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  #11  
Old 03-28-2009, 03:51 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cudaclan View Post
Should there be a concern for weed seeds germinating? Cows have four stomach chambers to "re-digest" and brake-down intake. With that much "composting", I would assume it is a better product. Horse do not share the same anatomy. This does not take in account the hormones and "fortified" feed that they are fed. And to think milorginite is a beneficial product. Well composted (dry) and aged manure, definitely.
Back in the old days farmers would run pigs behind the cows to finish getting the undigestted food value out of what the cows didn't use. So I would not count on weed seeds being killed, by passing through the digestive tract. Of course very few cows are allowed the luxury to graze any more.
They may never have a chance to eat a live seed. Weed or otherwise. Compostted is really the only safe way to go for lawns, other than your own.
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2009, 03:57 PM
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cgaengineer cgaengineer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cudaclan View Post
Should there be a concern for weed seeds germinating? Cows have four stomach chambers to "re-digest" and brake-down intake. With that much "composting", I would assume it is a better product. Horse do not share the same anatomy. This does not take in account the hormones and "fortified" feed that they are fed. And to think milorginite is a beneficial product. Well composted (dry) and aged manure, definitely.
Yes horse manure can contain more weed seeds, but if you you set it from the right place and they are grain fed I would think this wouldn't be too big of a problem.
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  #13  
Old 03-28-2009, 08:44 PM
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TMGL&L TMGL&L is offline
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I heard somewhere that you are not to use fresh cow chit right away on turf or really anything...It is to be dried and aged first. Maybe too high in N? I'm not sure... Definitely do your research.
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  #14  
Old 03-28-2009, 11:06 PM
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treegal1 treegal1 is offline
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lay down the shite and do the soil good.........

as we will all turn to compost when we die...................
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2009, 10:53 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by treegal1 View Post
lay down the shite and do the soil good.........

as we will all turn to compost when we die...................
instead of a chalkline of the body it will be a 'green' silhouette.

New slogan. "Fatboy - Does a soil good."
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2009, 11:09 AM
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muddstopper muddstopper is offline
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The biggest problem with cow poop, aged or otherwise is harmful bacteria. In this day and age of e-bola and such, using fully composted manure is the only safe way to go.

Cow poop will raise K levels in your soil, even more than what is actually contained in the poop. The addition of the poop will stimulate the biology and help release k in the soil that is otherwise unavailable. Several years of repeated poop use will create an imbalance of nutrients in the soil and result in a soil that is less fertile because of to much K. If you are going to use the cow poop on a continual basis, it is best to soil test every couple of years to monitor the nutrient levels. You might find that you will have to stop using the cow poo and look at other sources of manure to balance out your nutrient levels.

Feed lot cow poop will contain different nutrient levels than pastured cowpoop. This is due to the grain that is fed to the cattle. Feed lot manures tend to have higher P levels than pasture manures and is somewhat similar to horse poop in this reguard. You can also switch to chicken poo from layer chickens to raise calcium levels as well as lower your ph levels. Broiler manures again come from grain fed chickens without calcium supplements and do not raise, (generalized statement), ph levels or supply adequate calcium.

At any rate, the point of my post is that you can test your manures for proper nutrient levels and select the manures based on the nutrient needs of the soil, you dont have to stick to just one type of manure. Composted manures are safer than raw or dried manures, and the addition of manures will generaly raise nutrient levels more than the total amount of nutrient applied with the manures due to the stimulation of the soil microbes.
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  #17  
Old 03-30-2009, 10:27 PM
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TMGL&L TMGL&L is offline
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I love the excessive use of the poop word in such an educated-sounding post.
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  #18  
Old 03-31-2009, 06:36 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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When the manager of the nursery asked the lady if she was pleased with her bags of compost, she responded "Yes, but your man always uses the word, 'MANURE'. You really should get him to use the word 'FERTILIZER'".
"Yes, ma'am", he said, "but it took me 10 years to get him to use the word 'MANURE'".
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #19  
Old 03-31-2009, 09:00 AM
ICT Bill ICT Bill is offline
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Listen to Mudd he knows his POOP

Please compost the manure first, the heat involved in the process will kill off most of the pathogens and weed seeds. I saw one site where they used a bio-solid (human poop) that had not been composted properly, there must have been 10,000 tomato plants on the guys yard, hard lesson to learn.

Sometimes the poop will be too hot and will burn the turf. Last spring one guy on here posted pictures of some turf he applied horse poop to and it burn it just like if you spilled a high N fert on it. he was able to water his way out of it but it did not look very good to his reputation to the customer and neighbors
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  #20  
Old 03-31-2009, 04:14 PM
Chinch Bug Chinch Bug is offline
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Chinch Bug

Have you tried locating pelletized or granulated chicken fertilizer? Often comes pasteurized. Good stuff.
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