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  #11  
Old 02-17-2009, 04:33 PM
RD 12 RD 12 is offline
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Location: Folsom, LA
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I would check with local schools and see what type of grass they are using and you may see how it is holding up. Bermuda it what we use down here with rye grass in the winter. A good quality seed will eliminate a lot of problems down the road.
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  #12  
Old 02-17-2009, 07:08 PM
MATSON TURF MATSON TURF is offline
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Location: Trenton, Michigan
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Call Lesco...Now known as john deere landscapes..You want the Premium Athletic mix or the Park and athletic mix for seed..get a good starter fert. from them...Also you might want to look into a slit seeder. You can rent one for $50 or $60 bucks a day....All this might be a little more $ in the short term, But you will get way better results in the long term
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  #13  
Old 02-18-2009, 02:49 PM
RPM1 RPM1 is offline
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lesco quated me tuf turf and said that was the seed that i should use. what do you pros think on that recommendation
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  #14  
Old 02-18-2009, 03:34 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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I don't care for tall fescue for sports fields. It can get clumpy, if it gets hard wear. It does not have rhizomes--will not creep to fill in bare spots. May need annual reseed. Also germination is slow, 10 to 14 days, compared to what they had last year. Think about Lesco Athletic Blend, (perennial rye for quick germination, and bluegrass for rhizomes and better self-repair). Try to find out what other schools and sports fields in your area are using. Lesco "Premium Athletic Blend" or "Double Eagle" should be considered. Also see link: http://www.landscapemanagement.net/l...l.jsp?id=69870
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  #15  
Old 02-18-2009, 05:54 PM
Drew Gemma Drew Gemma is offline
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- tall fescue has bad color, it needs to be planted in spring, slow to fill in and it isn't what they advertise. Plus it cost more to seed it needs a higher rate and has slower germination.

You want 80% blue 20% rye or 60 blue 40 rye at the low end. lesco has good seed but not always best price. use starter fert and lots of water. also what about run off gonna straw the area or use a mulch of sorts.

also what is seed bed like it needs to be preped prior to planting.

Trust me we have put in 4 fields just grading and seed and first 2 years care. No fun, no money and lots of complainers who have no clue of what is going on. We no longer offer our help unless we have 100% control of project.

Why not renovate older filed clean it up and save a lot of money. I think you should walk away Just my opinion!

Also we are in the same zone so watch what ppl suggest as bermuda would be terrible up here!
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  #16  
Old 02-19-2009, 10:11 AM
RD 12 RD 12 is offline
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You may also want to call pennington. You may get a cut on the prices if you are for rec purposes.
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  #17  
Old 02-20-2009, 09:24 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Sod is best--that is what the pros use. Is the site irrigated? Are you going to kill the old grass, strip the sod and start over? Second best. Are you going to overseed? Are you going to fertilize and water the grass after you sow seed? Plenty of water and 6 ferts per year, plus twice per week mowing and top-quality seed will get what you want. If not--you may be disappointed. Look for a dark green ryegrass like "Zoom" plus a "Midnight Type" bluegrass like "Quantum Leap". And check out Seed Research's Dr. Leah Brillman's talk as a Power Point presentation at:
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=see...utf-8&fr=b1ie7

Top seed is not enough--you have to make sure it has conditions ideal for germination, and professional care--if you want professional results. Bluegrass is slow, germinates in 14 to 21 days. It takes 18 months to grow sod.
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  #18  
Old 02-20-2009, 11:42 AM
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foreplease foreplease is offline
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I like your posts, Riggle, and most of the points made in the one above except that I would argue that better long term results are obtained by seeding. Granted, it takes a lot of after-care and some luck.

Although I have not seen the site to know what would be involved, I like Drew Gamma's suggestion to renovate. He is right on about having 100% control or walking.
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  #19  
Old 02-21-2009, 11:10 AM
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jnrogers jnrogers is offline
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I would use either the lesco tuf turf you mentioned or they also have a seed called teamates that is good. I would listen to your lesco rep there though because what we might use in TN is different than up there where you are. I would also sew in some ryegrass this fall that will keep a good stand of turf while it is still to cold for the grass to start growing, so you are not playing on a dead field in March and early April. Just my 2 cents worth.
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  #20  
Old 02-25-2009, 08:40 PM
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Clevelandturfgrass Clevelandturfgrass is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM1 View Post
lesco quated me tuf turf and said that was the seed that i should use. what do you pros think on that recommendation
I sell to Mansfield Schools and Mansfield Madison Schools. I have found the best seed for that area (NON-Irrigated) to be Turf Type Tall Fescue mix. I have had very good luck with Pro Athletic Blend (85% TTF / 10%Blue / 5% Rye). The Rye will germinate in 3-5 days, the Fescue in 8-12 and the Blue in 20+ days. The blend stands up very well in football and soccer situations and will do very well for softball. 50# will cover 6250ft2 @ 8#/1000. What is the softball fields use (adult, little league). Reason I ask, there is roughly a difference of .5 acres of playing surface and I will be able to help you figure total needed.

I will be in Mansfield on the 5th, and if you would like me to meet with you and help, just send me a pm..
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