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  #21  
Old 04-10-2008, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yardmanlee View Post
have you put any weight in the box to see how it lifts ? leaves and grass can get pretty heavy !!! plus I'm wondering if it will twist
just having the lifting cable on just one side ? just a thought !!

Yep, fastcat is right, I have a winch lifting on each side. They are wired to the same controller, so they work together. They should be able to lift 8000lbs, I dont think grass will be that heavy!
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  #22  
Old 04-10-2008, 02:24 PM
LawnScapers of Dayton LawnScapers of Dayton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMAGE View Post
Doubling up the cable effectively doubles the winches power, because it cuts the line speed by 1/2.
Just a picky detail.....but it doesn't double the winches power. It actually cuts the weight lifted by the winch in half. The other half of the weight is supported where the end of the cable attaches to the post... You have create a 2:1 mechanical advantage.......

Nice work ...by the way......
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  #23  
Old 04-10-2008, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRM Ventures View Post
Just a picky detail.....but it doesn't double the winches power. It actually cuts the weight lifted by the winch in half. The other half of the weight is supported where the end of the cable attaches to the post... You have create a 2:1 mechanical advantage.......

Nice work ...by the way......


Thanks,

I know that, thats why I said:
"Doubling up the cable effectively doubles the winches power, because it cuts the line speed by 1/2"

Which is the same as a 2:1 advantage...
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  #24  
Old 04-10-2008, 05:55 PM
cantoo cantoo is offline
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Image, couple of things. The winch cable hooking point to the bin looks like a round bolt of some sort. Make sure this is a welded bolt and is suitable for the weight you are lifting. I've used that style of winch before and ended up pulling it apart inside. We hooked it between a couple of 4 wheelers to see how strong it was, pulled right apart with very little effort. This means when it breaks it will freewheel causing what ever is up to come down very quickly. Make sure you are nowhere near the bin when you are lifting. You may want to look into a hydraulic setup for the future to be safe.
You might want to hinge the side panel on the inside of the trailer. This way you only have to lift the bins half as far to dump. If you need to fill the bin completely then raise the side up and fill er up. Green grass will pile pretty high so I doubt you will even need to hinge it back up.
I like your setup, we throw ours in the dump truck but we only collect on a couple of properties so it's not too bad.
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  #25  
Old 04-10-2008, 06:17 PM
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cantoo- the bolt is a cast bolt, it has a solid loop, no welding required to close it. It should be plenty strong.

Of course we will use safety when dumping it, but since the winch has power in and power out, I think it should be pretty safe. It's not one of the ones that free spools out. Plus there is 2 winches, and they would both need to fail to have a problem.

As for the sides, I did think of hinging them at the half way point, but since I plan on adding taller sides yet to make a leaf box, I wanted it to be pretty strong. I guess I will just have to see how it goes and it could get some major changes next winter.
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  #26  
Old 04-10-2008, 07:08 PM
lawnproslawncare lawnproslawncare is offline
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So what kind of mower are you using? I'm curious if your using a power dump model or bags.
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  #27  
Old 04-10-2008, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by lawnproslawncare View Post
So what kind of mower are you using? I'm curious if your using a power dump model or bags.
I wish. But I dont want to buy from my local walker dealer. So I have a Lazer Z with 3 bags, and a metro, with the collector.
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  #28  
Old 04-10-2008, 09:41 PM
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yardmanlee yardmanlee is offline
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i noticed the other side a while later but could'nt delete my post. nice fab work !!!!
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  #29  
Old 04-10-2008, 10:43 PM
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Laner Laner is offline
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I see it looks like you build a steel frame and them fastened plastic sheeting to the outside and bottom. How heavy of steel (thickness) did you use? Channel, angle or tubing? This is almost exactly what I am looking to build on my 22 ft trailer, however I would like to be able to remove the box or the side toward the bed area in order to haul long items on the trailer as well. With the setup you have it looks like I could pick the box off with the forks on my skidloader.
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  #30  
Old 04-10-2008, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Laner View Post
I see it looks like you build a steel frame and them fastened plastic sheeting to the outside and bottom. How heavy of steel (thickness) did you use? Channel, angle or tubing? This is almost exactly what I am looking to build on my 22 ft trailer, however I would like to be able to remove the box or the side toward the bed area in order to haul long items on the trailer as well. With the setup you have it looks like I could pick the box off with the forks on my skidloader.

Great minds think alike, but I didnt have time to do it like that. But it could still come off easy.

This is the material I used:

The lower box frame is way overbuilt. The 2 outside rails at the front and back are 2x4 3/16" tube, and the cross tubes are 2x3 1/8" tube. The uprights are just 1" square thin wall tubing to bolt the plywood to, and the sheeting is attached to the plywood.

Let me say that it is way to heavy for what it needs to be. The cross tubes could of easily been 2 x 2 1/8" Angle, would of saved about 40 lbs I am sure. And the outside tubes should of been out of the stuff that the cross tubes are. That would of saved another 40lbs or so.

To take the box off all that needs to be done is pull the hinge pins, and lift it off. If I did it again I would take the time to put fork pockets in the tubes.

This still leaves the back cross brace (winch support) in the way of the trailer deck, but it could be pinned on each side, to make it easily removable also.
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