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  #11  
Old 12-11-2007, 10:44 AM
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JoeyD JoeyD is offline
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Sounds good. Good luck Dana, hit me up if there is anything I can do!
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  #12  
Old 12-11-2007, 02:34 PM
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johnh johnh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanaMac View Post
Well the brand was DAMAR, 25w PAR 36. I had the voltage at about 11.0-11.4 on most lamps as I was still working and troubleshooting. I heard a "POP" and went and looked around. The glass front completely popped off, basically cracking around the outer edge and then it flew off about 5'.

So any reason why this would happen? Outdoor temps were cool, but not sub-zero or anything. Not that that should matter anyway. I have some PAR36s at my place that have been in over 5 years. Is it the manufacturer?
DanaMac,
Just curious, did you check the voltage of the lamps? Damar makes a 5.5 Volt 25W Par36 as well as a 12V version. 11.5V through a 5.5V lamp would have adverse affects.
JH
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  #13  
Old 12-11-2007, 03:24 PM
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DanaMac DanaMac is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnh View Post
DanaMac,
Just curious, did you check the voltage of the lamps? Damar makes a 5.5 Volt 25W Par36 as well as a 12V version. 11.5V through a 5.5V lamp would have adverse affects.
JH
Yes, they were stamped 12 volt on the box and the lamp. Maybe they were wrong though.
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  #14  
Old 12-11-2007, 10:51 PM
pete scalia pete scalia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyD View Post
I am saying you should never use a Par36 that is not made by GE. This comes from selling hundreds of thousands of well lights and testing just about every par36 out there. REAL IN THE FIELD TESTING, NOT SIMULATED BS TESTING. But I am seeign the problem with the GE 25w. I have contacted GE and we have spoken to one of their par engineers. They are unaware of a problem, but they were also unaware of the problem years ago when they were going through the same issue with this same 25watt incandescent lamp. Just stay with halogen and never use an incandescent PAR36. You will be playing it much safer. If you do want to use those lamps then you need to undervolt that lamp to make it last longer than a week.
Nothing wrong with Sylvania capsylite PAR's . Unique used to use them. They had some problems with water intrusion a few yrs back but seemed to have solved it now. It's safe to go back to the sylvania PAR's.
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  #15  
Old 12-11-2007, 10:55 PM
pete scalia pete scalia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanaMac View Post
Yes, they were stamped 12 volt on the box and the lamp. Maybe they were wrong though.
The problem is that they are cheap chinese manufactured junk bulbs just like everything else the Dabmar name is on.
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  #16  
Old 12-11-2007, 10:59 PM
Chris J Chris J is offline
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Not me! Par, MR, Wedge or whatever: once the manufacturer has proved themselves to be inferior, it takes a whole lot more than a casual recommendation to get me back. This includes lighting manufacturers!
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  #17  
Old 12-11-2007, 11:15 PM
pete scalia pete scalia is offline
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Originally Posted by Chris J View Post
Not me! Par, MR, Wedge or whatever: once the manufacturer has proved themselves to be inferior, it takes a whole lot more than a casual recommendation to get me back. This includes lighting manufacturers!
suit yourself
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  #18  
Old 12-11-2007, 11:43 PM
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Lite4 Lite4 is offline
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Pete, I would agree with you on some of the more reputible manufacturers fixing their bulbs. Most would recognize a problem and fix it so they don't lose business. I don't know about Chicom companies however. I don't think I would buy a cheap Chicom bulb anyway.
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  #19  
Old 12-12-2007, 01:41 AM
irrig8r irrig8r is offline
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What does Chicom mean?
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  #20  
Old 12-12-2007, 01:50 AM
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INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting is offline
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Originally Posted by irrig8r View Post
What does Chicom mean?
Chinese Communist I believe.

I don't think it is meant as a term of endearment!
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