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  #31  
Old 02-05-2009, 08:43 AM
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phasthound phasthound is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pristine1 View Post
Grew up in South Plainfield, did landscaping in Middlesex, Somerset, and Hunterdon Counties. Mostly Hillsboro, Montgomery, South Brunswick, and Princeton areas. I am going to try and get to that, gotta work out the kid stuff with my wife!
Cool, I do a lot of work in the Princeton area.
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  #32  
Old 02-05-2009, 09:07 AM
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you are going to need to spray more like 5-10 gallons of diluted tea per K. water is the carrier to get the micro herd down in the soil, so that they can find a place to hang out....
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  #33  
Old 02-05-2009, 09:12 AM
Mr. Nice Mr. Nice is offline
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I like to use at the lest 1 gallon+++ of concentrate to as many gallons I can put down for a good soaking in per thou.

A far as price per??? that will depend on a million things??

A old timer gave me good advice one time on that.

Look into the air..........grab a number......there you go....you got your price
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  #34  
Old 02-05-2009, 09:15 AM
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Looked into the air and grabbed about 150$ per acre.
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  #35  
Old 02-05-2009, 10:02 AM
Pristine1 Pristine1 is offline
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If you have to put down so much diluted, why not go with the concentrate at a lower rate. Just my weak math skills here, but I would think that by putting down 10 gallons per K, you obviously must have a huge tank (1000 gal?) in order to get through a day.

Also, up here, I know the synthetic guys are getting about $115/app for a 35K lawn. Don't know if that is cheap or not, I'm working on some market research. I do, however, think that by going organic, the personal involvement on each property should command a premium price. Thoughts???

One other option I have here is that I can pump water directly out of a river. Do it all the time with a hydroseeder (rented). How viable is that for a water source....I am currently on a well, so would be a little worried about running that thing dry in the summer. The river isn't polluted (too much!) so what do I need to worry about with that?
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  #36  
Old 02-05-2009, 10:05 AM
Pristine1 Pristine1 is offline
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Originally Posted by phasthound View Post
Cool, I do a lot of work in the Princeton area.
Great area to work in, obviously, lots of ca$h! My brother lives in Hillsboro, so I get out there once or twice a year. Been in Maine for 10 years now, don't think I could ever go back!
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  #37  
Old 02-05-2009, 10:14 AM
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treegal1 treegal1 is offline
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no large tank, just 200 gallons. after say an acre or so you will need more tea, so you have to re fill or carry a pony tank with just tea and then find water that will work for diluting the pony tank load. or just get back to your base and refill. load more compost and get back out there. my area is small, 20 miles max drive on the long side of things. I plan well and conserve trips as best as possible.

there are limits on how much compost and tea you can hold at one time. the stuff is big and heavy!!!
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  #38  
Old 02-05-2009, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Pristine1 View Post
If you have to put down so much diluted, why not go with the concentrate at a lower rate. Just my weak math skills here, but I would think that by putting down 10 gallons per K, you obviously must have a huge tank (1000 gal?) in order to get through a day.
Large tank for sure. Out here I can get away with a 750 gallon tank on a trailer and stay under DOT regs (I do not have the setup yet, I plan to spend 18 grand on that trailer).

You are not just going for a foliar application. You want these living bugs to get into the soil. Moist soil is the place for a soil microorganism. (Does CT breed out soil microorganisms? Some experts believe 'not exactly')

If you just apply the living bugs over the top they may dry out and die before getting to their new home.

Plus if I remember right TreeGal has found out that droplet size is a big factor in microbe survivability. Apply high volume (at relatively lower pressure) and minimize the chances that you will shred the bugs when they come out of the gun.

Just a couple thoughts.

Then again, you can skip the CT and go straight for the microbes + food + soil building compounds + some mineral nutrition = compost...
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  #39  
Old 02-05-2009, 10:51 AM
Pristine1 Pristine1 is offline
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Thanks Utah. The first thing I am going to be doing on all my lawns is top dressing with compost (actually, the second, soil test first!). From what I've gathered, that will supply the turf with a good soil conditioner and at least some N. Not sure what the microbe pop is on my local supply of compost, so that is where the tea will come in. If I have a good compost with thriving microbes, does it then make sense to treat the CT as a foliar app? Also, if applied while soil is moist, can that help to reduce the amount of CT needed?

By the way, why so much for a trailer to haul that. I rent a 600 gal. hydroseeder and it is on a 16' heavy duty landscape trailer. I'm assuming that the 18k includes a bigger sprayer and lots of bells and whistles!!??
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  #40  
Old 02-05-2009, 11:13 AM
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wow thats some big coins!!! I would not even go there.
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