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  #121  
Old 08-22-2012, 04:01 PM
fumblefingers fumblefingers is offline
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Location: Geneva, Fl
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nozzle

Woops......I uninstalled Adobe Reader X and installed Adobe Reader 9 then updated it to remove vulnerabiliities because it has a Find function. The Find found nozzle on the SM which gives a screw torque. So the answer is the nozzle screwss out.
I should have started this project when the grass quit growing With the mower running the transmission worked like a charm but not the blade clutch.

The next part of the project will be to remove the blade, disconnect the cables and pull the engine from the mower housing to overhaul the blade clutch. I want the engine running right first. This beast should be good for another 21 years
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  #122  
Old 08-22-2012, 10:35 PM
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treysoucie treysoucie is offline
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Lol I found out this Carb on my 30 dollar w5021 is a walbro poulan weedeater Carb. I'm surprised it runs asgood as it does
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  #123  
Old 08-23-2012, 08:00 PM
fumblefingers fumblefingers is offline
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took carb apart again today but could not unscrew nozzle to clean as frozen in place and I would have to drill and use easy out to remove. Decided to try running before ordering parts so I Reassembled, and mower started on first pull on choke then afte 10 seconds switched to run. mower continued to run smoothly for 15 seconds then started the surging.

As soon as I engaged transmission, the mower took off and surging quit.

Tried to engage blade but no rotation. Shut down and pulled blade actuator against return spring with pinch bar (more leverage than cable) and worked back and forth a few times spraying with penetrating oil. Started up again but blade did not engage. Tightened cable and blade tried to engage but no luck. Shut down and rotated blade by hand. Very stiff turning.

Before, tearing down clutch system, I viewed SM which says actuator plates are forced togeather engaging lining on break holder. I assume this is something like a brake shoe material on an auto. When I looked this part up on Searsparts it says no longer available. RATS. Maybe, it would be worth a try to tear down and see if parts can be rehabed. This mower is too good to part out
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  #124  
Old 08-23-2012, 11:56 PM
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treysoucie treysoucie is offline
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Indeed. let me know how things turn out. You may be able to rig something for the friction clutch material
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  #125  
Old 08-24-2012, 10:01 AM
fumblefingers fumblefingers is offline
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hurricane on the way so need to put this away until fall. In meantime will search for parts.

One question though, When the engin starts it runs in choke with the normal putt putt and also for first 15 seconds then starts the surge, but when the transmission drive is engaged the engine powers up and the wheels turn so powerfully it takes off and engin runs normally, almost jerking the mower out of my hands. I am tempted to replace the pilot jet as I believe that it controls both low speed and mid range. Could the governor also need adjustment? It has never been altered from factory setting. Is the surge when sitting normal?

The engine does not quit.
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  #126  
Old 09-13-2012, 03:25 PM
D-Ray23 D-Ray23 is offline
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Location: Eules, TX
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W5021 pc

I'm new to here, but I bought a W5021PC from Craigslist for $40.00. It looks almost new with no rust. The guy said it’s been setting for 2 years so I drained the very black oil out and drained the gas and replaced the sparkplug. I put Sea Foam in with the fresh gas and it started on the first pull. I was amazed! It smoked a little at first, but stopped after a few seconds. The only issue is the blade clutch. I pulled it apart and saw there is no pad left on the blade holding plate and Sears no longer carries that part. I bit the bullet and ordered the whole clutch assembly (167.00) but I think I made a good decision. $207.00 for a tank and several envious neighbors isn’t too bad. I’ll use it to vacuum leaves in the fall because this thing will suck the grubs right out of the ground. I am looking for a side discharge chute if anyone has one.
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  #127  
Old 09-13-2012, 03:59 PM
fumblefingers fumblefingers is offline
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I got my 5021 running but waiting for cool weather to pull the clutch. Was there no way you could have had the clutch repaired? $200 is an ouch in this economy. Got any pictures of how hard it was to pull the clutch? I have a copy of the shop manual but it appears that after blade removal the whole engine needs to be pulled which means the transmission drive chain has to be pulled. Is their an easier way?

Right now if I start the engine it sort of hunts from slow to fast then slow but when I engage the transmission the mower jerks the handle out of my hand (almost) and drags me around the yard. When under load the engine smooths out. I am guessing that the fast slow fast engine speed has something to do with the govenor because the idle adjustment has no effect. What say you?
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  #128  
Old 09-19-2012, 06:24 PM
D-Ray23 D-Ray23 is offline
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I was surprised how easy it was to pull the motor, but my mower isnít self propelled. I squirted WD40 on the mower shaft 3 or 4 times over several days and follow the instructions in the manual. The first plate that comes off is the one that has the brake pad type material and mine was completely down to the metal. Sears sold it for $67.00, but itís a discontinued item, so I bought the whole clutch assembly. Again, I was surprised how easy it was to put on, and it worked w/o any adjustment.
My experience is somewhat limited, but engine surging is usually caused by limited gas flow such as clogged jets in the carb, air filter, gas filter, gas cap ext.
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  #129  
Old 09-19-2012, 06:40 PM
fumblefingers fumblefingers is offline
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I have cleaned the carb but I may order a pilot jet. The nozzel would have to be removed with an easyout as the brass tits are foobar so for now I will leave it alone. As I mentioned the governor slows the engin down. When I pulled the carb I noticed the governor butterfly not too smooth in operation but when I put some air wrench oil on the shaft it moved much better. The spring is tiny on the butterfy so that may be the problem, but as mentioned the engine starts on first pull and runs strong under load so I don't want to mess with the governor.

To get to the clutch, after blade removal I guess I could pull the 4 bolts on the housing. If I try to turn the blade by hand it is very stiff. The clutch cable is on the top side of the housing and the top of the clutch is splined so I guess you did not pull that part. I was hoping I could rivet some brake lining because I suspect that the lining is gone.
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  #130  
Old 09-23-2012, 10:05 PM
D-Ray23 D-Ray23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fumblefingers View Post
I have cleaned the carb but I may order a pilot jet. The nozzel would have to be removed with an easyout as the brass tits are foobar so for now I will leave it alone. As I mentioned the governor slows the engin down. When I pulled the carb I noticed the governor butterfly not too smooth in operation but when I put some air wrench oil on the shaft it moved much better. The spring is tiny on the butterfy so that may be the problem, but as mentioned the engine starts on first pull and runs strong under load so I don't want to mess with the governor.

To get to the clutch, after blade removal I guess I could pull the 4 bolts on the housing. If I try to turn the blade by hand it is very stiff. The clutch cable is on the top side of the housing and the top of the clutch is splined so I guess you did not pull that part. I was hoping I could rivet some brake lining because I suspect that the lining is gone.
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