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  #11  
Old 04-13-2008, 03:53 PM
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ProStreetCamaro ProStreetCamaro is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bard View Post
The factory set of blades do have a lot of lift, a lot more than I am used to. I will order a set of the oregon blades and try. Do you sharpen the blades straight out of the box or after they wear some? Those are nicely sharpened blades that you have in the pics.

The deck is as level as I can possibly get. So the blades may do the trick. I will post back after I put the new set on and try it out. Thanks everyone for their suggestions and if anyone comes up with anymore just let me know and I will try it. I am ready to solve this issue because this is an awesome mower and I know this deck will cut nice.

I like to sharpen new blades before I put them on. They seem to never be real sharp when they are new. I use an Oregon dedicated blade grinder and thats why the blades you see in my picture look so nice. It puts a perfect edge and angle on them every time I sharpen them.
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  #12  
Old 04-13-2008, 06:36 PM
bard bard is offline
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I looked at mowpart and saw the blades for the m48 but failed to see one for the m54. The only length that may work is 18.5. Is that the same as the 19" blades that was referred to? What lift is that blade, a medium lift or low lift?
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  #13  
Old 04-14-2008, 01:01 PM
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I am using the 18.5 inch blades on my mower at this time. It gives me no problem with uncut strips or skips etc. I am a little curious how you are measuring the 1/16" pitch and yet say the deck is level.

I don't need a level to set the deck and here is how I measure mine after I have adjusted it. Put the mower on a level slab of concrete, get your book out and make the adjustments per the book. Now measure the final adjustments again -- the deck is not level fore and aft because of the pitch. The difference in the pitch is the reason for the difference in the height of the blades which should be higher at the tip at the rear (with the blade pointing fore and aft).
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2008, 02:26 PM
gandk06 gandk06 is offline
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I was wondering that about the length. I just ordered a set of oregon blades from mowpart for my 54" tank and noticed that they are about 1/2" shorter than the original cub blades. I ordered what I thought were the same length blades as the original and they sent me shorter blades. So are you saying that is not a mistake, that is what the blade lenght should be? Or should I send them back?

thanks
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  #15  
Old 04-14-2008, 07:52 PM
J.A.G LAWNCARE J.A.G LAWNCARE is offline
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sounds short to my , thats what she said...........
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  #16  
Old 04-14-2008, 08:55 PM
bard bard is offline
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When I say level, I mean right to left. I have a 16th pitch from front to back with the front being the lowest point. I know I could get more pitch but if I adjust for it; the right to left gets out so I have settled on this. The cut should be better with lower pitch, it will just bog down the engine more in tall thick grass stands. I do not use a level to adjust the deck I measure from my level concrete slab to the tip of the cutting blade. I just put a level on the deck to make sure there was no warp in the deck. With fabricated decks warping is possible with the stressing of the metal during manufacturing, but the deck is perfectly true.

As far as the oregon blades, I did not order them because of the blades being shorter, both my sets are 16th under 19" and the oregon ones are 18.5" which probably will not solve my problem.
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  #17  
Old 04-14-2008, 09:49 PM
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tacoma200 tacoma200 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProStreetCamaro View Post
Mine did that when we first got it. It was because the dealer didnt level and pitch the deck correctly on ours. Once I set it right it cut great. What I have found is the cheap Oregon blades actually cut better than the factory blades do. Have you noticed how much suction the factory blades create? With the factory blades mine created so much vacum that it would suck the mulch out of the beds if I was a couple inches away. I think this causes to much turbulance under the deck. The oregon blades dont create as much suction and it cuts cleaner due to less turbulance under the deck.


Here you can see how cleanly ours cuts deep wet northern fine fescue turf. This was cut at 3" with oregon blades. Tell us about the Oregon blade grinder (HP, price, time to sharpen a blade, does it go in reverse, etc).





Here you can see the oregon blades after I sharpened them. Notice how the air foil doesnt have as much lift as the factory blades.


I don't know if I'm more impressed with the cut or the nice edge you put on your blades.
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  #18  
Old 04-14-2008, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacoma200 View Post
I don't know if I'm more impressed with the cut or the nice edge you put on your blades.

The Oregon blade grinder does a fantastic job. Some people like to cut on it because its not a "magna matic" but I paid hmmmmm $326 less than the mag 9000 and $800 less than the mag 8000
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  #19  
Old 04-14-2008, 10:30 PM
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Well the book says 19" on the blades but I bought one set at Tractor Supply for Cub Cadet Riding Mower 54" and they are 18-1/2" and I bought the same blades at Lesco last year 18-1/2" for about half the price and both are high lift and work just fine for me.

Where on the left side is your mower leaving the strip? Is is near the edge of the deck or does it appear to be in the area between the center and left blades ?

If you are leaving that strip close to the edge of the deck try moving your return path closer to the previous pass.

Oh another thing raise your mower and look under the deck -- is there any buildup of wet grass there ?

Nosmo
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  #20  
Old 04-14-2008, 11:27 PM
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whoopassonthebluegrass whoopassonthebluegrass is offline
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I don't have your mower, but I had uncut grass at one point. Ended up being a piece of the baffling that had gotten bent somehow. Welded it back together and all was fine. Something to double check...
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