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  #11  
Old 09-06-2007, 01:02 AM
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easycareacres easycareacres is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Qld Australia
Posts: 368
Try engaging with revs down. For $6 bucks a belt sounds dam cheap to me. Whats gunna happen when one needs a spindle or tye etc. Maybe you should expect to put money aside for working parts.
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2007, 04:25 PM
topsites topsites is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 21,677
It's not the rubber per se that gives out on the gear driven belts, really no agricultural or industrial belts have a real problem there...
It's always the threads that separate, once they separate there's nothing doing, most of my drive belts never actually 'break' but they just get weaker and weaker and one day I feel a tiny snap and that's it (but the belt is still all one piece, you really can't even tell by looking at it). You know it thou, the Wb will not move if no further clue exists

One thing that has helped is learning how hard to push those belts, stepping off the velke at crucial moments helps considerably... I remember when I'd get 6-12 months out of a belt so I suppose this comes with experience but I believe my '05 Toro is still running the originals it came with, even the older '98 I just don't go through them like I used to, don't push it so hard but learn its limits and work within those limits appears to be the key to making them last longer, and I mean a lot longer.

Weather might not help, I like to at least cover my machines with a tarp, I'm fairly sure this helps as well.

I might advise looking into getting aftermarket spares from Grainger.
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  #13  
Old 09-07-2007, 05:56 AM
maintenanceguy maintenanceguy is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 156
I've got a older scag belt drive WB and it's got a flat belt for the drive belts. I didn't realize that double v belts were used for the wheel drives by anyone.

If you really do have a double V belt, I would think that a matched set of industrial V belts would work as long as you have the right cross section and you make sure to get a matched set. When a drive uses multiple belts, you need to specify that the belts are "matched" since a tiny difference in length will leave one belt tight and one slack.

Since controlling belt friction on the pulley is critical in this application, be sure you have the right cross section. I've got a post about how to do that on page 2 here:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=199016

The purpose of joining belts together in double or tripple belts is to prevent the belts from rolling, usually when there are exceptionally long distances between pulleys. This doesn't seem to be the case with a WB drive belt. I'm cheap so I'd definately try a matched pair of industrial belts.
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