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  #11  
Old 12-19-2008, 04:45 PM
Albery's Lawn & Tractor's Avatar
Albery's Lawn & Tractor Albery's Lawn & Tractor is offline
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7 acres and we are running them as a border around our property. There fixing to develop 2,800 homes around us so we're doing this for privacy. Trees aren't mulched or anything like that. Tomscreek, any chance I can get you to email me a list of the plants you offer and prices? Not too happy with what we've been buying here lately, and would rather just buy in bulk from now on and stock them here.
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  #12  
Old 12-19-2008, 05:57 PM
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White Gardens White Gardens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albery's Lawn & Tractor View Post
White Gardens: do you think it would help if I went around the base of the trees already planted with a bulb auger?

It might help some, but you might not be able to get deep enough. If you could rent something a little bigger, with a 3-4 inch auger that could also go 2-3 feet deep.

Even if you use a bulb auger, you might run into some bigger material that might slip the clutch, or worse, twist/break a hand.

Regardless, anything will help until you get good establishment.

Also, never hurts to get a soil sample done also.
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2008, 07:03 PM
AGLA AGLA is offline
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Clay does prevent water movement. The voids between particles are smaller, so it can contain less volume of water. But, the smaller void hold the water much more tightly. Clay absorbs water slowly, but it does not like to give it up to larger particled soil unless it is saturated. Clay can be very wet with completely dry sand under it.

When you dig holes in clay and fill them in with looser soil it tends to act like a bucket unless you break through to a looser soil (like has been said). It would probably be better to not ammend the soil if you can't break through to another soil type.

I would also agree with the person who mentioned that the symptoms are also similar to being planted too deep.

Another action could be to raise the soils around the plants outside of the area of the original hole in order to make a dike to keep surface water from entering the amended soil.
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  #14  
Old 12-20-2008, 09:16 AM
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BrandonV BrandonV is online now
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Location: Asheboro, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albery's Lawn & Tractor View Post
7 acres and we are running them as a border around our property. There fixing to develop 2,800 homes around us so we're doing this for privacy. Trees aren't mulched or anything like that. Tomscreek, any chance I can get you to email me a list of the plants you offer and prices? Not too happy with what we've been buying here lately, and would rather just buy in bulk from now on and stock them here.
I'd be happy to, if we had such a list :-) we grow/stock around 1000 varieties of plants, and some we have big numbers of and some we don't. If you click on our webpage (under my name) you can click on the "plant database" button on the bottom, that will bring up a search menu and you can browse through that. it'll show exactly the prices and sizes we have in our computer, only problem with that is sometimes we run out, but it'll give you an idea. You might look into the cryptomeria japonica 'yoshino' if you like the leylands, this is a hardier less troublesome plant with a similar look. but if you wind up redoing some of your border, I'd avoid using all the same plant. this way when a disease or pest (ie bagworms) move in you're not wiped out.
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  #15  
Old 12-20-2008, 10:21 AM
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Dreams To Designs Dreams To Designs is offline
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Brandon brings up an excellent point about overplanting of a single species can lead to total devastation when a pest or disease problems occur, not to mention the monotonously boring look. Mix in a few other plants, like Green Giant Arborvitae, Cryptomeria or other large needled evergreens to complete your screening, but add some interest and sustainability. You can likely find some inexpensive broad leafed evergreens as well.

You can perform a simplified perk test by using a post hole digger, or an auger to bore some holes in the area you want to plant. Dig down about 2'-3', fill with water and determine how long they take to drain. When removing the soil, examine and attempt to determine the texture, whether clay, flat flake like consistency, sand, small irregular rock like consistency or loam, a combination with organic matter. As AGLA stated, a clay layer directly above a sand layer will become totally saturated before allowing the water to seep down into the sand layer, similar to a sponge. A sponge will hold as much water as it can, before releasing that water via gravity. Adding compost to clay soils creates aggregation which bonds the clay together in clump like structures, which creates greater pore space and channels for free water to move down through the soil more quickly.

Kirk
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