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  #21  
Old 12-18-2007, 11:42 PM
pete scalia pete scalia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extlights View Post
I agree, we only use GE also. Now those thermal breakers are just plain junk in my opinion. We used to use them, but had so many problems with them that they just cost us too much money on service calls. Maybe it's our climate area? We do use a lot of well lights, but never had any problems with fires or anything else. If you know when and where to use them, you should be good. I'm one of the few firm believers of PAR's on this board....I love that lamp.
Hmmn somebody here keeps claiming they have never had 1 problem with a certain transformer failing or a Wellight thermal breaker going bad. Although many others have and have posted photos (transformer) for proof. Though I guess the chances are low when you've installed just 10 transformers and 50 fixtures over your career.
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  #22  
Old 12-18-2007, 11:49 PM
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INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting is offline
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Doubt me if you will but I have never ever had a Nightscaping Powercenter fail me. Not one, ever. Ask my distributor JohnH who is on this forum. I did have one sustain a direct lighting strike... it ceased working and was replaced with a new unit.
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  #23  
Old 12-19-2007, 12:57 AM
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Sorry,
I guess I don't see the point in comparing one company to another. We are all in our own foot race here. Everybody has their own lane to run in so to speak. What is right for me and my companys goals is probably not right for someone elses. So what, and who really cares. All that matters to me is that my family has food on the table at the end of the day, and I feel good about what I have accomplished.
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  #24  
Old 12-19-2007, 01:16 AM
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INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting INTEGRA Bespoke Lighting is offline
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Hear Hear!

I am in complete agreement with you Tim.
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  #25  
Old 12-19-2007, 07:55 AM
Mike M Mike M is offline
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Back on track with PAR/well experience:

Only Joey has mentioned contacts at this point, does anyone grease up contacts or use a hardening medium?

Also, I'd like to address sealed vs. open a little more. The higher-end sealed sounds best, but a big leap in cost for multiple fixtures. Should it come down to heavily mulched areas vs. protected areas? A bid I am doing now based on my demo calls for PAR's at the building structure, away from pine mulch, but gradual year-round leave litter will occur. Many of the wells will be tucked behind plant material, so landscapers may miss them. I could probably just clean off once or twice a year within a service contract.

Are the debris shields helpful? Are the GE PAR 36 50 watters as reliable as their 35's?

More feedback and tips on wells from experienced well users greatly appreciated. Everyone is bringing up great info! Thanks.

Mike M
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  #26  
Old 12-19-2007, 09:50 AM
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Mike,
My recent experiment with pars is in the same development with around 250 total or so. What I have done with those is to encase all of the metal on the backside with a semi hardening silicone caulk with an exterior waterproof grading. Seems to work very well. The bulbs that I have had to replace so far were no problem working around the silicone, it just pulls off with a little tug and then I reapply with the new bulb. I am sure grease would work ok too. I don't know which brand to use though. I have some GB antiox compound/grease I use on connections but it doesn't seem as durable as the silicone for the large size of the par contacts.

I usually have always used the open pars. I like the idea of the debris guard; I am just not sure how much it will change the photometrics or if it will leave shadowing.

I need to look at the 50 watters. I typically have never used more than a 35 because I have not needed that much punch. I do have a house coming up that has a very tall brick face, around 25-30' tall. I demod the 35's and the brick seemed to suck up just a little too much light. I don't know how much better the photometrics are on a 50. In the MRs the difference between a 36 degree 35 watt and a 50 watt are not enough to bother with.
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  #27  
Old 12-19-2007, 10:55 AM
Mike M Mike M is offline
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Tim, I wish I took pics. The demo I did a few nights back was on a tall, wide house, the GE 38 degree 50's made it work!! The wife wasn't happy with the upper reaches and trim highlights with the 35's, so I swapped them the next night. Looked great. I am wondering about longevity/reliabilty with the 50's, wanted to know if they were as good as the 35's. I know the 20 watters fail.

I like the idea of the outdoor silicone caulk, I hate grease, especially the no-ox.

I want to try debris covers on the shield's, if anyone has additional info on those I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!!!

Mike M.
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  #28  
Old 12-19-2007, 11:14 AM
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JoeyD JoeyD is offline
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Mike,

First let me say that our feedback from guys using the 20w Halogen Par36 GE lamp is very good. I do not hear this stuff about them failing prematurley. I think a lot of guys are fooled and are actually using the 25w incandescent version which fail at an alarming rate. As for the 50 watters we have some on our building here that we have been testing in various fixtures. They have been in for atleast the last 8 months and have been burning nearly around the clock since we installed them. (we do not run them to waste electricity, we run them around the clock for months on end to expose problems and to test.) we have not had any of them burn out to my knowledge as of yet and they do produce a very bright nice light.



The Eucalyptus trees on the right have the 50w lamps. Our lighting gets messed with everyday so placement isnt always the best so save the placement critiquing for another day, we know there is hot spots and it can always be better! You dang designers are so picky.....LOL

Joey D.
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  #29  
Old 12-19-2007, 11:49 AM
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JoeyD JoeyD is offline
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Oh I for got to address the grease situation. We used to use a Spray on White Lithium grease for our connectors and it worked OK. We found that NO-OX or OX-Guard seems to harden over time causing poor conduction. We went away from this a few years ago and adopted a new compound called NovaGard. NovaGard G661 is a Dielectric Compound with temp ratings from -40deg farenheit to 400deg farenheit. It works also as a lubricant as well as a corrosion protectant. We use this on everything now from our sockets to our connectors. If you want more info on where to purchase it you can call NovaGard Solutions @ 1-800-380-0138.
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  #30  
Old 12-19-2007, 07:59 PM
pete scalia pete scalia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyD View Post
Mike,

First let me say that our feedback from guys using the 20w Halogen Par36 GE lamp is very good. I do not hear this stuff about them failing prematurley. I think a lot of guys are fooled and are actually using the 25w incandescent version which fail at an alarming rate. As for the 50 watters we have some on our building here that we have been testing in various fixtures. They have been in for atleast the last 8 months and have been burning nearly around the clock since we installed them. (we do not run them to waste electricity, we run them around the clock for months on end to expose problems and to test.) we have not had any of them burn out to my knowledge as of yet and they do produce a very bright nice light.



The Eucalyptus trees on the right have the 50w lamps. Our lighting gets messed with everyday so placement isnt always the best so save the placement critiquing for another day, we know there is hot spots and it can always be better! You dang designers are so picky.....LOL

Joey D.
Not for nothin but you guys can do better than that. The leaves of the large trees are all dark. get them laced out at least so you can get some light through the canopy and use some narrow beams to get some light up in there. Some of those palms don't even have their tops lit which isn't much of a challenge considering their size. Those bold leaved tropicals against the wall would look better silhouetted and not front lit. The American flag seems way underlit. You should have the granola peddler out to light your sign this way half of it would be dark. Sorry but I'm upset over the whole thing.
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