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  #101  
Old 03-06-2009, 11:54 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Also, Whoop.
The agitation nozzles at the bottom of the tank often plug up with debris--particularly if you use pendimethalin. Very hard on the pump. No restriction allowed here. Pull them out and clean them up good. It is best to replace these with agitation nozzles that can pass any pieces of debris that get by the filter. Try using agitation-booster type nozzles. (With BIG openings). And put three or four all aimed in the same direction. They will cause your liquid solution to swirl, giving you better agitation. I tried to find proper nozzles on Rittenhouse--but couldn't find them--maybe Bob Rittenhouse can help.
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  #102  
Old 03-06-2009, 12:43 PM
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I never liked the pressure regulator on the D 30 and added a second one in the agitation line side of the manifold.
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  #103  
Old 03-06-2009, 12:49 PM
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whoopassonthebluegrass whoopassonthebluegrass is offline
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Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
Whoop, what pressure are you using? Excess pressure is hard on the pump. I use about 100 pounds.
I can't say for sure, as my gauge has never worked right. But it's low pressure. I don't think I ever use more than like 30psi (maybe even less than that)... Enough to run 2gpm out the end at a steady rate, but not have it blasting out of the nozzle...
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Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
About the filter. The picture looks like about a 100 or 200 mesh to me. About 100 to 200 openings per square inch. I melt urea. I use a 100 mesh prefilter inside the tank, and 325 mesh in front of the pump. Myself I think you should get rid of the filter on the pressure side near the reel. Filters belong on the suction side. You don't want restriction on the pressure side.
I have no filter inside the tank currently. And, as of yet, there's no filter on the outgoing side of the pump, either... just that one clear, T-Filter.

So now I'm getting mixed ideas about what's best. Obviously everyone has their own methods, and I just want to make the best decision possible. Pete says to run the widest mesh possible, so that I don't choke the flow. You're taking the opposite approach... It seems logical to me to have as little sediment move through the pump as possible - to preserve the longevity of the diaphragms, but not to the point that it risks bottle-necking... Also, earlier in the thread someone implied that restriction on the pressure side was irrelevant. So I'm confused...
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Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
One other thing--I prefer to use i-inch clear vinyl tubing on the suction side (no braid). The reason is--you can see the flow and spot air bubbles or debris. Secondly, if the vinyl tubeing shows any signs of collapsing then you know there is a suction restriction somewhere (usually a clogged filter).
That's a great idea. I've been thinking "I've never clogged", but realized that I wouldn't really know, because there's no way those reinforced lines would collapse...
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Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
Also I calculated that my pump (Hypro D252) pumps out about 20,000 gallons before I change the diaphragms only, at the end of the year.
If I can achieve that type of performance, I'll be ecstatic.
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Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
The agitation nozzles at the bottom of the tank often plug up with debris...
Good to know. I've never seen them NOT blasting away... but I'm all for pulling it apart and taking a look.
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Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
Try using agitation-booster type nozzles. (With BIG openings). And put three or four all aimed in the same direction. They will cause your liquid solution to swirl, giving you better agitation.
Smart. I'll have to figure out how I can redesign that. Would it serve any purpose to relocate the agitation assembly to one side (or a corner, even), as opposed to right in the middle?
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  #104  
Old 03-06-2009, 12:51 PM
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whoopassonthebluegrass whoopassonthebluegrass is offline
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Originally Posted by JLWC View Post
get rid of the manifold and put a 1 inch 6 inch long pipe niple and then use he u bolts on the ridged pipe
Great idea. I'll implement that and just yank the "T" out of there entirely.
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  #105  
Old 03-06-2009, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heritage View Post
Whoop keep in mind that the 403 is not a bad pump when configured correctly as the Owners Manual will show how to run the Lines to and From pump.
I hope like crazy that you're right!
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Then I realized that the water moving through the 3/8 hose from bypass pump to the manifold was moving FASTER than the water moving through the 1" suction line which caused CAVITATION.
Okay, that makes sense.
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I plugged the manifold with a plug and then added a longer 3/8" hose to the bypass at the pump and just loosely stuck in the top fillwell of the tank as a test to prove or dis-prove what I thought about the Cavatation issues a Wa-La!!!

