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  #81  
Old 10-29-2013, 01:29 PM
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jkilov jkilov is offline
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Originally Posted by exmarkking View Post
so could I run the motul 800 at 4oz per 2.5 gallons?
Don't use either version of Motul 800, it's racing oil. With a 2-3x higher viscosity it will drag your engine when cold and a flash-point of 500+F just won't burn cleanly.

If you have to use Motul, go with 710 and mix at 50:1.

On the side note Shindaiwa red armor is good but at 70-80% synthetic content it's not as good as other full-synthetics.
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  #82  
Old 10-30-2013, 06:23 PM
WayneJessie WayneJessie is offline
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There is no such thing as a "full" synthetic hence MSDS showing mineral oil content of up to 20%. Even oils marketed as full synthetics require up to 20% mineral oil content for it's additive carrier abilities. PAO as well as Esther synthetics are notorious for additive "fallout". They cannot keep antiwear and dispersant additive suspended in solution like mineral oils can. The distinction between "synthetic" and conventional oils is minimal today with the latest additives. A mineral oil with top-notch additives can outperform a "synthetic" with average or lesser additives. It's NOT the base oil that determines the oil's ability to get the job done nearly as much as whether the oil uses top-tier additives or not. Amsoil, Mobil, and others all have to use some mineral oil whether it's listed as such in the MSDS or not.
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  #83  
Old 10-30-2013, 06:51 PM
GrassGuerilla GrassGuerilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkilov View Post
Don't use either version of Motul 800, it's racing oil. With a 2-3x higher viscosity it will drag your engine when cold and a flash-point of 500+F just won't burn cleanly.

If you have to use Motul, go with 710 and mix at 50:1.

On the side note Shindaiwa red armor is good but at 70-80% synthetic content it's not as good as other full-synthetics.
It's good enough to make JASO FD rating. I believe that is the highest standard on the market no? I've run a six pack of it. It's not my regular. I've actually run mostly Echo power blend (also FD rated) for a long time.

I have a couple Stihl 4-mix motors. Both one extended length hedge trimmer, the other a polesaw. Since so many have had issue with carbon build up, I've decided to try to run Stihl ultra through them since it was designed for them. I have several times ran both Shin red armor, or Echo power blend. Both burned fine. Neither machine objected.

I went so far as to make my own ethanol free fuel since none is available locally. While simple enough, it has some environmental negative impact (I.E. what to do with the ethanol laden water). I found it to be impractical for everyday use. I still do it for my 4-mix with Ultra mix.

In short, daily use stuff works fine on 89 octane pump gas and most any FD rated mix. The problems start with occasional use tools, or any long term storage. I'd attribute much more of the issue to the ethanol in the fuel than the oil.
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  #84  
Old 11-02-2013, 03:24 PM
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jkilov jkilov is offline
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Chemistry aside, I agree most oils noted here are good, be it group III, V or whatever base stock and XYZ additive package.

But there's clearly a difference in what some oils are designed for:

Shindaiwa Red Armor and Motul 710 2T seem to be designed for "normal running" 2-stroke engines, i.e. the one's we use. Their specifications are very close, both are JASO FD rated (hence burn clean) and deciding between the two is a matter of preference.

Motul 800 is designed for racing applications. Racing engines run hot, are warmed up on idle and don't need to be clean. I'm pretty sure the 800 is not FD rated (correct me if I'm wrong) in fact like many racing oils (i.e. Klotz) has no certification at all, except the usual label that it surpasses all existing standards (as to which they mean is anybody's guess). To put it shortly: would you put 15W-40 or SAE 40 oil in an engine that calls for 0W-20?

I have no idea where Stihl's Ultra fits in. It seems to be designed for the 4-MIX or whatever special need that engine has. It's not FD rated (probably because it wouldn't pass) and yes my hedge trimmers can tell the difference (as can my wife by the stench when I come home). Hedge trimmers sometimes work in situations where they ingest their own exhaust, for whatever reason Stihl Ultra does not suit that situation.
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Ferris IS3100Z 61" L Kaw, Hydrocut 36" 13hp Kaw
Shindaiwa T3410, EB8520 Maruyama HT2300, MS047
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  #85  
Old 11-02-2013, 04:07 PM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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I'm confused on how much motul 710 2t to mix with a gallon.
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  #86  
Old 11-04-2013, 10:57 AM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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Anyone know how much motul 710 2t to add to 1 gallon?
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  #87  
Old 11-04-2013, 11:02 AM
GrassGuerilla GrassGuerilla is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exmarkking View Post
Anyone know how much motul 710 2t to add to 1 gallon?
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Your missing a key piece... What is your desired ratio? For 50:1 2.6oz/gallon. For 40:1 3oz/gallon. Ratio stays the same regardless of brand etc.
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  #88  
Old 11-04-2013, 11:05 AM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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What ratio do you recommend for handhelds? The opti-2 I was running doesn't even list a ratio...I think someone said it was 100:1. I just want to mix it at a safe rate. I think for my calculations the motul 710 2-t will be cheaper than the opti-2 to run and probably better for the engines.
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  #89  
Old 11-04-2013, 11:42 AM
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exmarkking exmarkking is offline
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The opti-2 is mixed at 1.5 oz per gallon. Wonder is it would be safe to mix the motul at that rate?
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  #90  
Old 11-04-2013, 12:29 PM
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ProStreetCamaro ProStreetCamaro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkilov View Post
Wish I had taken a picture, but after cleaning the exhaust ports on both hedge trimmers I'm not looking at Stih'l Ultra again.

These seem to have the most problems, first one is a maruyama and the second a husqvarna with basically the same engine. When working in confined spaces, the engines breathe their own exhaust making them smoke. And both do it much worse on Ultra than other oils.

I doubt the oil itself is that bad, but it seems to be designed exclusively for the 4-MIX to address it's lack of exhaust valve lubrication.

In any case Motul 710 or Castrol TTS have worked much better for and are cheaper.



Amsoil saber at 80:1 to the rescue. I used to have to clean exhaust ports and mufflers at least twice a year. Switched the saber about 5 years ago when we bought our BR600 and have no touched an exhaust port or muffler on anything. Haven't changed any spark plugs or adjusted the BR600 valves either. It is the only 2 cycle I will run in my equipment now. Many good oils on the market but when I have this much success with a product I stick with it because nothing else on the market can possibly provide any better results. The saber has made our 2 cycle equipment maintenance free.
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