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  #41  
Old 01-06-2008, 04:45 AM
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ChampionLS ChampionLS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Solecki - INTEGRA View Post
Anthony. You are suggesting that coring of a rectangular cavity is into set concrete of unknown depth and unknown construction (it might be steel re-inforced) is "easy".

Please tell us all how you do this so easily, while being very neat, keeping the hole square, not chipping the top surface near the outside of the hole, and not cracking the concrete pad to the edge of the drive. I would love to learn your technique.

Similarly, how easy is it to core a hole down and then horizontally out to the edge of the concrete driveway (all without damage to the concrete) to run your lead wire through, understanding that the wire must be protected from the concrete by some form of conduit.

Thanks.

James,

I'm not sure where the rectangular hole came about... I was referring to coring a common 2-1/2" (62mm) diameter hole (cavity) into the driveway or walkway, removing the core so you will have a nice sleeve to work with. You would then tunnel under the concrete with a fish stick or fish tape and pull the fixture wire out towards the side. I would then mix some quick setting cement.. pour it in and install the fixture. You would have to carefully press the fixture down until the lens is flush with the surface, and wait till the cement sets up. In the meantime, you could do your hookup and continue.

About the conduit- You could install a length of 1/2" flexible conduit under the cement and out towards the edge, however most cement is poured on aggregate and that would snag the conduit, making it harder to push it through. You wouldnt want to over excavate or undermine the driveway. We use the fast setting cement because that will fill any voids you create.
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  #42  
Old 01-06-2008, 05:00 AM
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ChampionLS ChampionLS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefly Prof. Lighting View Post
Anthony,
If you are monitoring this thread. How hard is it to install into existing concrete. Can these things be installed from the top, or do I have to dig a hole under the concrete and slide them in from the bottom after coring?
Paul,

That residence is the bomb! Beautiful Job!

Tim,

Yes, I'm monitoring. Up late working on some new projects for 08'
Anyway... I responded to James's post and I'll try to help answer your questions. Where do you intend to install the lights? - vehicular or pedestrian application? With some work, you can successfully install them into concrete. You will need a modified base (flange removed), Piece of flexible conduit, core drill/bit and template. The installation is the same as in my above post. We use a suction cup to lower the fixture into the cavity. If it needs to be lifted out, this works great. We add cement, until a flush elevation is achieved and let it set up. After everything is hooked up, paver joint sand, or polymeric sand can be applied to 'fill in' the space between the Lamp Module and the cavity's edge. It gives a final finished appearance similar to tile grout.

~Anthony
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  #43  
Old 01-06-2008, 11:59 AM
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Lite4 Lite4 is online now
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Cool, that is all I was wondering was if you could put them in from above after coring. I am looking at installing on the perimeter of a driveway. No big deal to fish wire to em. Did I understand you said that there is a gap around the light that needs to be filled after it is installed?
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  #44  
Old 01-06-2008, 02:12 PM
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ChampionLS ChampionLS is offline
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Yes, the gap is about 1/16th in diameter. (the clearance between the diameter of the core - 2-9/16 and the diameter of the Lamp Module 2-1/2) This space is where the Removal Tool fits in and removes/installs the light during replacement. You can fill this space in with fine sand, or colored sand to create an accent. The sand also helps seal out any contaminants. To replace the lamp, the sand is flushed away with water, or compressed air (works best). The compressed air kit (maintenance item) includes a can of compressed air, a 90 degree pick tool and brush to clean out that gap so the tool fits in. The kit lasts for about 60 replacements.

Below are some photos showing how to replace...or switch lamp colors in about 30 seconds:

Photo 1 Remove the sand trim ring with compressed air or water (air preferred)

Photo 2 Install the removal tool over the light. Press fit wedges it to the lamp.
A 1/4 turn counter clockwise unlocks the lamp from the locking ring. Turn the plunger to eject the lamp.

Photo 3 Install new/different color lamp by backing off on the plunger and pressing the lamp into the tool. Clean the cavity and lock ring area.

Photo 4 Close up of the locking ears, socket and NYK Anti Corrosive Compound.

Photo 5 The new lamp/color change before filling the gap with new sand. This can be omitted on decks/docks as it is not a requirement.
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  #45  
Old 01-06-2008, 02:22 PM
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INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting is offline
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Very cool Anthony, almost makes me wish I had a use for paver lights here. Not a bad looking fixture either. If you want to send me a catalog of your products for my library, you never know, I might just need some someday.

Regards.
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  #46  
Old 01-06-2008, 03:58 PM
jhuanger629 jhuanger629 is offline
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solar led paver - install pic

happy new year everyone,

i love the paver lighting accents for the long driveway shot.

just wanted to post a pic from an install of some solar led pavers as well as a close up of the actual unit just to offer an alternative.


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  #47  
Old 01-06-2008, 04:11 PM
pete scalia pete scalia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhuanger629 View Post
happy new year everyone,

i love the paver lighting accents for the long driveway shot.

just wanted to post a pic from an install of some solar led pavers as well as a close up of the actual unit just to offer an alternative.


Got any night pics? Let's see how much light ya got on er.
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  #48  
Old 01-06-2008, 04:16 PM
pete scalia pete scalia is offline
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I'm suspect of plastic lenses outside especially pointing straight up. What happens when the UV gets to it? Turn it yellow? Then how much light do you have?
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  #49  
Old 01-06-2008, 04:21 PM
jhuanger629 jhuanger629 is offline
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hey pete, hope you had a great new years. The client hasn't finished touching up the edges, so he's going to be sending me night shots in a few days or so.

I'll be happy to post some pics of the units in various night settings as a reference.

I've attached some images of the lights during the early evening and at night.



night (various units in parallel)


night (dealer simply lined up a number of units around a property to gauge output. i think all photography makes lighting more prevalent than it is, but our units serve as accent/pathway lighting)

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  #50  
Old 01-06-2008, 04:22 PM
jhuanger629 jhuanger629 is offline
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surface is made of a thick layer of polycarbonite resin. As with all polycarbonite, there is a slight yellowing over the years, but output and aesthetics aren't effected at all.

i'll post a pic of the difference in terms of yellowing between a new unit and a unit that has been left outside over 2 years.
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