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  #31  
Old 08-12-2008, 03:43 PM
echoman8 echoman8 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: west Texas
Posts: 269
Quote:
Originally Posted by themow View Post
I took a compression test today. It read 110 psi. I have been using it as is. Fine for smaller stuff but not enough poweer for thick things. The trimmer was made from 86-88 and it has 2 rings. When i initially pulled the exhaust and the spark plug off i found lots of carbon. I thought that maybe i had a stuck ring but i guess thats not the case.
When you block off the primer bulb, is it due to a lean condition. I dont believe its running lean due to the excess smoke although it is a bit hesitant to rev down which i know to be a trait of running lean. Im fairly convinced its a carb problem but i dont want to invest in a repair and rebuild kit if the inner seals are shot.
I'm getting old and senile.

What you have posted definitely indicate a rich condition rather than lean.

I have had erratic problems when the valves in the purge pump are bad. I do not remember a consistent rich problem though. The long comedown on throttle has happened, but most of the time it causes me to adjust the carb often. It will usually run lean for a while, then rich, lean, rich .......

OK what can cause it to run rich? Too much fuel or too little air.

Since it has a preset jet for high, the only thing that can happen to the jet is to get stopped up or partially blocked (lean condition).

The fuel is restricted until it gets to the needle in the carb. So, this is the only place it can get too much fuel. I have already covered the needle lever adjustment.

I have two guesses.
a: The metering needle is damaged on the tip allowing too much fuel in.
b: The carb is off of a larger trimmer/saw. Check throttle butterfly screws for screwdriver marks.

Too little air. The only place the air is restricted is at the air filter.

Out of the box thoughts. There is a vent hole on the metal cover that captures the metering diaphragm (needle side). Make sure it is not stopped up. The carb depends on a vent hole through the cylinder and into the crankcase to get vacuum and compression which flutters the diaphragms. The hole into the cylinder will be where the intake gasket mounts. Should crud partially block this hole allowing pressure (and not vacuum) to the metering diaphragm, the needle would remain open. Not likely, but your problem is not common.

I hope you solve it and please post the solution if you do. It is very unusual to have a rich problem without a quick solution.

Good luck
echoman
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  #32  
Old 08-12-2008, 06:08 PM
mngrassguy mngrassguy is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Maple Grove, Mn
Posts: 2,167
Maybe a dumb question but have you replaced the fuel lines? Mixed fresh gas?
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  #33  
Old 08-12-2008, 06:57 PM
themow themow is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: wood jrz
Posts: 41
tried fresh gas but didnt replace the lines

echoman, i made sure i cleaned the vent hole, i thouht that it may have been my problem but it wasnt. im going to go outside and fool around with the needle. I know the carb is the one that came with the unit
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  #34  
Old 08-12-2008, 07:15 PM
themow themow is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: wood jrz
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Im going to make sure the needle isnt lifting up too soon. Im pretty sure the tip of the needle is in good condition. This has become more of a personal battle than anything else now...i dont want to lose.....Should i invest in a rebuild and repair kit??
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  #35  
Old 08-12-2008, 11:10 PM
echoman8 echoman8 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: west Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themow View Post
Im going to make sure the needle isnt lifting up too soon. Im pretty sure the tip of the needle is in good condition. This has become more of a personal battle than anything else now...i dont want to lose.....Should i invest in a rebuild and repair kit??
Hi, Yea, this thing is personal with me now too.

Yes, I would invest in a carb kit. And I would at least try putting a piece of plastic under the purge bulb. I cut a piece of freezer bag, poke a couple of holes in it for the bolts, place it underneath the bulb and plate and bolt it down.

Since you are buying only one carb kit, seems like some local place would cost the same because of shipping. A friendly mechanic in a shop will have some good used diaphragms he has saved and may give some to you when asked. This happens often. I have several hundred new and barely used diaphragams my self.

Good luk Echoman



If you are determined to not buy the kit, then at least soak the diaphragms in Berryman carb cleaner. Soak them to the point that they are no longer stiff. If you soak them too long, they will expand. This is a temporary fix. In a few days, the diaphragms will stiffen again, but, they will work properly temporarily.

Im going to a jobsite in the texas mountains tomorrow. Dont know when I will be back online. But keep me posted.

Stick in there you will win,
de
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