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  #21  
Old 07-22-2007, 08:46 PM
khouse khouse is offline
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I knew that that seal would swell up like a Puffer fish so that's why I said a rebuild kit would be in order. I think that seal comes in the kit. But Restrorobs right about the butterfly screws breaking off. Look at all the experience you know have cleaning that carb out a few times! I'm not familiar with that kill switch but can't you pull it out the front of the panel?
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  #22  
Old 07-22-2007, 09:01 PM
buzzard86 buzzard86 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khouse View Post
I'm not familiar with that kill switch but can't you pull it out the front of the panel?
Nah, I doesn't look like it's that easy. The switch is actually sunken into the motor housing, about 4 inches from the spark plug. Can't get what left of it to budge. Looks like I may have to pull the housing and recoil assembly to get at it.

I hope I'm wrong... that's why I posted it up here before tearing things apart. But there doesn't seem to be anything easily accessible that will release the switch.

By the way, thank for the earlier info khouse. I'd planned to go ahead with the good soak followed by the rebuild if it still wasn't running, but looks like the spray may have worked. Thanks for your help, though.

JIM
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  #23  
Old 07-22-2007, 09:25 PM
khouse khouse is offline
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Maybe you can just buy a shorting clip. Mount it under a head bolt and push it against the plug. Some have a sharp point that penetrates the boot. I'm not sure of the part number as I did a quick search. But B&S makes them.
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  #24  
Old 07-22-2007, 09:43 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Jim,

What I meant by "radical run" is popping/spitting/sputtering/running high then low, Like a plugged carb. would do.

Sorry but the whole housing must come off to get the old switch out, The housing has to come off anyway to do something with the kill wire dangling inside shorting out.
I believe the carb is just fine now but this kill wire is the problem.

But, You must remove the air filter base to gain access to the fuel pump mounting screws and remove them before you can get the housing off.

If you want to go will a kill tang on the spark plug as khouse mentioned it's part# 220197 but you still have to fix the shorting wire.
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  #25  
Old 07-22-2007, 09:58 PM
buzzard86 buzzard86 is offline
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Thanks, Rob. I was just looking at the schematic and found the part# for the switch. I guess if I have the housing off anyway I might as well fix it with a factory replacement. I think I will indeed put a new switch on and see if that fixes it before I pull the carb again.

Learning lots here, as usual. Thanks again to everyone for their help!

JIM
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  #26  
Old 07-22-2007, 10:20 PM
khouse khouse is offline
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Restrorob,
I knew you could come up with the clip part number! Take care.
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  #27  
Old 07-28-2007, 09:56 PM
buzzard86 buzzard86 is offline
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Originally Posted by Restrorob View Post
If the center part of the kill switch is loose/comes out, The kill wire could be dangling around inside the flywheel cover shorting out causing a radical run situation.
Rob -

You were exactly right. I got the replacement switch from my dealer this morning and pulled the motor housing later in the day. The wire had indeed separated from the remnants of the switch and was flopping around inside. I installed the new switch and buttoned everything back up and it runs like a champ.

Thank you.

JIM
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  #28  
Old 07-28-2007, 10:05 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Quote:
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You were exactly right. Thank you.
No problem Jim, I just had the same exact problem last sunday on my brother-in-laws generator with the same engine.
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  #29  
Old 09-09-2007, 01:28 PM
buzzard86 buzzard86 is offline
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Quick Follow Up Question

Hey Rob and gang -

Quick follow up question to this generator thread that I started a few months back. Thanks to all of your help, the generator's running good as new.

My new question... can I put a quieter muffler on this thing? It runs great but it's LOUD! I'm using it right now primarilary to provide light in a shed on the back of my property, but the shed's actually much closer to my neighbor's house than my own and I'm sure that the noise is quite noticable to them.

The muffler that's on it now looks almost like a soda can and screws in. Most of the mufflers that I've seen online have an oval connection with two bolts. I looked and it appears that I do have two bolt holes on either side of the opening in which the current muffler is inserted. I wanted to check with you guys first before I dropped the cash into a replacement.

And, I guess most importantly, even if I can swap the muffler do you think it would help?

Thanks again, guys.
JIM
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  #30  
Old 09-09-2007, 02:06 PM
khouse khouse is offline
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I once went to a muffler shop and had them make an adapter for an 18 hp engine pipe. Then they sold me a small muffler. I put it all together with proper brakets and you could hardly hear it running. Don't buy a glasspack muffler. Mine was about 8 x 12 x 3 inches in size. All total was about $30.00
This could be an option.
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