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  #11  
Old 05-31-2008, 02:47 AM
haroldchevelle haroldchevelle is offline
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: fayetteville,ar
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the number i have off the new bearing out of the new lower crank case is -germany pap 40 20 p10 pl.you may have to go to an industrial supply shop.
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  #12  
Old 09-22-2008, 03:04 PM
jase4tiff jase4tiff is offline
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Location: Inman Sc
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thanks for at number harold is that out of a 23 hp kaw?
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  #13  
Old 09-23-2008, 01:54 AM
haroldchevelle haroldchevelle is offline
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the motor i have is a 2001 23 hp. kaw, fh-680v-bso1. the bearing that i used came from an o.e lower crank case housing , "new" correct for that motor , that number is on the bearing itself. a teflon coated press fit bearing . but it don't take that much to tap it in .it was a great fix , because i have about 100 hrs on that fix now.
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  #14  
Old 09-23-2008, 02:20 AM
mowermankevin mowermankevin is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Burleson,Texas 76028
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Kawa Top Bearing

Harold, As you can see your need has helped others, way to go, without getting too political, any way I can find to help my guys keep going and screw the corporations,more power to us. Remember when machines were designed to be user friendly? Take the ol' Suzuki 2 cycles on the Toro 21's, had a notch cut out of the cup so if the rope broke, just pull the recoil and tie a knot in the rope and keep mowing, what machine has that today? I'm so dang tired of the crap their peddling today, but I guess it's what you grew up with, that's all you know,hope all these young'ngs can hang tough to get old in this business, cause it's tough enough for ol' farts like me, trying to pass it on to the kids.
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  #15  
Old 09-23-2008, 08:47 AM
jase4tiff jase4tiff is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Inman Sc
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Harold when you pulled your crank for the first time how bad or was it scored at all where that top crank bearing rides? i belive that mine is mabie wore to bad if i try to smooth it out i may just make it worse so im not sure i may just have to replace it. I was just wondering what you had done and what was your experience. Thanks!
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  #16  
Old 09-28-2008, 11:21 PM
haroldchevelle haroldchevelle is offline
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Location: fayetteville,ar
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on my crank, the upper main bearing surface was discolored,felt ruff and looked bad.so i took a pieace of 320 grit sand paper and by hand cleaned it up . but it still had a few small lines around the surface i did'nt want to buy a new crank .so i took the new bushing and compaired it to the bottom main, and they were pretty much the same.but if yours is very loose it will beat out the oil seal, and other problems . it can have a little gap,but i don't know what the factory specs,are. i've seen cranks live a long time loose with blue spots and scratches as long as they run around the surface not across .
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  #17  
Old 09-29-2008, 12:42 AM
jase4tiff jase4tiff is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Inman Sc
Posts: 56
I looked up that part number you listed and found that it was a INA bearing so i found a local shop to order them from. What i came up with was that the number you listed is for the size on the bottom which of course is what you ordered. When you pressed out the top bushing you probably saw that it was bigger by 5mm. So with that part number PAP 40 20 P10 it would be 5mm to small INA doesnt make that bushing in a 25mm so i went to a PAP 40 30 P10 and will just surface grind it down 5mm. But i am in the same boat you were i dont want to put this thing back together and blow oil seals. Im just not sure how much clearence i can have on the main and the bushing since mine did take some abuse and has some groves cut in the crank i did take some 180 grit and knocked some of them down a little and buffed it back out. Im just a little uneasy about putting it back together not knowing if its to much play. But thanks alot for that part number you provided that saved me alot of trouble!
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  #18  
Old 02-23-2010, 09:19 PM
D C D C is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 78
Oh Joy!
(sorry to bump an old thread, but it seems to be the authority on this issue)

I have an '04 Cub Cadet with a FH680V-BS18 with 380 hours that has the lovely top seal/bushing problem.

Pulled into my shop last night after doing some plowing (gotta love the zero turn donuts & powerslides in the snow!!) and today there's a nice layer of oil on top of the melted snow. Looks like it'll be sitting for another month until I can get around to fixing it.

If I go with the PAP bushing and cut it down to the right length, what else is required? Several other engine gaskets? And how much of the engine needs to be disassembled to get to it? The diagram looks like the top case houses pretty much everything (cylinders, pistons, crank, etc...)

Plan B: Upgrade time! Considering all of the issues with the KAW's maybe it's time for something else. How can I find out the crankshaft specs for this particular model? 1"? 1 1/8"? length?

Thanks!
Dave
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  #19  
Old 02-23-2010, 11:00 PM
D C D C is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Howell, MI
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Part B of this question:
Is there any reason to NOT just ditch the KAW and install a 24Hp Briggs for $550 instead?
http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/...gines4381.html

4 5/16 shaft is long enough. Just make an adapter plate to adjust for engine mount bolt pattern differences and thick enough to adjust for the shaft length business and I should be all set, no?

Btw, this is essentially a homeowner/light commercial use. My son mows my lawn and a few others, including the subdivision park. Can't imagine the Briggs wouldn't hold up well enough. Put on under 100 hours in the past year.
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2010, 07:50 PM
crook038 crook038 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Rochester, MA
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I just traveled down this road with my fh680d motor. The bushing in the case and the cover are the same size. You can order the bushing from Kawasaki and replace it your self and save big $. If your replacing the bushing in the case cover it is relatively easy. Disassemble the engine to the point where you can remove the case cover. Remove the retaining ring after pulling the oil seal out. Cut a groove in the old bushing so that you have a step to seat an old chisel or drift on so you can force it out from the inside pushing out. Now clean everything well and press in the new bushing so it sits just below the retaining ring, replace the retaining ring and oil seal. Reassemble after you check the crank for any rough spots, polish with 1600 sand paper. If you need to replace the bushing in the crank case you need to disassemble the whole engine and follow the above procedure. The crank case bushing does not have a retaining ring, it is an interference fit. BOTH BUSHINGS ARE THE SAME SIZE! Kawasaki 92139-7009 Here are some pictures.













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