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  #31  
Old 09-30-2008, 07:40 PM
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JimQ JimQ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatjack View Post
I'll add my .02 to this one with a reminder that as you sharpen your blades... YOU MAKE THEM SHORTER!! We've had a few lively discussions here about this and some remained unconvinced.

Actually, sharpening doesn't make the actual length of the blade shorter, but it makes the cutting width of the blade shorter (the diagonal) until the blades no longer overlap and you get your uncut strip down the middle.

Ferris used to sell a "radius end" blade that addressed this issue and did NOT get shorter as it was sharpened, but I don't think they offer them anymore. Check with your dealer.

FJ
This is not debatable. It's fact. What is debatable is the impact it will have on cut quality. Worst case, the shortest a 21" blade can get is 20.78". That reduces blade overlap by .43"

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  #32  
Old 09-30-2008, 07:56 PM
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bigbutch bigbutch is offline
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I have the same thing with my XMARK. If the grass is long and wet I get a row in the middle. I have to clean under the deck and sharpen the blades. We cut a lot of small sticks and the blades get dull quickly. I would like to fiend better blades.
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  #33  
Old 09-30-2008, 08:30 PM
Ramairfreak98ss Ramairfreak98ss is offline
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southern.. I have a similar model, different deck but have had the same problem at times.

Its the 15hp/34" simplicity pacer machine. When going full speed ~4.5mph, and the grass is either wet or heavy or tall, it will leave a patch for some reason just because it like pushes it over. I think in my situation on this machine, the suction on the deck is perfect in most areas, "except" this middel portion near where my tiny 10" blade spins at the left and the bigger 16" blade spins on the right side, maybe turbulence and deck design?

Your ferris hydro has a totally different deck though so i'd assume talking to otther Wright stander 34" owners that its a flaw in the physics more so of the deck size, the 2 blade design or many things combined related to size and geometry.

If you figure anything out let me know. The simplicity deck has "plates that sit "under" the very tips of where the blade spins to create a funnel like for mulching more, it sucks though for real tall grasses, makes it cut unevenly.
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  #34  
Old 09-30-2008, 08:31 PM
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Southernlandscape343 Southernlandscape343 is offline
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Ramair, you may want to try the gator blades if you have not already. That really sounds like what would also happen when the grass was a little wet. I cut two yards that are really thick bermuda wet the other day and had no problems. The only grass that would show up after the cut was where I would turn around or back the mower up, but that was easy just to use the blower and blow the left over grass onto the ground.
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Last edited by Southernlandscape343; 09-30-2008 at 08:37 PM.
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  #35  
Old 09-30-2008, 10:01 PM
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mr mow mr mow is offline
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ok guys!!! what fatjack, jimq, myself are trying to say is .43(jim Q excellent diagram) does make a difference...that equals more than 3/4" (.86... .75=3/4")at most possible wear of overlap. They truely dont overlap though! My point is when sharpen, keep blade as parallel to back side of blade through out. The diagram that JIM Q provided(second pic) illustrates blade tip loss. That my friends is where the most cutting occurs.
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  #36  
Old 04-14-2009, 09:11 PM
mikes280z mikes280z is offline
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i think some ferris mowers don't have a really good blade tip speed. and if you have regular lift. or grass only blades. you may solve your problem with a hi lift. either way hi lift generaly gives a better cut. pluss sucks up much more come cleanup time
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  #37  
Old 02-14-2010, 10:25 PM
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Southernlandscape343 Southernlandscape343 is offline
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Bringing this thread back to life.. I've sprayed silicone lubricant under the deck, PAM cooking spray.. I keep the blades nice and sharp, and still have this problem. I regularlly grease the spindles. I keep the blades balanced. I went with the Gator high lift blades last year.. It seemed to help some, but I still have the problem. I am not cutting at a fast pace, so I know thats not the issue. Heck I've inched it along and it does it still.
I have lost most of my clients due to the economy and them having to save their money and cut their own yard.. So I am not cutting nearly as many yards as I should be.
Then again right now the bermuda is still dormant(sp)
The John Deere dealership that I bought it from is no longer around. There is another local shop, but they don't service ferris mowers. I had the guy at the local shop look up what size blades the 32 hydrocut uses. He gave me exactly what the book said size wise. My belt is showing some wear but I don't think it is quite enough to make it start leaving spots uncut.. It's supossed to snow here tonight and then we might have freezing rain tomorrow. So I will take some pictures of under the deck along with the belt.

Anyone have any other ideas?
The mower didnt start so I bought some of this "Blaster" small engine stuff that you remove the spark plugs.. and spray in the spark plug hole for 20 seconds.. then replace the sparkplug but do not connect the lead to the plug. (did this for both spark plugs) It then states to use the pull start and do that a few times.. supossed to lubricate the cylinders. It got out a bunch of carbon deposits.. but I could not get my mower started again until I bought new plugs and added seafoam to the gas.. The mower is up and running now thanks to seafoam and new spark plugs. I've let it burn through about one full tank of gas and let it smoke like its supossed to. seems to be running smoother now.. now I just need to get the issue with the uncut spots figured out while I have down time.

*** Please note that I do not in any way, shape or form suggest using this "blaster" small engine tune up. I am sticking with SeaFoam. Also I am no longer using the regular Sta-bil. I am using the Marine Sta-bil, which helps deal with the ethenol issues better than the regular Sta-bil.
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8ft trailer with trimmer rack
07 32" Ferris Hydrocut (new paint)
Craftsman 21" 7hp mower
Ariens LM22s 22" Walk behind mower
Stihl FS 90R Trimmer (2011)
Stihl FC 90R Edger (2011)
Stihl BR-600 (2012)
Husqvarna 125BT Backpack blower
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Proudly volunteering with Samaritan's Purse U.S Disaster Relief team since April, 2011

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  #38  
Old 02-15-2010, 09:58 AM
LexingtonKYcutter LexingtonKYcutter is offline
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First thing I would think would be the deck pitch. Always make sure the nose is a lower than the back.... If you dont have a dealer near you, why not try calling the factory. Im sure there would someone there who could help you out and answer some questions.
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  #39  
Old 02-20-2010, 07:49 PM
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Southernlandscape343 Southernlandscape343 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexingtonKYcutter View Post
First thing I would think would be the deck pitch. Always make sure the nose is a lower than the back.... If you dont have a dealer near you, why not try calling the factory. Im sure there would someone there who could help you out and answer some questions.
Yeah, It's worth a shot. As long as I don't have to listen to elevator music for thirty minutes before talking to a real living person.
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Lifted 05 Chevrolet Trailblazer w/ Z71 suspension - Emergency lighting and push bumper
8ft trailer with trimmer rack
07 32" Ferris Hydrocut (new paint)
Craftsman 21" 7hp mower
Ariens LM22s 22" Walk behind mower
Stihl FS 90R Trimmer (2011)
Stihl FC 90R Edger (2011)
Stihl BR-600 (2012)
Husqvarna 125BT Backpack blower
Husqvarna 455 Rancher (professional chain)
Poulan "wild thing"
Proudly volunteering with Samaritan's Purse U.S Disaster Relief team since April, 2011

Insured by GLOCK
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  #40  
Old 02-20-2010, 09:55 PM
hornett22 hornett22 is offline
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Good advice on here.

Does any manufacturer besides Scag use blade spacers?

It's amazing how much you can fine tune the cut on the Scags.
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