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  #1  
Old 10-04-2008, 01:46 PM
Rain Man av Rain Man av is offline
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Bolt Pattern needed Briggs Twin / Twin II L head

I need a template or document that diagrams the bolt pattern dimensions of a Briggs and Stratton Twin / Twin II cylinder L-Head engine. EX - 422707. From what I understand the same mounting block is used for the 14 up to the 20 hp Twin / Twin II L-head style engine.

I want a drawing or document that I can use to build a jig.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 10-04-2008, 04:36 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Rain Man,

Why can't you use/measure the head gasket ? Or am I missing what your looking for ?
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  #3  
Old 10-04-2008, 05:55 PM
Rain Man av Rain Man av is offline
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Bolt pattern where it bolts to the mower...
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:34 PM
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Well Rain Man,

I went through all my resources and came up empty on this info, If this is the same unit that's smoking just remove the engine then lay a piece of card board in it's place. Reach under the bottom of the frame and trace the holes on the card board.....
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  #5  
Old 10-05-2008, 02:41 AM
Rain Man av Rain Man av is offline
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Perfect Practice.

My goal is to hand a scale drawing to a machinist and have 'em build me a jig.

The reason for the jig is so that I can more efficiently and accurately drill out mounting bolts that tend to break. Even with the use of a center punch, I am never ever able to get the drill even close to being centered, nor am I able to drill the bolt out straight through. I always end up drilling down at a angle and then have to spend some time with a round file, filing away the crescent-moon part of the bolt that remains. I am so tired of revisiting this scenario.

The jig will bolt to the bottom and aligns a 1.25" steel dowel with the bolt I want to drill out. The dowel is 1 inch in diameter and has been pre-drilled to fit the drill bit needed and will act as a guide.

I'm not going to practice anymore. With the jig I have in mind, I will be able to drill out every broken bolt, exactly on center, every time.
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  #6  
Old 10-05-2008, 02:42 AM
Rain Man av Rain Man av is offline
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I'm sure somebody up at Briggs & Stratton has the information I seek.
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  #7  
Old 10-05-2008, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rain Man av View Post
I'm sure somebody up at Briggs & Stratton has the information I seek.

I'm sure they do as well, But that is not the type info that a tech would need for repairs. That's probably why I couldn't find it on my dealer's site.


Last option I know of is contact small engine warehouse, They supply this info on their site but since this is a out-dated engine they have no "L-Twins" listed (I checked).

They may still have this info in their data base and be kind enough to email it to you.

BTW, I don't recall ever breaking a engine mount bolt. Maybe your not holding your wrench right ?


Good Luck
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"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #8  
Old 10-05-2008, 03:04 PM
Rain Man av Rain Man av is offline
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Briggs and Stratton will have this information in their database, how else could the communicate to MTD and other where to drill holes in their chasis to accept the engine.

Steel bolt into an aluminum housing. I've posted information questions on this site before about how to "not" break the bolts, but nobody could tell me how "not" too. The only engines that I have removed were the Twin cylinder L=Head styles, and in two out of three cases, the head twisted off the bolt, requiring me to drill it out. In one of those two cases, two bolts broke on me.

I have the same problem with steel bolts into aluminum mandrel (deck) housings.

I was able to get Poulan to send me a PDF with specifications for a bracket that was welded to the deck - I had a metal shop build it for me and a neighbor weld it on. When I was done, it was hard to tell it was not original to the unit.

Do you remove the bolts used to mount the engines to the frame with a hand wrench, or do you use an impact ?
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rain Man av View Post
Briggs and Stratton will have this information in their database
I know they do, The problem is you getting it from them.....

I use my air impact with a 4 to 6" extension, The extension adds a little more vibration to the bolt while twisting to aid in removal.

Aluminum spindles (MTD, Sears ect.) I still use my impact without a extension if I'm replacing the whole assembly because I don't care if they break. Now, If I'm only replacing bearings in the spindle I do it right on the machine.

I have a over-head electric wench in which I raise the whole front of the unit up (straight up if I want) set the deck to the lowest position. Pull the deck hanger clips on one side at a time, This gives room to get my impact on the spindle nut for removal of the shaft then replace the bearings.

Working in a job shop one has to find ways to cut corners on repair time and make the job easier, So with this wench (the best investment I've ever made) I can rebuild spindles without removing the deck from under a unit or spindles from the deck and it's heavy enough to stand a ZTR on it's nose for any repairs.
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You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #10  
Old 10-05-2008, 07:07 PM
Rain Man av Rain Man av is offline
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I've started the process with B&S. I'll duplicate my effort with MTD and see who yields first.
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