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  #11  
Old 07-24-2008, 10:47 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themow View Post
i cleaned the damn thing and blew it out again with compressed air and still the same. It seemed the needle wasnt lifting up enough so i took it apart again and tried to make a minor adjustment to it but still nothing. It smokes at full throttle.....
Probably the aluminum tab on the diaphram that operates that needle. They wear with time and don't let enough gas in. I guess you are sure that the crankshaft seal are all in place(no obvious leaks). I am not familiar with your model but almost ALL echo units have two adjustment screws that are hidden on them. And even if they don't the jet can be adjusted go to a shop.
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2008, 12:53 PM
themow themow is offline
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ok so im at a stand still because ill throw the thing away before dumping any money into it....put that money towards a new high end unit but if i come across a carb cheap ill let all know
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2008, 08:47 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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Maybe try a carb repair kit...it is easy to put in.
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  #14  
Old 07-25-2008, 09:10 PM
themow themow is offline
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yea i was thinking maybe a repair kit and a rebuild kit... what about a problem in the driveline??? ive never really had any issues with them but have heard about them causing problems.

Last edited by themow; 07-25-2008 at 09:16 PM.
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  #15  
Old 07-27-2008, 12:15 AM
echoman8 echoman8 is offline
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echo gt

I have had problems with the "so called" primer bulb on echos and other small 2 cycle engines.

The bulb does not prime the carb, it just loads it with fuel if it is empty. To do this, it has 2 rubber valves (duckbill valves). With age they quit working.

I remove the bulb, cut a piece of plastic (freezer bag), place between the bulb and carburetor housing, then put the bulb (and metal plate) on.

This disables the primer(actually purge pump) and you will have to depend on the choke to start (cold start only) just like it was in 1990 and before.

The duckbill valves allow air to enter the carb irratically (when bad).

de
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  #16  
Old 07-27-2008, 09:16 AM
lubricity lubricity is offline
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Bad compression, not the carb
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  #17  
Old 08-01-2008, 07:15 PM
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jkilov jkilov is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lubricity View Post
Bad compression, not the carb
Exactly my thought. Particularly if it's blue smoke on full throttle.

If I'm not mistaken some echo's have a single ring piston, so wear out quickly
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  #18  
Old 08-01-2008, 11:11 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkilov View Post
Exactly my thought. Particularly if it's blue smoke on full throttle.

If I'm not mistaken some echo's have a single ring piston, so wear out quickly
Don't believe so....single ring just came out. Never had an Echo that lost compression unless the crank seals were worn and popped out. Guess it can happen though if correct lube not used.
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  #19  
Old 08-02-2008, 12:22 AM
Nuconcepts Nuconcepts is offline
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crank seals almost never pop out and if they do its most likely for a reason such as bearings getting worn , you will not lose compression with blown crank seals as compression is created in the top end of the motor not the bottom. the seals just create a vacuum in the combustion process. If your crankseals are blown you will suck air and eventually blow your motor. diaphragms get weak in the carb you need a rebuild kit or a carb
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  #20  
Old 08-02-2008, 06:56 AM
lubricity lubricity is offline
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We use synthetic oil and just rebuilt 7 units. They run like new now.
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