Dirtman's Picture Thread

[Dirtman2007]

Originally Posted by jmacd

Chris,
A couple of suggestions. Have your pipe with bell ends facing direction of work.
What we do is push pipe into bell end instead of the other way around. You then are not pushing dirt in to pipe and pipe fits together much better.

We also work from lower elevation up and face bell ends uphill. Then again push spigot end into bell not the other way around.

They also make all kinds of 22.5 or 45 or 90 degree fittings for N12 pipe that would make your connection to your structure correct.

The pipe should be bedded in something other than existing material like stone or sand but pipe that big wont move much. This customer is spending some money so the extra fine tuning wont cost much compared to the over all project.

It looks like you are using pipe lube so that makes it go much easier, you can buy that in a spray can instead of brushing it on, also easier.

We also buy our structures with the inverts all ready cut in them so no cutting the holes in on site.

I agree with everything you said but when your 2nd from the top all you can do is make suggestions. Clearly I dont know what Im talking about all the time so I just put the sh*t in the ground like told to.

thats why I do things my way when I work alone


finished up the grouting of the pipes and backfilling today. seed and straw tomorrow


piles getting smaller





not very pretty but it wont leak



grading! I like grading




what pond?









lil more dirt by the road and its done

[jmacd]

Well, you have to do what the boss says thats for sure. If we fill the structure up like that with concrete they would make me take it out. My work is mostly overseen by architect.

I agree with you that it isn't going to move anytime soon.

The thing you have going for you is the ground doesn't freeze as deep were you are, our freeze depth is 48".

Did you mortar the rim on?

[Dirtman2007]

Originally Posted by jmacd

Well, you have to do what the boss says thats for sure. If we fill the structure up like that with concrete they would make me take it out. My work is mostly overseen by architect.

I agree with you that it isn't going to move anytime soon.

The thing you have going for you is the ground doesn't freeze as deep were you are, our freeze depth is 48".

Did you mortar the rim on?

I poured concrete in the bottom of the boxes to get it level with the bottom of the pipes, then use a non shrink grout on the inside to make it look good.

conseal then the lid, boss's exact words were " its not going to leap off" so nope the metal grate it just sitting on here.

[jmacd]

Leaving some room in the bottom of the structure is recommended because it catches the fines, silt or anything else that go into the structure instead of sending it down the pipe.

The rim should be mortared on because if it does move than the structure is open. It wont take much to move that rim if it gets hit buy a tractor of even some one brush hogging the field etc.

The extra time it takes is about 1/2 hour to do it.

The hydraulic cement was a good idea, that stuff gets hot and drys fast huh.

Here is one we did.

[jmacd]

Here are a few more.

The bottom is deep to catch silt, stone etc from running down the pipe.



Here you can see that the structure had the inverts in from the manufacturer.

[Dirtman2007]

time to load some pics i've been slacking


graded 150 tons of stone around a new building



next project placing 20 tons of boulders around the end of a 6' tall pipe that has washed out and erroded







then 400' of pond damn stablization






pumping flowable fill under the hollow pipe and into the rock to hold it in place













oh lookie what someone left on the side of the road for me!





Digging out 2500 yards out of this pond for irrigation. owner didnt want to drain the pond as they wanted to try and keep the only water they had.

















gonna need a bath!

[bobcatexc]

Chris, nice work on the 400' pond stabilization, just curious did you have to dig out mud to key the riprap 12 to 18" in or did you just lay fabric on the mud and start slinging riprap? Also I assume you dumped the riprap on top of the dam and slung it down, did a nice job cleaning all the fines and limestone can't really see anything unless your hiding it with straw.

[Swampy]

Good to see the ol' 5 ton is working good for you. All you need is a job site radio blairing some CCR on it and your set.

[Dirtman2007]

Originally Posted by bobcatexc

Chris, nice work on the 400' pond stabilization, just curious did you have to dig out mud to key the riprap 12 to 18" in or did you just lay fabric on the mud and start slinging riprap? Also I assume you dumped the riprap on top of the dam and slung it down, did a nice job cleaning all the fines and limestone can't really see anything unless your hiding it with straw.

thanks yeah we took the minis and knotched it out so that the rock would sit level with the top of the bank. I just forgot to take a picture. then I hauled it all down there with the skid steer and drove down the edge and dumped it onto the fabric to keep it from making such a mess on the bank. did a few backwards wheelies tho

[Dirtman2007]

Originally Posted by Swampy

Good to see the ol' 5 ton is working good for you. All you need is a job site radio blairing some CCR on it and your set.

and some cold AC!