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  #11  
Old 10-30-2007, 06:01 AM
scagmaster scagmaster is offline
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How do I find the 3350 rpm? What is the rpms at full throttle?
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  #12  
Old 10-30-2007, 08:02 AM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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There is no telling what the RPM's are set to at full throttle unless you have one of these;

http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/gasoline.php

Should be between 3600/3700 RPM.

I have the first one on top in my tool box for setting/checking engines.
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  #13  
Old 10-30-2007, 01:26 PM
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Bill Kapaun Bill Kapaun is offline
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If your engine is running properly, your full speed RPM should be up in that range, so your readings should be extremely close to what is specified. Look for readings that are noticeably "out of whack" for a quick test.
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  #14  
Old 10-31-2007, 06:44 PM
johnp900 johnp900 is offline
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Have you check the ohm's on the clutch? This mower was sold 04/19/2001 & probably about time for a clutch to go.
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  #15  
Old 10-31-2007, 09:56 PM
outdoorpower outdoorpower is offline
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The clutch has nothing to do with voltage variance from idle to top speed if the voltage is being checked with clutch disengaged. If you have replaced the parts you say you have, you've probably either lost a magnet on the flywheel due to dirt and debree getting between the flywheel and stator or lost magnetism in the magnets
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  #16  
Old 11-01-2007, 05:42 PM
johnp900 johnp900 is offline
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Actually, the clutch has a lot to do with it. This mower does not have a battery. The clutch "tells" the regulator how many amps it needs. If the clutch is shorted or the gap is too wide, the electrical load on the clutch will exceed the amount the rectifier can provide. Also, in the main connector from the engine deck to the handle assembly, the main red wire can become burned & corroded due to excessive electrical load & exposure to the elements. This connection needs to be checked & repaired if needed. In reading the posts, this guy has just been replacing parts. To troubleshoot the system correctly, he NEEDS to check the clutch ohm's & air gap & check the wire harness connector. it should take all of 3 minutes to do this. If these tests prove negative, then go back to the stator & regulator. I will bet the problem is in the the area I described.
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  #17  
Old 11-01-2007, 09:48 PM
scagmaster scagmaster is offline
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Guys, thanks for all the advise. I am going to spend the entire day tomorrow working on the mower. I am going to recheck the entire system. To answer the question about the clutch its an Ogura clutch it read 3.0 ohms and the gap is set to 10 to 12 thousandths per the scag dealer. The wiring harness is broke at the connector going to the handle so I put new ends on it. This looks go no burnt wires. Plus also I have remove all the swithes out of the circuit still the same result. I also clean the ground terminal.
Thank you guys so much for your help. Keep the ideas coming GREAT SITE
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  #18  
Old 11-01-2007, 11:03 PM
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Bill Kapaun Bill Kapaun is offline
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If you could place an ammeter in series with the electric clutch, you could observe current draw of the clutch through the entire speed range.
Maybe something in the internal electrical circuit of the clutch itself is loose and shorting when the speed/vibration reaches a certain point?
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