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  #11  
Old 09-04-2007, 06:10 PM
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Eric D Eric D is offline
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Originally Posted by DillonsLawnCare View Post
i push the choke all the way down. he choke is attached to the speed thing where you can set it in low gear/rpm's. .
More then likely the starting problem is your choke not closing completely. You need to locate the carburator and the side that faces the air cleaner need to be removed to allow you to see the plate that closes off the air flow into the carburator. This plate has to close completely when you move the knob up on your control panel where the throttle is. Getting this set correctly is a must to allow easy starting.

Eric D
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2007, 06:28 PM
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DillonsLawnCare DillonsLawnCare is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric D View Post
More then likely the starting problem is your choke not closing completely. You need to locate the carburator and the side that faces the air cleaner need to be removed to allow you to see the plate that closes off the air flow into the carburator. This plate has to close completely when you move the knob up on your control panel where the throttle is. Getting this set correctly is a must to allow easy starting.

Eric D
but, do you think that a simple little thing as a small gap of air would cause a mower not to start within 62 pulls? is the carb that important for it to be closed????
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  #13  
Old 09-04-2007, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DillonsLawnCare View Post
but, do you think that a simple little thing as a small gap of air would cause a mower not to start within 62 pulls? is the carb that important for it to be closed????
Yes! That important. When trouble shooting an issue it is always best to start with the simple stuff first. (meaning easiest to check and fix). Hey, just my two cents worth..

Eric D
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  #14  
Old 09-04-2007, 06:49 PM
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DillonsLawnCare DillonsLawnCare is offline
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ok, i went out to check the carb, and it DOESNT fully close when the choke is in place. its fully opened when the mower is in low speed and partly closed when in fast speed and it doesnt change from that spot when in choke.

if i dont get this fixed for a month or two, will it hurt my mower? should i take it in right away???? thanks
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-1999 Scag SWZ Hydro Walk-Behind 17hp Kawasaki 52" Deck
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  #15  
Old 09-04-2007, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DillonsLawnCare View Post
if i dont get this fixed for a month or two, will it hurt my mower? should i take it in right away???? thanks

You know what to do now.....
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You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #16  
Old 09-04-2007, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DillonsLawnCare View Post
ok, i went out to check the carb, and it DOESNT fully close when the choke is in place. its fully opened when the mower is in low speed and partly closed when in fast speed and it doesnt change from that spot when in choke.

if i dont get this fixed for a month or two, will it hurt my mower? should i take it in right away???? thanks
Take it in to the shop and have them rebuild the carb, the choke even if it doesn't close all the way should start within the first five pulls. Mine starts with choke completely open after 2-3 pulls even after sitting for over a week.
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  #17  
Old 09-04-2007, 08:55 PM
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DillonsLawnCare DillonsLawnCare is offline
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what do you think the price will be. a rough estimate. i know ur not the repair man. but hey, worth a try.
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-223L Husqvarna Trimmer
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  #18  
Old 09-05-2007, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by DillonsLawnCare View Post
what do you think the price will be. a rough estimate. i know ur not the repair man. but hey, worth a try.
Not sure about price but I would guess less than $200.00 depending on your shops labor cost. If your handy and mechanically inclined you could do it yourself and save yourself a bunch of money. I would spend the money and have the shop do it for peace of mind. Your shop will rebuild the carb and adjust the settings so it runs good, pulling 40-60 times to get started when your at customers place doesn't look good and is bad for your reputation.
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  #19  
Old 09-05-2007, 09:55 AM
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Yeah, couple of hundred, likely it got dirt in the bowl or the jets, been many years since I had this problem, the last time I experienced the 50-puller was in the days of running cheap fuel, see guys THIS is why I insist on running namebrand premium
Oh yeah it ain't like I'm some rich fool just woke up one day and decided it's time to splurge like an idiot, 2 or 3 days of that 50+ pull to start recoil rope crap and my arm was so sore I was forever convinced. No doubt it ran dandy on regular, until that one day when the dirt finally gets to it, no more for me.

I will say you need to make sure your spark plug is gapped right, mine was off at .050 or some stupid wide, it needs to be .030
Still, I switched to super, never again will I pull 50 times no stupid recoil rope, fark that!
There's no ultimate guarantee it won't ever happen again, but I do know with super it runs better, longer.
Amoco BP 93, pay at the pump or pay later.

Last edited by topsites; 09-05-2007 at 10:04 AM.
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  #20  
Old 09-05-2007, 12:03 PM
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Eric D Eric D is offline
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Premium versus Regular Fuel???

Ok topsites,

Iím falling for the bait! The never ending debate on Premium versus Regular gas.

Here are some key points to keep in mind:
  1. Premium fuel sometimes is worse fuel than regular. It resists knock because it's harder to ignite than lower-octane fuels. For us, this means harder to start!
  2. The Federal Trade Commission, in a consumer notice, emphasizes: "In most cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner." The same holds true for lawn cutting equipment.

Do as you may, itís your right, but you are eating at your profits for no real benefit.

Hey, just my humble opinion!

Eric D
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