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  #1  
Old 01-31-2008, 11:50 AM
p0wd3rp1l0t p0wd3rp1l0t is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Rice Lake, WI
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need help and guidance from experienced

i am new to fertilizing and spraying but i have some general knowledge. i would like to put a spring, summer, fall fertilizing and weed control program together for some of my clients but i honestly dont know where to start. i have been reading for a little while on here but most of the time its over my head and too in depth. i would like to do a 4-5 application program throughout the year-april to october. i would actually really like to talk to someone over the phone about it and ask questions. now i dont need to know all your secrets or anything just looking for a basic outline-someplace to start. any help would be greatly appreciated my cell phone is 715-205-2739 if someone has some spare time to answer a few questions. thanks
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  #2  
Old 01-31-2008, 12:32 PM
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magland magland is offline
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A 4 step program you are looking at an app about every 8 weeks or so. A 5 step about every 6-7 weeks depending on when you start. It's rough to do only a 4 step. The 8 weeks between apps is a long time for bad things to happen. Plus you make more money with the additional app.

Since you are thinking 4 or 5 apps, I would start off with pre-emergent + fert on rd 1. Maybe a 2nd app of the same thing rd 2, depending on the type and strength of the pre-emergent. You could also do a straight fert with some slow release on rd 2 if you use a high rate of barricade or dimension. Either merit + fert or a slow release summer fert for rd 3. Slow release fert for rd 4. Then a fall fert for rd 5. I would spray for weeds as needed throughout the season. It will be cheaper than using a weed & feed product.

That's kind of a basic idea. A lot depends on when you start, what pre-emergent you use, grub control if any, and how many apps. I do a 6 step program starting about April 1 ending about Nov 1. Roughly 5-6 weeks between apps.
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Old 01-31-2008, 12:52 PM
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fertguy2008 fertguy2008 is offline
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Do you have a Lesco, oops I'm sorry, John Deere Landscapes in the neighborhood. Those guys should have some programs they can print out for you.
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  #4  
Old 01-31-2008, 01:26 PM
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Hoots Hoots is offline
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Location: DFW
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License

The best way to start is learning the basics through books.

Second thing is contact your local county ag extension agent about becoming licensed.

Every state is different about licensing. Most if not all states allow you to apply fertilizer only without a license, but when you add a pre-emergent or weed and feed (any chemical) you need a license. Again, this is where your agent comes into play.

If you had a license, most of this information is within the training. (timing, what chem to use etc.)

I am not trying to shoot you down, but obtaining a license is a must. If you are reported by a neighbor or kill something, the fines can be pretty steep.

I hope this helps.
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  #5  
Old 02-01-2008, 03:34 PM
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Paul Klose Paul Klose is offline
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program

From minneapolis so it should be the same as far as time of season is concerned

4-5 app program based on Lesco products

1st app- 19-0-6 fert w/dimension as the pre-m
2nd app- 32-0-10 fert, spot spray for weeds, new customers(blanket)
3rd app- 32-0-10 fert, spot spray for weeds
4th app- 33-0-17 fert, blanket weed control, you do have the option of tank mixing to cut down on labor cost
5th app(optional) 33-0-17 DO NOT TANK MIX or a 46-0-0

this is tried and true with the highest retention rate
let me know if you want a call to explain further
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  #6  
Old 02-04-2008, 11:01 AM
p0wd3rp1l0t p0wd3rp1l0t is offline
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thanks paul thats what i was looking for i just didnt know where to look-i am not good with these computers but i know some of you are and know where to find the information
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  #7  
Old 02-04-2008, 02:37 PM
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Whitey4 Whitey4 is offline
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I agree that a 5 app program is best, but Wisconsin has a shorter growing season.... if carefully planned, 4 apps could work with enough slow release N I think.

I seperate my preM from my first fert application. I like to get my first app down at green up, and wait until the forsythia bloom drop is nearly over for the pre M. That gave me pretty good control last year with only one round of pre emmergent.
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:21 PM
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rcreech rcreech is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitey4 View Post
I seperate my preM from my first fert application. I like to get my first app down at green up, and wait until the forsythia bloom drop is nearly over for the pre M. That gave me pretty good control last year with only one round of pre emmergent.

It is funny that you stated that!

I have had never heard this before last year...and it could be true, but the main indicator of crabgrass control and a very professional approach is to use ground temp and GDD.

I was applying Dimension to one of my customers lawns last year and he told me I was too late to apply a crabgrass preventor because the Forsythia's had already bloomed!

I wasn't sure what to say as I didn't have a clue what he was talking about! So I POLITELY told him that I wasn't sure there was any connection between Forsynthia's and crabgrass but that it was actually still early (as it was still the first week of April) and I also told him that if it made him feel any better that the product I was using has post activity and would work even if I applied a month later.

Just another customer that knows more then us...but I guess long story short, I would use a more scientific/agronomic approach to your crabgrass app rather then the o'l sayings. They are probably not only more accurate, but also it may impress your customer more!

That is just my take!
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2008, 06:25 PM
p0wd3rp1l0t p0wd3rp1l0t is offline
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Location: Rice Lake, WI
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with me living in wisconsin i dont think i would need to worry bout splitting up the pre aps since the ground doesnt soften up til first week of april
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  #10  
Old 02-04-2008, 06:55 PM
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Whitey4 Whitey4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcreech View Post
It is funny that you stated that!

I have had never heard this before last year...and it could be true, but the main indicator of crabgrass control and a very professional approach is to use ground temp and GDD.

I was applying Dimension to one of my customers lawns last year and he told me I was too late to apply a crabgrass preventor because the Forsythia's had already bloomed!

I wasn't sure what to say as I didn't have a clue what he was talking about! So I POLITELY told him that I wasn't sure there was any connection between Forsynthia's and crabgrass but that it was actually still early (as it was still the first week of April) and I also told him that if it made him feel any better that the product I was using has post activity and would work even if I applied a month later.

Just another customer that knows more then us...but I guess long story short, I would use a more scientific/agronomic approach to your crabgrass app rather then the o'l sayings. They are probably not only more accurate, but also it may impress your customer more!

That is just my take!
GDD is the best indicator, I agree. I haven't been measuring soil temps, but will add that to my application schedule this year. The pain in the butt with GDD here is that it can really swing from one location to another only 15 miles away. That shows up in the forsythia bloom as well. Being on an island surrounded by warm gulf stream ocean currents on the south shore, and colder wind temps coming from the north and west, the forsythia bloom can be two weeks behind another place even that close together.

The forsythia bloom tends to be a very acurate localized way to know when to apply pre emergent, especially given the local fluctations around here. Unless I take my own min/max temps every day (which I don't) I have to guess at the 14 to 17 day diffeernce between the two locations the cooperative measures at.
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