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  #71  
Old 07-15-2014, 12:44 PM
inHaliburton inHaliburton is offline
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If it's about oil, it's on here somewhere...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
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  #72  
Old 07-15-2014, 02:03 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is online now
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Funny how a good number of us learned about things like oil long before this interweb craze and engines were holding up just fine.
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  #73  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:05 PM
bigmower1 bigmower1 is offline
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Nonsense, the motor has not been taken apart for over two years, and always ran on Mobil one, he was told to switch back to regular oil, and in about two weeks, I do not know how much time on the motor it took to break down, but the lobes were worn down pretty bad and the lifters were schorched also. I heard of this kind of thing happening before. Sometimes people buy used mowers and they did not know that the mower had synthetic oil in it, and used regular and the motor broke, and did the same thing with the cam wearing. It can even happen in car engines. I am not a sales man for Mobil 1, but I have used it ever since it came out and my friend turned me onto it because he was in the military and he told me that they use synthetic oil, and he said it is the best stuff. You know even when I change the oil, which I only do twice a year, it still looks good, just a little black, because of dirt, which is normal. My mower engines, especially the Kohler 25 hp engines have over 4000, 0r 5000 hours, my Toro one which is fifteen years old has well over 6000 hours, easily. I rebuilt every one of these engines, some I did not have too, but I did anyway. and they were perfectly clean and smooth inside, like brand new. The head gaskets go sometimes, which is normal, and when I change them, I inspect the engine. I always change the seals also, like the valve seals, and the crank seals, etc., because after I rebuid the engine, it is not going to break for a long time, and I do not want the seals to go bad, especially the one behind the alternator. So this is my routiene, and I only add the Duralube in the summer when I change the oil again, because I put the 15w 50 in it and the Duralube I think kind of keeps it thinner when the engine is cool. I do not even think it is necessary to use 15w 50, but it is hotter out and the oil will be okay to use and when it gets cooler out, the oil is still okay to use because it is broken in well enough.
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  #74  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:09 PM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is online now
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I don't think you realize it's not possible for this to happen.

It doesn't happen in cars either.

10 years ago Mobil one was top teir. They used a different additive than the rest. A few years ago they switched back to what everyone else is using, but kept the price the same.

Amsoil and purple power are both top tier.
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  #75  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:19 PM
bigmower1 bigmower1 is offline
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I just went on the Dyno oil site, and it is actually Mobil 1, check it out if you do not believe me. Perhaps I am on the wrong site, maybe someone can give me the correct one then, it said Dino oil. Also I left a message and a technical support person will call me back, because I am very curious. You know, I did hear that Mobil one changed their addatives in their regular Mobil one oil, but they also have Mobil 1 high millage oil,it has a gold cap on it, which is supposed to be the same as the origional oil and cost a little more.
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  #76  
Old 07-15-2014, 08:28 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is online now
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I am so glad I know how to repair my own equipment and was taught by a professional." A box of hammers does not make a mechanic". My condolences to you giuys that have to deal with "those" shops.
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  #77  
Old 07-15-2014, 09:00 PM
bigmower1 bigmower1 is offline
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Are you referring to me? I am as professioal as they come, and have been doing this for over 30 years. I read shop manuals, buy or even make special tools, and if I am not sure about something, I read and learn. I can repair and fix anything, it can be a box of parts and I will figure it out, and believe me I have had pleanty of them, and fix it fast and perfectly, no matter what is wrong, as long it is cost effective. I have even fixed machienes that the so called professional shops could not fix, many times. I even bought engines from shops that they said were for parts, and fixed them and either sold them or use them still today, and have put many hours on them. I still use some of their so called trash that they threw out today, and that was over twenty years ago for some of the stuff. So, I do not think you are referring to me, are you? But I do not do this for a living, I guess kind of like a hobby, because I do not charge really much and do it for free sometimes, but people sometimes force me to take money for fixing their stuff and I learned to take it or they will be insulted, sometimes they want to give me to much and I actually tell them I will not take it, because it is too much. One can make a good living living fixing these things, and I can do it all, it is not really all that complicated.
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  #78  
Old 07-16-2014, 05:38 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is online now
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I didn't mention anybodys name. The misinformation on this thread is the result of people being lead down a clever marketing path. While there have been significant advances in the field of petro chemicals there still does not exist a magic potion for restoring worn components. Oils have to adhere to ratings regardless of maker. Engine makers specify the optimum rated oil that will work in their products. deviating from these recommendations is what leads to premature failure and shortened lifespan.


Glossary

1. Dyno Oil is a distributor of oil products from many brands.

2. Dino Oil is slang for non synthetic natural, from the ground refined crude oil.

3. Synthetic Oil is made in a lab by creating special molecules from various chemicals and provides the highest level of protection because they are engineered that way.

4. Syntheic blend is a mix by the factory of Dino and Synthetic to enhance the properties of the Dino oil without the cost.

5. High Mileage is a marketing tool usually with additives to swell seals and gaskets and give you the impression your going to get thousands of extra miles from your engines. Also at a premium cost.

Last edited by Patriot Services; 07-16-2014 at 05:47 PM.
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  #79  
Old 07-16-2014, 10:34 PM
bigmower1 bigmower1 is offline
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I did not say that synthetic oil restores worn components, but it does prevent them from wearing better than regular oil, that is for sure, actually if your engine is really worn, it is too late to put the synthetic oil in it because it will probably leak out throught the seals. You should totally rebuild the engine first, change all the seals, anything that seems to be worn, change the rings etc. When you first rebuild the engine that had regular oil in it, use regular first, after that use the synthetic oil and it will run for long time. If you had synthetic oil in it, do not use regular oil, just use the 10w 30 synthetic oil. Also if you any of you ever buy a used machiene, ask what kind of oil they used, because you can not put regular oil back in an engine that has synthetic oil. About the high milage oil, it think it says up to 15000 miles, well that is what I have been using in my 1994 Ford and I change it at 15000 miles or even more, and the engine still runs perfect, the only problem is the rest of the truck is falling apart, this is a common problem when using the synthetic oil, because the engine last longer than the rest of the machiene.
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  #80  
Old 07-16-2014, 10:44 PM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is online now
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Man you're grossly misinformed. Head over to the bobistheoilguy website and start reading
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