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  #1  
Old 01-09-2008, 06:13 PM
rick427 rick427 is offline
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Dingo 420 Engine Removal Method

Am removing the engine on a Dingo 420TX because compression is practically zero in the RH cylinder but normal in the LH. Probably time for a rebuild, but I'll know for sure when I tear it down after pulling it.

I'm getting bogged down in removing it, not sure what the easiest and quickest way is, and thought I'd throw out a question for those who've done this before. Learning the right way might save me a lot of time.

Do you pull the engine after removing the four mount bolts where the engine is bolted to the underneath plate? I tried loosening one but it spins like there is a nut on the bottom and I see no way to get underneath to get a wrench on it. Already the battery and box, fuel tank, and rear plate have been removed.

Or do you pull the entire under-engine plate off (looks like only four carriage bolts and nuts hold it to the side plates), remove it and the engine as an assembly, and then remove the four engine mounting bolts after they are easier to get to? Doing it this way seems to mean almost all the hydraulic lines would need to be removed first so the plate could come out, something I'm trying to avoid.

Thanks in advance.


- Richard

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  #2  
Old 01-09-2008, 07:02 PM
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P.Services P.Services is online now
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first the undercarriage now the engine!!! you cant catch a break. how many hours on that machine?
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  #3  
Old 01-09-2008, 09:30 PM
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By the looks of the below pic, If you can't get a wrench between the two plates it will have to come too.

If this is the Kohler I think I'd pull the valve cover and check for a loose/bent push-rod first.

Also, If you do end up pulling the plate with the engine I'd stick some shorter screws through the engine mount holes and tack weld the nuts on the bottom for the next engine removal.





Good Luck
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Old 01-10-2008, 01:17 AM
rick427 rick427 is offline
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Picasso, it was a package deal including five attachments for only a little more total than a used bare 420 Dingo typically runs, so buying was a no-brainer, as everyone knows Dingo attachments are the true plums. Knew the engine had problems (so did seller and I bargained him down) and figured even if I had to repower with a new Kohler and do some other work it would still be a great deal. 870 hours and mostly not bashed, cobbled or idiot-rigged. Hydraulics all work fine. Seller had Toro service for the most part. Recent new tracks.

Restrorob, thanks for the info -sorta jives with what I was fearing about being a major pain to pull the engine.

The plug in the bad cylinder was mucked up solid so I'm naturally thinking valve problems or broken rings. Leakdown test seems to point to bad exhaust valve. Pushrods seem straight, but what's weird is there's no lash in the rockers arms at TDC. I thought pulling that RH cylinder head would be easier if the engine were removed first, but now I'm reconsidering. May pull it in place to figure out what's going on. At the very least, a lot of deposits will need to be cleared out of the head.

Thanks,

- Richard



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  #5  
Old 01-10-2008, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick427 View Post
The plug in the bad cylinder was mucked up solid so I'm naturally thinking valve problems or broken rings.

Rick,

These engines are know for blowing head gaskets mostly at the oil return port, This lets the cylinder suck oil in and foul the spark plug as you described.

Also this engine will have no valve lash due to the hydraulic lifters.

If you can weasel the head off that would probably save a lot of time.

In some cases you can't see a full blown out area, But so far with your explanation this sounds like the classic blown head gasket.

Good Luck
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"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #6  
Old 01-10-2008, 09:10 PM
Oldtimer Oldtimer is offline
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We recently replaced an engine on a Dingo and I think the book time was over 10 hours.

We have a Heftee lift plus a fork lift so jobs like this aren't much of a problem but working off the ground would be tough.

This will be a good time to replace worn rollers and to change the hydraulic oil & filter.

Send me a pm if you need any advice.

Oldtimer
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  #7  
Old 01-10-2008, 10:15 PM
rick427 rick427 is offline
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This afternoon I disassembled more of the Dingo to where I could pull the head off with the engine in place. Found a burned exhaust valve, with a small chunk missing along the edge. And from what Restrorob said, I'm suspecting a blown head gasket also, although that wasn't obvious.

I'll probably pull the other head too as long as this much is disassembled, check it out, and hopefully will get off easy this time without needing a complete rebuild or new engine. Bore looks great.

Yeah, Oldtimer, as long as it's down rollers are getting replaced (see my other posting about the improved solid steel Dingo rollers), the hyd fluid and filter changed, and a bunch of minor repairs and adjustments getting done.

Thanks for everyone's advice - you definitely saved me some time and helped me out here.


- Richard



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  #8  
Old 01-10-2008, 11:13 PM
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When you go down to get your parts make sure you get the complete head gasket KIT. You will need a KIT for each side of the engine, The kit comes with new head bolts that should be replaced as well so don't let them sell you gaskets only.
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some times the man in my mirror isn't so smart...
"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2008, 12:32 AM
rick427 rick427 is offline
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Restrorob, if you're old like me and remember "valve grind sets" , this is exactly what I was wondering was available for the Kohler and you just answered my unasked question. I've also downloaded the service manual from Kohler so knew new head bolts are needed.

Is retorquing the head bolts after a few hours use necessary with these small engines?

Thanks again.


- Richard
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2008, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick427 View Post
if you're old like me and remember "valve grind sets"
Well....I'll just say, I've been spinning wrenches over 30 yrs. So yeah I remember the Ole valve grind sets. I have never had any problems with not re-torquing these small engines.
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"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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