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#1
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1st time homeowner**
I know, you guys probably get a ton of these but I am in a pinch to get some advice from some pro's instead of co-workers with dead lawns that claim they know how to grow grass.
I live in west central Wisconsin on the I94 corridor. I bought my very first home. I know nothing about yards except they should be green. Mine is not. I have a 1/4 acre corner lot that gradually slopes down the front, down the back but has a fairly steep side. Probably a 15-20 foot drop over roughly 40ft. I am not a surveyor so I could be off. I do not own and really cannot justify a riding tractor due to the hill on the side of the house and some landscaping. Plus it only takes an hour to push mow and I am fine with that. I have tons of questions. Please bear with me. 1. My yard had some kind of grass in it. I am assuming it was green at one time. It is growing in 2 places. Under the deck and by the entry way where it is shaded. My guess is the yard was either severely neglected or it was the wrong breed of grass. So, how do I know what I had, and is there harm in seeding with a more robust breed that won't die in the sun? If so, what kind of grass should I grow? 2. I am fairly certain this house was built on old farmland. I am in Wisconsin and most houses in rural towns are but, there was some kind of field here. The soil is dark brown, but its not dirt but its not clay. Its kind of a bit of both, leaning more towards dirt. Will this affect or be a deciding factor on what kind of grass to use? 3. Winter is approaching. I am not sure what to do to prep this thing I call a yard. Right now the only thing growing is weeds. I have not even had to mow it in almost 4 weeks. I am guessing I should kill the weeds first. I am fine with that, but how? I could probably have someone come out and do it but I would rather do it myself. What do I use? I have dandelion, something that grows in ditches that looks kind of like a ******ed wheat, and something that looks like aloe with very prickly thorns. 4. I was told that I should dethatch aerate and seed. If I kill the weeds I would assume that I have to wait a bit before seeding. Should I even bother? If I detatch and aerate and the seed does not take, I would prefer to not have my lawn wash into the street in the spring? Should I seed and deal with the weeds in the spring? Deal with the weeds not and forget the grass till spring? 5. Watering. I don't have a lawn yet but I am watering various places in the yard to see if I can get something to come back. My question is, how much is too much water? Is there a preferred sprinkler? I live in a quiet neighborhood and right now I have the back and forth wooshing sprinkler that grandma used to let me run through? Any issues with that kind of sprinkler or should I be using the CH CH CH kind? (sorry, I don't know the technical names) If there is no advantage to one over the other I like the quiet one. I have city water if that makes a difference. I did have a 2nd water meter installed so I dont have to pay sewer. Water is 2.50 per 1000 gallons. I have a decent budget for the yard so I am not afraid to let the sprinklers run. I am sure I will have more questions. Thanks in advance to anyone that makes it through this rather large and boring post. |
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#2
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2. 3. A broadleaf herbicide would probably be the best controling your dandelions, and your spiky aloe plant (guessing a type of thistle). But I'd need a picture of your ****** wheat thing LOL to ID it. 4. Aerating yes, detaching northern grasses should not really need it, but maybe require from time to time if you keep letting your lawn grow long and then mowing it repeating the process over and over again will let that layer of cut grass, known as the thach build up. I wouldn't seed unless you really need to grass will generally fill in on its own. 5.Watering. I always go on the assumption that 1 Acre of lawn needs about 1 inch of water equals 20,000 gallons of water. With city water there maybe watering restrictions, I don't know for your area, but your local town/village/city hall should have them listed in there ordinances. Any sprinkler really works but I'd pick up a few more to water the lawn at once instead of to keep moving them around all the time. Hope this helps you a bit
__________________
Landscape Engineering Services Enrolled in MATC's Landscape Horticulturist Program. US Army 996th (Heavy) Engineers 12N "...the only easy day was yesterday...." Picture Thread: http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...ight=army+pics |
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#3
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Talk to your local Lesco or Co-op about the best seed to use in your area. Also, get a good slow release starter fertilizer to do at the same time.
Don't dethatch but aerate this fall after the lawn gets some good rain or watering. Aeration is also a great way to prepare the lawn for seed. Seed now before Sept 15th. If you can't do it by then, don't do it at all. Now would be the best time to spray weeds but you can't seed for a week after spraying. Never mow shorter than 3". The old type sprinkler works well but "throwing" water way up in the air loses a lot of water to evaporation. Rotor type sprinklers get the water out there a lot cheaper. Ever think about having an in-ground sprinkler system installed? They pay for themselves after a few short years because they require a lot less water to keep the lawn green. NEVER water in the evening. Stop watering early enough so the grass can dry before it gets dark. I hope this helps. Good luck
__________________
“Give a person a fish and you feed them for a day; teach that person to use the Internet and they won't bother you for weeks.” |
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#4
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BTW, pics would help.
__________________
“Give a person a fish and you feed them for a day; teach that person to use the Internet and they won't bother you for weeks.” |
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#5
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I will work on picts.
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#6
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OK, here are some picts. Mostly death and some not so friendly...umm things.
Do I have to spray or can I use a dry mix to kill this? What about the dead stuff. Can I really seed over that without a raking or dethatching? This is pretty much my yard. |
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#7
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Oh one more question. There was something on the news about a grass that stays green even when its dormant. I missed the name. Anyone know?
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#8
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Ahh, in-ground sprinkler...yes, I thought about it. Being as this is my first home, there are plenty of other things I need to sink my cash into right now. Finish the basement for instance. someday though. |
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#9
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I typically do not like letting my grass grow long. I actually enjoy mowing...or I enjoy not listening to the other half for an hour...either way I like to mow. I have not lately because nothing is growing and I can't see where I have been and its dusty. The water is not going to be an issue. Moving the sprinklers? I can have the g/f help. Because I would never turn on the water when she is close to it. ![]() Recommendation on a herbicide? I am a DIYer. |
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#10
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For a herbicide: For your broadleaved weeds anything with 2-4D in it should work. I don't know if you have a Farm and Fleet by you but they sell a product called Anime (Think thats the name) works a lot better than that crap at Walmart. The 4th pic down that is Foxtail, which is a grass like plant and a broadleaf herbicide won't work. Another tip: I know your a 1st home owner and the plants at big box stores seem like a really really really good deal at times, avoid them at all costs. Support your local Nursery/Greenhouses, not just support the little guy but their employee's have better knowledge in plants, they usually have "Home Grown" plants and fair better in Wisconsin's weather. Edit: also the big box marts grass seed sucks to... I did a germination test to one of those little lawn fix it kits and got maybe about 60% germination out of it.
__________________
Landscape Engineering Services Enrolled in MATC's Landscape Horticulturist Program. US Army 996th (Heavy) Engineers 12N "...the only easy day was yesterday...." Picture Thread: http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...ight=army+pics |
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