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  #11  
Old 10-08-2006, 11:43 AM
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Dirty Water Dirty Water is offline
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Ed, Those are risers. THe only people in my town that use them are hacks and homeowners...Sad to see that is "standard" in your area

I like your idea using street el's, especially with these boxes.

You can get 1" slip by thread steet els to simplify the connection greatly.
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  #12  
Old 10-08-2006, 11:48 AM
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PurpHaze PurpHaze is offline
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Ed,

Go to this Rain Bird URL. They show their various boxes. They refer to their 6" deep boxes as "extensions". Other manufacturers refer to them as "riser" boxes, "stubby" boxes, etc.

http://www.rainbird.com/landscape/pr...box_models.htm
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  #13  
Old 10-08-2006, 12:06 PM
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You can stack two extensions and get the depth of a standard foot-deep valve box (don't build eight-valve-manifolds without them!) ~ Even though shallow boxes have become far too common (punk kids can't dig a hole?) that doesn't mean you have to follow suit.
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  #14  
Old 10-08-2006, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots
You can stack two extensions and get the depth of a standard foot-deep valve box (don't build eight-valve-manifolds without them!) ~ Even though shallow boxes have become far too common (punk kids can't dig a hole?) that doesn't mean you have to follow suit.
The extensions we get sit directly ontop of the box and don't nest like stacking two boxes does.

Which is irritating, because you have to tamp the ground very tight to keep the riser from pulling off the box when you remove the lid. Especially when some landscaper adds 6" of mulch to a bed, so you have to add a riser,and the mulch won't hold the riser on.
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  #15  
Old 10-08-2006, 12:19 PM
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I've thought about drilling holes in the extension and existing box, then using nylon cable ties to keep the extension attached to the existing box. You could also just screw them together.
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  #16  
Old 10-08-2006, 12:22 PM
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PurpHaze PurpHaze is offline
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Ed,

Go here: http://www.hunterindustries.com/Reso...n_details.html

There are several AutoCAD drawings that you can download.

If you're going to raise your valves higher than the main line then you can always turn the "main line tees" upright which will save a few fittings since you're using globe configuration on your valves.
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  #17  
Old 10-08-2006, 12:23 PM
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Seeing as an extension cost almost as much as a regular box, I typically just stack two fullsize boxes and avoid the hassle.
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  #18  
Old 10-08-2006, 12:28 PM
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PurpHaze PurpHaze is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Water
The extensions we get sit directly ontop of the box and don't nest like stacking two boxes does.

Which is irritating, because you have to tamp the ground very tight to keep the riser from pulling off the box when you remove the lid. Especially when some landscaper adds 6" of mulch to a bed, so you have to add a riser,and the mulch won't hold the riser on.
Are you saying that you run into stubbies that need a stubby put on top to clear the mulch? I think if this were the case I'd remove the original stubby and just install a standard. T&M...
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  #19  
Old 10-08-2006, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurpHaze
Are you saying that you run into stubbies that need a stubby put on top to clear the mulch? I think if this were the case I'd remove the original stubby and just install a standard. T&M...
No, a standard that needed a "stubby".
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  #20  
Old 10-08-2006, 01:14 PM
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The idea of stacking the valve box extensions was for the OP, who might have trouble getting an exchange or refund. Then, one valve-box body might be purchased, to go with the leftover lid. Again, your mileage may vary. With Ametek boxes, you can buy bodies and covers separately, should you want.

I thought Florida soil was all sandy and all. Not much effort needed to dig a foot-deep hole.
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