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  #11  
Old 02-18-2000, 11:00 PM
PLS PLS is offline
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Ken:<br>Curlawngreen pretty much coverd the lift. The bigger the lift wing on the back, the more lift. I alway stay with the standard lift for the most part, except for the fall and winter in leaf season, we then switch to the gator style blades. They do a much better job of reducing leaves on the yard as we do not bag anything. I also started out using a 4 1/2 inch grinder to sharpen my blades, it worked well. The blade grinder is much easier, faster and very consistant on the angle(which helps when your sharpening 20 blades at a time). Most OEM blades seem to be made of a little better steel than some aftermarket blades. OEM seem to be straighter than aftermarket blades. As to sharp vs. very sharp... The OEM angle is most often 30 degrees. We use 35 degrees (I think this helps with the getting nicked so easy) on everything (saves adjusting the grinder and keeps the angle more consistant). It would even be possible to go to 40 degrees I suppose. As far as being too sharp..... Would you sharpen your pocket knife then dull it with a file... No, didn't think so. I do understand the thought behind it though. We have played with that concept a little, never noticed much difference. But as I said we change blades every day at least. By sharpening more often, the blade dosen't get in such bad shape so it's much quicker to sharpen. A blade grinder sharpens the blade with the wheel turning into the blade, this eliminates the bur edge that you get by sharpening away from the edge. With a good blade grinder, if you want a little flat edge, Just don't sharpen it as much and you have your flat edge without having to go back an dull it with a file on purpose.<br>
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  #12  
Old 02-18-2000, 11:07 PM
Lanelle Lanelle is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: No.VA, zone 7
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What about balancing the blades after sharpening? How often and how important?
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  #13  
Old 02-18-2000, 11:14 PM
PLS PLS is offline
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Yes we balance them every time, saves a bunch on spindle bearings. Also bye the grinder turning into the blade it helps keep the heat from burning the edge and turning it blue (thats a bad thing).
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2000, 10:13 PM
yardsmith yardsmith is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Ohio
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you also don't strap your pocketknife to a spindle powered by a 25 hp motor & spin it at 1200 rpm's or whatever & subject it to cutting grass growing out of the ground & whatever else may be hiding each week. ‹<p>----------<br>Smitty ŰŅŰ<br>
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2000, 10:02 PM
PLS PLS is offline
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Ahh, you say tomatoes I say tomatoes. Like I said, I've tried it both ways, didn't see much difference. But I can tell we both like em sharp. So what the hell, let him try it both ways.
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  #16  
Old 02-21-2000, 12:23 AM
HOMER HOMER is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Alabama the Beautiful
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When they cut your hands when you install them, then and only then are they sharp enough. I don't see the point in pre-dulling a blade anyway, the first yard you cut will do that! If you r&r blades daily anyway it should never be a problem, if not then Oh well.<p>When I bought my 72&quot; chopper I had a heck of a time finding blades for it, everybody was back ordering them and every other thing I needed. I sharpened that set many times and when I bought a new set to go on it I had 102 hrs on the mower. Had I not sharpened them as much they would have never lasted as long.<p>My opinion is the sharper you get them the better off you'll be, stay out of the rocks!<p>Homer
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2000, 10:34 PM
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gene gls gene gls is online now
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Location: Granville, Ma. 01034
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For you new guys with blade grinders there is a RUBY wheel on the market that does not burn the blade as fast as a standard wheel.
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  #18  
Old 02-21-2000, 10:43 PM
PLS PLS is offline
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Gene: Now they have one better than the ruby, don't now what they call it, but it's blue. It's supposed to cut a little faster and be cooler also. Uhhhhhh it also costs more, wouldn't ya know it.<br>
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