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  #61  
Old 07-14-2014, 08:51 AM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriot Services View Post
Horsecrap! Anytime I hear cam failure after a rebuild two things come to mind. Mixed up lifters or lack of assembly lube.
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Yeh I agree. Fram filters are known for failing as well
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  #62  
Old 07-14-2014, 10:05 AM
inHaliburton inHaliburton is offline
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I can guarantee you that had nothing to do with switching from synthetic to dyno. It was a coincidence
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Yup.
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  #63  
Old 07-14-2014, 08:19 PM
bigmower1 bigmower1 is offline
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What is dyno oil, is it synthetic, I never heard of it. If you use synthetic and switch back over to regular oil, it will most certainly damage you engine, possibly destroy it. Now when I re-assemble engines, I most certainly use assembly lube, on the cam the lifters even the rods, I use different lube for the piston rod bearings. I have rebuilt countless engines, I mark carefully every rod and lifter, I even use two marked out boxes for one and two, have holes in them for the lifters and the rods, so they do not ever drop, and inspect everything very carefully. The motor that got damaged from switching from synthetic oil back to regular oil I rebuilt and it seems to be fine now, I had to buy a new cam, the lobes were worn down and new lifters, and rods, The bearings had some slight blemishes on them, but I felt that they would be okay. Luckily when the engine started to loose power and and was hard to start, my friend immediately told me and the damage was not too bad, but the motor has some hurting on it. I put back in it one third quart of Duralube, and then 10w30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil, the high mileage type. So far it seems to be okay, he says, but I told him we will see in a couple hundred hours.
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  #64  
Old 07-14-2014, 08:29 PM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is online now
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Dyno oil is regular oil.

It's simply not possible for an engine failure between switching oils. You're still putting an oil in it.

Synthetics are just stabilier and handle heat better. Switching between oils isn't going to do anything that can result in metal to metal problems in your engine.

It's just not possible
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  #65  
Old 07-14-2014, 08:33 PM
inHaliburton inHaliburton is offline
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"Dyno" oil is non-synthetic, out-of-the-ground oil. Non-renewable. The kind we are running out of.
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  #66  
Old 07-14-2014, 08:44 PM
bigmower1 bigmower1 is offline
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Well I talked to someone about it, and he told me that actually you can not switch back from full synthetic oil to regular oil because of the molecules, they conflict in some way. I asked him how about blended oil, you know synthetic oil and regular blended, and he said that blended oil you can switch back to regular oil, but why risk it. This is what he told me, he said that he called Mobil and asked. I have never known him to lie to me. He also told me that they have been using synthetic oil for many years in the military before it came out. Especially in turbine engines, which get really hot, When I change the oil, it is not even broken down, it looks good except it gets dirty, and turns a little blackish brown, but never tar black. I bet if I just change the filter it would be fine re use, but I change it anyway.
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  #67  
Old 07-14-2014, 10:32 PM
inHaliburton inHaliburton is offline
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This info should be available on bob is the oil guy website. To me, it doesn't make sense not being able to switch back to dino oil. I did it many times over the 7 years I had my JD 737 mower with a Kawi engine.
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  #68  
Old 07-15-2014, 06:29 AM
bigmower1 bigmower1 is offline
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Dino oil must also be synthetic also, I never even heard of Dino oil, where is it sold at.
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  #69  
Old 07-15-2014, 07:02 AM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is online now
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Originally Posted by bigmower1 View Post
Dino oil must also be synthetic also, I never even heard of Dino oil, where is it sold at.
It's standard oil man. Just not synthetic

It's what everyone used before synthetic
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  #70  
Old 07-15-2014, 07:08 AM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmower1 View Post
What is dyno oil, is it synthetic, I never heard of it. If you use synthetic and switch back over to regular oil, it will most certainly damage you engine, possibly destroy it. Now when I re-assemble engines, I most certainly use assembly lube, on the cam the lifters even the rods, I use different lube for the piston rod bearings. I have rebuilt countless engines, I mark carefully every rod and lifter, I even use two marked out boxes for one and two, have holes in them for the lifters and the rods, so they do not ever drop, and inspect everything very carefully. The motor that got damaged from switching from synthetic oil back to regular oil I rebuilt and it seems to be fine now, I had to buy a new cam, the lobes were worn down and new lifters, and rods, The bearings had some slight blemishes on them, but I felt that they would be okay. Luckily when the engine started to loose power and and was hard to start, my friend immediately told me and the damage was not too bad, but the motor has some hurting on it. I put back in it one third quart of Duralube, and then 10w30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil, the high mileage type. So far it seems to be okay, he says, but I told him we will see in a couple hundred hours.
1.rounded cam lobes are an installation issue. Period.

2.Duralube is snake oil additive that is not a magic mechanic in a bottle. Nothing should ever be added to oil except more of the same oil. Those shelves full of oil and fuel additives are for parts store profit and nothing more.
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