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  #21  
Old 01-02-2008, 09:34 PM
AGLA AGLA is offline
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There are lots of different kinds of engineers. in most states both architects and engineers need to follow their education with an internship prior to getting licensed. In bot cases a bachelor's degree will suffice.

A lot of architecture programs in universities are now giving Master's degrees in just five years. I'm not sure where you are getting this idea that it is easier to become an engineer or that an architect has such high knowlede beyond the foundation of a building. My personal experience is that architects tend to have problems once they get outside of the building.

I think it has something to do with being unaccustomed to being in full control. In a building you can always adjust it to meet your own needs. Need more room for a heat duct? Just design a higher ceiling. Bath tub doesn't fit? Bump out the wall. They can almost always adjust their constraints, so they are always in control.

The same is not true when it comes to site work. You have to adjust everything to deal with the realities of the site. For examle: You can't just decide that the driveway will have a 3% grade. It actually has to go from the grade at the street to that of the garage within the distance that the two ae apart.

I see architects design walkout basements where you have to make a canyon out of the backyard because it really does not fit. I see them design handicap accessible doorways only to put wood siding three inches below the threshold on each side and expecting a sidewalk with no rails to go right into the building even though they know building code requires 8" between the grade and the wood on the building.

It takes a lot to design and spec' buildings. I respect architects and what they do. But many don't have a clue once you get outside of the building. It almost always has to do with a lack of fully understanding of grading and drainage. There are certainly some that are expert in it. I just have to say that my personal experience is that most are not. I do site plans in a civil engineering office as my full time job.
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  #22  
Old 01-02-2008, 10:12 PM
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clyde clyde is offline
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No i don't eat it ... this is the first time i have had it happen though. Like this

The sand is a Final filtering system before it hits the Sock on the pipe.the sand can move around and adjust if need be if silt clogged the sog you would have a problem then. The sand it will take a lot longer ... and possibly get worked down in size by the sand to a smaller size by the time ti hits the sock on the pipe.
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  #23  
Old 01-02-2008, 10:13 PM
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clyde clyde is offline
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Yea i am actually ... fixing to start studying for my GRE exam.. to go back and get my Masters in Architecture in the next couple of years. You know how it goes once you get a house and stuff.. leaving the real life to go back to Imaginversity isn't soo easy
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  #24  
Old 01-19-2008, 01:37 AM
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JimLewis JimLewis is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SiteSolutions View Post
1.

So I was supposed to backfill with 15' of gravel on that basement I did last summer? And the owner is just supposed to have gravel instead of grass all against his house? The guy said he used the perf pipe with a sock on it, so it's not going to clog.

2.

You're right. Architects have to get a lot more schooling and experience than engineers.

3. It sounds like you did a good job. If the architect wants to change now, it is probably because the owner read something or heard something about how his neighbor Bob used different materials for his drain and he wants the same thing, and he is leaning on the architect. I would tell whoever is signing the checks that I would be glad to to redo the job a different way at my regular rate. Maybe offer a bit of a discount, but in no way lose money when you've already done what was asked. I hate paying people for the pleasure of working on their houses. I would at least make them prove to me it was my fault.
I was going to chime in, but SiteSolutions pretty much summed up exactly what I would have said. This is sound advice.
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  #25  
Old 01-19-2008, 09:54 AM
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clyde clyde is offline
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Little update for all those wandering what happened.

The architect got out there and started digging!

We all met and he never said a word he showed up in bluejeans ( instead of formal as usual) and me and the contractor were like Hmmmm.

I asked him if he had been working out this morning and all he said was i am ready to start digging. I was like well blow me down

So i felt sorry for the guy and helped him for the day and thats all he got out of me.
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  #26  
Old 01-19-2008, 12:30 PM
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SiteSolutions SiteSolutions is offline
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Sounds like he'll be a good architect some day; sounds like he is honest and cares enough about his work... and if he keeps that up, he is bound to get better.
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  #27  
Old 01-19-2008, 12:55 PM
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Dirt Digger2 Dirt Digger2 is offline
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architects don't deal with water. The drain pipe encased in stone does the same thing as the drain fabric, you really don't need both
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  #28  
Old 01-23-2008, 02:28 AM
nathannc nathannc is offline
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Is having a sock over the pipe the preferred method in construction of French Drains? I have been doing some research on French Drains and have not read about this being done. It has been suggested in my reading to line the ditch with landscaping fabric, followed by a gravel base, perforated pipe or slotted pipe, gravel and sand. Sometimes the landscaping fabric is left off. Is including the sock a better method?
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  #29  
Old 01-23-2008, 07:24 AM
AGLA AGLA is offline
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You have to understand how silt is carried in water to understand the best way to deal with it in your situation. Silt is suspended in water. The more turbulent the water, the better it stays in solution. When the water slows or calms the silt falls out of solution.

Water moves fast in smooth pipes and the speed does not slow down if the pipe is at a constant pitch. A perforated pvc pipe (with the two parallel sets of holes) is designed to let water in and them give it a smooth valley to travel in order to carry the suspended material. The water filling up your stone trench is almost certainly not going to be moving faster than it will in the pitched pipe. That maens that the silt should remain in solution untill it leaves the pipe.

A corugated perforated flexible pipe is not going to have a constant slope, the ribs also slow down the water. It is much more likely that you will have silt build up in such a pipe. Putting a sock on the outside will keep silt out, but have you ever had any kind of filter that did not require cleaning or replacement to be effective? Instead of the pipe clogging, the sock clogs. Neither is a picnic to replace.
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