The External diaghpram was smooth and STEADY!! Problem solved!!!
Awesome! That's the type of magic I'm hoping to work.
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  #106  
Old 03-06-2009, 01:18 PM
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whoopassonthebluegrass whoopassonthebluegrass is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
I use a 100 mesh prefilter inside the tank, and 325 mesh in front of the pump.
Sorry for the multiple posts... I just keep thinking about this concept and it makes a lot of sense. Normally when I'm mixing, I see a fair amount of the urea get pulled up into my filter and slowly dissolve away. Lesco, in fact, explained that "the way to know when it's dissolved, is when the filter is clear again".

It seems to me that putting a prefilter on at the suction, and thus: letting more of it dissolve in the tank instead of forcing the pump itself to do the hard work - makes a lot more sense and would go a long ways towards preserving my pump...

I'm not seeing end-line filters on rittenhouse, and dultmeier doesn't seem to have a fit for my lines, either. Where did you acquire yours?
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  #107  
Old 03-06-2009, 01:39 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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You didn't ask--but--I suggest spraying with the white nozzle. You get the same flow rate. The openings are big so you get a larger droplet that does not drift. And it hardly ever clogs or gets debris caught in the nozzle--almost everything passes through. The green nozzle is almost as good.

Get a new pressure guage.

I am not sure where is the best place to aim the agitation in a square tank.

Regarding the filters. Get a filter rated at about 10 gallons per minute. You want one with a large surface area so it will not plug right away, but will pass many unrestricted gallons before too much debris accumulates. If you melt urea perhaps you need two filters: Large mesh to stop the big stuff and then smaller to trap the fine particles and protect the pump. (And protect the pressure relief valve). You will seldom have to clean the gun nozzle.
Hope this helps. Let us know how you come out.
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  #108  
Old 03-06-2009, 01:45 PM
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whoopassonthebluegrass whoopassonthebluegrass is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
You didn't ask--but--I suggest spraying with the white nozzle. You get the same flow rate. The openings are big so you get a larger droplet that does not drift. And it hardly ever clogs or gets debris caught in the nozzle--almost everything passes through. The green nozzle is almost as good.
Good to know. I've only ever used the yellow 2gpm that mine came with. I'll check those other ones out. Do you happen to know if the Teejet nozzles are interchangeable with the chemlawn gun ones?
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Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
Regarding the filters. Get a filter rated at about 10 gallons per minute. You want one with a large surface area so it will not plug right away, but will pass many unrestricted gallons before too much debris accumulates.
Would it make sense to actually have the agitator partially blast against the prefilter, so as to keep it at least partially unobstructed?
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  #109  
Old 03-06-2009, 02:02 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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OK Whoop--I guess I have some dirt farmer blood in my genetics--I improvised. This after many problems with urea caught in my filter. Mrs. Frustration is the true mother of invention. I am not sure what the supply opening looks like inside the Space-saver tank. In my sprayer I have a short pipe in the tank. I covered the opening with a stainless steel screen from an old filter, bent to fit and locked it on with a screw clamp. 2. Then I covered the a wide area with some fiberglass window screen, using a large piece about 12 inches square so it would not plug with debris. The fiberglass screen is held in place by gluing it to the tank with silicone aquarium sealer or silicone tub sealer. I found that Gorilla Glue also works well. (Wear gloves). Of course, that is only possible if you can reach the bottom of the tank. The plan is to prevent the urea from getting out of the tank--by whatever means neccessary.
http://www.gorillaglue.com/glues/gorillaglue/index.aspx

Ideally Rittenhouse would come up with a plastic in-tank pre filter--that could be snapped out to clean, even if you didn't have long arms. What about it Tony?

Last edited by RigglePLC; 03-06-2009 at 02:07 PM. Reason: link
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  #110  
Old 03-06-2009, 02:16 PM
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whoopassonthebluegrass whoopassonthebluegrass is offline
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Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
...I am not sure what the supply opening looks like inside the Space-saver tank...
Here's what it looks like in there.
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