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Old 01-21-2009, 12:18 PM
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gqnine44 gqnine44 is offline
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Crabapple spray program?

I have a customer who is requesting a spray program for their crabapples. The trees havent had any issues - this would be more of a preventative insect and disease program. I typically dont do much tree/shrub spraying and am not sure what a good program would consist of. (yes, of course we are licesned) Any ideas. Thanks for your help!
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:06 PM
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phasthound phasthound is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gqnine44 View Post
I have a customer who is requesting a spray program for their crabapples. The trees havent had any issues - this would be more of a preventative insect and disease program. I typically dont do much tree/shrub spraying and am not sure what a good program would consist of. (yes, of course we are licesned) Any ideas. Thanks for your help!
If there have been no problems why would one needlessly apply pesticides? The crabapples sound like they are a disease resistant variety. For insect problems apply horticultural oil before bud break for some prevention. If caterpillars are present later in season apply Bt.
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:40 PM
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gqnine44 gqnine44 is offline
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Originally Posted by phasthound View Post
If there have been no problems why would one needlessly apply pesticides? The crabapples sound like they are a disease resistant variety. For insect problems apply horticultural oil before bud break for some prevention. If caterpillars are present later in season apply Bt.
I agree and am trying to convince them of this. However, it is a HOA and they really want a price/program for this service. It seems they are most worried about bagworms...I cant remember ever seeing them on crabapples - maybe they are talking about tent caterpillars? What do you guys who do a lot of tree and shrub spraying programs look like?
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Old 01-21-2009, 04:03 PM
RAlmaroad RAlmaroad is online now
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Give them a good shot of Dormant Oil. Won't hurt and will smother any insect eggs or larva that may/not be there. While you're at it, any other trees like apples, pears, dogwoods or smaller leafless bushes like forsythia would benefit from it also. Stuff is cheap and it will satisy your client and may even land you another account because you cared to listen to your client.
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Old 01-21-2009, 05:42 PM
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Most apples and crabapples have apple scab fungus. It can be severe if weather in spring is rainy. A well-timed fungicide spray just as the first buds are opening in the spring will prevent a lot of it. Say about April 15 or 20th. Additional sprays may be needed later in the year--sometimes several times. Do some reading--study up on this--at least try to be informed. http://hyg.aces.uiuc.edu/html/200501d.html

Cedar -apple rust, aphids and mites are a possibility also.

Last edited by RigglePLC; 01-21-2009 at 05:44 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 01-22-2009, 01:52 PM
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Grassmechanic Grassmechanic is offline
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For crabapples, I spray hort oil in the spring and again in the summer as long as it's not hot. I also will do a fungicide treatment if it warrants it. That's about it for crabapples.
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Old 01-22-2009, 04:25 PM
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If scab is a problem you need to apply a fungicide at leaf break and at 3/4 leaf expansion. Spray for tent cats and jap beetles maybe. A four service program would be sufficient for decent control.
Be careful of your insecticides and check labels. Some varieties are sensitive to certain chemicals. ie: orthene.
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:59 PM
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americanlawn americanlawn is offline
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it's no wonder

I will not share our program regarding Apple Scab. But I ask this.....where & how are fungicides absorbed? (through bark and buds?) Good luck if you believe this.

Is monitoring weather & plant growth important?....duh...guess not???????

Contact fungicides (like many land grant universities still recommend) vs systemic fungicides? Which ones cuz many come out every year?

Hort oils don't do crap regarding fungi. Then there's the caterpillars. Most folks are sold a bill of goods suggesting that hort oils are a :magic solution cuz they think chewing insects will be "prevented"

It's no wonder why ChemScape horts (many with college degrees) carried 'briefcases' while the lawn jockeys carried 'clipboards'.

My 2 cents worth.
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Last edited by americanlawn; 01-22-2009 at 08:05 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-19-2013, 06:06 PM
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Trees Too Trees Too is offline
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Scab fungus control!!!!

Usually the biggest problem with crabs is scab fungus. Which causes midsummer leaf spotting, yellowing and drop. A good crab-apple spray program would be preventative fungicide sprays from bud break, through the time that they are flowering. Maybe a couple of sprays during this window. If you miss this window, then forget it as you won't do your customer or your reputation any good!!!!!!
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2013, 11:26 AM
Cadzilla Cadzilla is offline
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What Trees Too said.

I never do hort oils. I don't buy into their usefulness.

My Crab program for susceptible varieties is two insect and disease control apps, one at bud break and one a few weeks later. I use Bifenthrin and Myclobutanil and or Propiconazole.

I don't do them often but have had great control of scab with Tebuconazole via a mauget injection.

Then there can be an optional insect app in summer for tent cats or beetles, mites etc.

I also never fertilize apple trees in spring.
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