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Old 03-25-2008, 09:01 PM
pglover19 pglover19 is offline
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Soil Analysis Report - Opinions Please

I just got my soil analysis report back from the lab today and here are some key takeaways from the report. The analysis was performed by A&L Laboratories in VA. The total sq.footage on my lawn is 22,000 sq. ft.

1. The soil PH level is 6.8. The average for my area is between 6 and 7. Based on that number, the lab explained to me that there was no need to apply lime.
2. The organic matter is 1.0 which was explained to me as not good. This is sandy soil that does not hold water. The average should be 2.5 to 3%. The recommendation is to no bag my grass clipping and apply leafy compose. Well I have an established lawn that is 6 years old and the total square footage is 22,000.
3. The suggested fertilization program is as follows starting in the fall (September) based on my test results:
a. First Application - 10 lbs per 1,000 sq.ft of 10-5-20 fertilizer. That is a
total of 220 lbs of fertilizer for my lawn.
b. Second Application - 10 lbs per 1,000 sq.ft of 10-5-20 fertilizer. That
is a total of 220 lbs of fertilizer for my lawn.
c. Third Application - 8 lbs per 1,000 sq.ft of 21-3-7 fertilizer. That
is a total of 176 lbs of fertilizer for my lawn.


Please post your suggestions/recommendations/insights on what I can do to improve my lawn. If you are unable to see the numbers in the report, please let me know and I will post them...
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:19 PM
pglover19 pglover19 is offline
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Here are more photos
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:57 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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No need for all the inert ingredients--I would use a higher analysis fertiizer--just use less. They suggest no phosphorus needed. So you should use a zero phosphorus fertilizer. They indicate potash is adequate. I would use less potash--say about half as much as nitrogen. It is sandy soil, low in organic matter. It would lose nutrients by leaching quickly. I would use a higher percentage of slow release nitrogen fertilizer --50 percent sulfer coated urea. 75 percent coated would be better. Compared to SCU, methylene urea and IBDU are better quality slow release nitrogen, better results. If you can find slow-release potash--that would improve results.
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:37 PM
pglover19 pglover19 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
No need for all the inert ingredients--I would use a higher analysis fertiizer--just use less. They suggest no phosphorus needed. So you should use a zero phosphorus fertilizer. They indicate potash is adequate. I would use less potash--say about half as much as nitrogen. It is sandy soil, low in organic matter. It would lose nutrients by leaching quickly. I would use a higher percentage of slow release nitrogen fertilizer --50 percent sulfer coated urea. 75 percent coated would be better. Compared to SCU, methylene urea and IBDU are better quality slow release nitrogen, better results. If you can find slow-release potash--that would improve results.
I use strictly LESCO products.. Can you please recommend what LESCO products I need and when I need to apply these products.
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Old 03-26-2008, 12:13 AM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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Are you planning on using combination products such as Fert/Dimension, Fert/Weed Control, Fert/Merit or Fert/Talstar?

I'm with Riggle on both the higher Nitrogen fertilizers (using less pounds per 1,000 sq. ft) and also using higher amounts of slow releasing materials. As long as you use a pound of N for each 1,000 sq. ft. you should be o.k. Because your Phosphorus level is high and it doesn't move through the soil, make sure that your choices contain no phosphorus.

For Organic matter, you may want to try and use a Natural based fertilizer for your summer applications.
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Old 03-26-2008, 07:49 AM
pglover19 pglover19 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
Are you planning on using combination products such as Fert/Dimension, Fert/Weed Control, Fert/Merit or Fert/Talstar?

I'm with Riggle on both the higher Nitrogen fertilizers (using less pounds per 1,000 sq. ft) and also using higher amounts of slow releasing materials. As long as you use a pound of N for each 1,000 sq. ft. you should be o.k. Because your Phosphorus level is high and it doesn't move through the soil, make sure that your choices contain no phosphorus.

For Organic matter, you may want to try and use a Natural based fertilizer for your summer applications.
Cobra,

Yes.. I will be using a combination product. I have been working with you on a lawn care program for my lawn. This was done before the soil analysis test. Please refer to thread
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...76#post2219876

So, based on my soil analysis report, what LESCO products do you recommend now.
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Old 03-26-2008, 04:24 PM
GREENITUP GREENITUP is offline
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Hey PGLover - I like this report....can you tell me how much A&L charges for a soil test?? I have been sending mine to VATech - but don't like the recommendations they put on every time.... they are vague and cause a lot of customer questions.... Thanks for any info
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Old 03-26-2008, 04:36 PM
mbucuk mbucuk is offline
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A&L is very reasonably priced. $7.20 for the basic soil test with no recommendations. I think its an extra dollar or two per test if you want their recommendations. The turn around time from this lab is unbelievable. 2-4 days from the time they receive samples, and they will email the results to you. Very fast and good communication.

I would never use the state lab around here again. The turn around time in my experience has been 2-3 weeks!
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:27 PM
timturf timturf is offline
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At what depth where the soil samples taken?

did you tell the lab what depth you took the samples?

They generally assume a 6" deth!!!
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Old 03-26-2008, 08:47 PM
pglover19 pglover19 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timturf View Post
At what depth where the soil samples taken?

did you tell the lab what depth you took the samples?

They generally assume a 6" deth!!!
Yes.. It was between 6 to 10".
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