As far as my curvy hustler mulching blades, fuhgettabatit

Pointers are welcome! Thanks.

I have the MagnaMatic 9000 and it has the same problem. It comes from the wear on the underside of the blade,also nicks in the cutting edge. Who doesn't hit things while mowing? I quit trying to geyt a razor sharp edge on the 2 inches or so at the blade tip and just go with a little flat edge there.

[Magna-Matic]

Hello,

Keep in mind you do not want a razor edge. Think of how the edge of the lawn mower blade is, when it is new.

The sharpening of a lawn mower blade is the maintenance of the proper blade angle, and bringing the TIP back from the worn (rounded corner).

You will notice a worn lawn mower blade's tip becomes a radius after approx 10 machine hours. When sharpening the blade you want to bring that TIP back to an approx 90 degree corner/tip. Think of this as the cutting tooth. This is why the first 2 inches of the blade are the most critical.

A good example - or alternate way to think of a lawn mower blade is to - visualize a lawn mower blade as a circular saw blade with only 2 teeth. Notice circlular saw blades that have more or less teeth are determined by the density of the material you are cutting (generally).

NICKS -

Of course nicks in the edge are unavoidable. Nicks in the first 2 inches should be removed by sharpening the edge back.

Nicks past the first 2 inches are less critical that they be completely removed.

If you have burrs on the underside of the blade that are very large from the nicks, they should be deburred before sharpening. This will improve the slide against the worktable and extend the life of the worktable of the sharpener.

I invite you all to review our latest instruction manuals online.
http://www.magna-matic.com/support/p...tructions.html

As always feel free to post or call us for further explaination or for any other questions as well.

8000-328-1110

Thank you,

[mrsteve]

I'm in the market for a blade sharpener but the more I read the more I'm not sure about which one. The mag 8000 and 9000 appear to be good machines, but if I spend over a thousand (mag-8000), I don't want to hear anything negative. At the same time I don't want to spend half that for a piece of crap. I guess I want to hear from someone who has one that they are thrilled with, not just the salesman (no offense to the Mag man). Any help is appreciated.

[MOW PRO LAWN SERVICE]

I get em razor sharp a few strokes is all it takes.

[Magna-Matic]

Mr Steve,

Please call or email me, and I can get you a reference list - they are unscreened references.

Thank you,

[gene gls]

Originally Posted by syzer

We are using it to sharpen some blades, I think I am doing something wrong =). I am having a hard time getting blades sharp in 10 minutes let alone 30 secs =). There is no doubt something is going on, but I don't know what. I am mechanically inclined, and have a another high end sharpener for all my my woodworking chisels, knives etc so I am familiar with the equipment.

I am following the directions in the manual, but they seem somewhat vague. How do you go about handling blades with gouges in them, rough edges etc? Seems after about 100 passes I still have a flat edge.

As far as my curvy hustler mulching blades, fuhgettabatit

Pointers are welcome! Thanks.

For blades with heavy use, nicks and bad spots. Its faster and easyier to grind the cutting edge flat on a bench grinder. Then proceed to grind a new angle and edge with your blade grinder. The guys that say they can grind a blade in 30 sec are grinding blades that are not very dull.

[Magna-Matic]

Hello All,

The 60 sec sharpening is based off of 21" long commercial blade 1/4" thick with 20 machine hours in imperfect conditions (i.e. the blade has nicks etc).

Landscapers and lawn care pros should be in the 10 machine hour sharpening/balancing service interval for their blades.