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  #721  
Old 08-19-2009, 07:42 PM
mrusk mrusk is offline
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That retaining wall would NEVER past an inspection in NJ.
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  #722  
Old 08-19-2009, 07:45 PM
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Junior M Junior M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tthomass View Post
Thats from a very late concrete pour......not too happy with that company. Anyway, somehow it was overlooked getting off the Bobcat. It already had some on there and paint just not looking its best anyway because we actually use the machine.....winter project is grinding and painting the Bobcat for a nice face lift. Other than that on the front, the machine is kept clean and very well maintained.

**Something to note. Anyone thinking of using PA field stone for a veneer that hasn't, keep in mind the stone comes very dirty and needs washing off which means more time. I prefer other stones but its the cheapest and sometimes just comes down to using it to meet a budget.
Oh okay.

And I understand you use it, its like a work truck, just cause its a work truck doesnt mean you cant take care of it, but I definetly get what your saying, there are times when you got better things to do than worry about beating up your machine..
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Just run the god damn sh*t out of the machine and the hell with all the other crap, make money instead of worrying about crap that only accountants think about!
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  #723  
Old 08-19-2009, 07:46 PM
Hollowellreid Hollowellreid is offline
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So how does the footing work? Is the grade high enough that the bottom of the concrete should be under the frost line? Here the footing (at least if you get any sort of permit) needs to be 42" deep. You guys need a Kushlan mixer! really nice for small amounts of mortar, concrete, etc.

Another question to follow up on another earlier one...when you do bluestone/flagstone and wet set it, do you pour a standard 4" slab and then scratch/mortar bed then set the stone into that? Or?

Thanks in advance
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  #724  
Old 08-19-2009, 07:48 PM
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tthomass tthomass is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrusk View Post
That retaining wall would NEVER past an inspection in NJ.
Welcome to VA.
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  #725  
Old 08-19-2009, 07:52 PM
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tthomass tthomass is offline
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Originally Posted by Hollowellreid View Post
So how does the footing work? Is the grade high enough that the bottom of the concrete should be under the frost line? Here the footing (at least if you get any sort of permit) needs to be 42" deep. You guys need a Kushlan mixer! really nice for small amounts of mortar, concrete, etc.

Another question to follow up on another earlier one...when you do bluestone/flagstone and wet set it, do you pour a standard 4" slab and then scratch/mortar bed then set the stone into that? Or?

Thanks in advance
The footing is actually close to 30", 24" is code here in VA (we're warmer). Additionally, grade is raising on the outside of the wall as I excavated a flat area with the Bobcat so that I could operate the excavator on a level surface to dig the footer.

Kushlan a brand? I have a mixer but we use it for concrete, not mortar as it makes a mess.

4" is standard, my minimum. I pour 5-6" and then tamp with a hard rake to roughen the surface. Mortar then is used to set each stone, one by one.
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  #726  
Old 08-19-2009, 07:56 PM
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tthomass tthomass is offline
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Wall will be getting 12" of #57 gravel up the back + 2" weep holes/drainage coming through the wall. Wall will be filled solid with concrete too. No inspections required on a wall of this size.
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  #727  
Old 08-19-2009, 09:25 PM
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tthomass tthomass is offline
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-Hey Matt.......what is NJ code anyway? At what height does it kick in, specs etc?.....generally speaking
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  #728  
Old 08-19-2009, 09:44 PM
mrusk mrusk is offline
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I have a engineered plan right in front of me. Any cmu wall needs to be engineered if its not like a seat wall or something with no load.

This is a 3ft tall wall with a average load behind it. Frost line is 42" We need a T footing bottom of T is 16" wide top of the t is 4'9" wide. T has a total height of 3'. T has #5 rebar running vert @ 32" on c and #4 running hort at 10" on center. Once the t footing is poured we would start the the 10" cmu's. We need to have 2' of cmu's burried below grade. Then we would have our 3' of wall above grade. The cmus need durawall every other course and the wall has to be grouted solid.

This is a pretty standard plan I just snapped a pic of the plan to help you.
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  #729  
Old 08-19-2009, 10:13 PM
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P.Services P.Services is offline
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Originally Posted by tthomass View Post
**Something to note. Anyone thinking of using PA field stone for a veneer that hasn't, keep in mind the stone comes very dirty and needs washing off which means more time. I prefer other stones but its the cheapest and sometimes just comes down to using it to meet a budget.

how much is the stone? are you buying it quarry direct or are you getting it from a landscape supply center?

can you snap some pics of the pallets before you start to use them? how many sq ft of coverage do you get per ton or per pallet?
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  #730  
Old 08-20-2009, 12:50 AM
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tthomass tthomass is offline
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Its about $225 for a pallet from supply center. Its the same thin stone that is often used to build dry stack walls. Nothing special but it works in a pinch when you need to trim some fat to close a deal. When it comes down to having to use PA, I'm looking at a speed factor. Fit it a little and throw the mortar to it. You trim the "fat" and meet a budget by saving on material and labor. On this wall here, I would have probably just recommended the PA anyway because they do not use the lower yard at all making, for example, a $600 per ton stone a waste of money. Now, if they like the more expensive stone and want it, thats fine with me but its just a matter of talking to the customer, getting a budget and knowing what they'll go for.

I've got a 'dove gray' wall coming up in a few weeks which looks much nicer. Its not a big job but a much nicer look as the other tends to look cookie cutter. A few pages back with the picture of the circle landing + brick has a 'dove gray' wall. We're building one wrapping the left side of the house + lighting.
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