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  #11  
Old 04-05-2009, 12:42 AM
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FYS777 FYS777 is offline
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Originally Posted by karelle View Post
Yeah, I believe we did three times...whatever it said on the back of the bottle. I'll check out the any time fertilizer.
have your sprinklers been turned on yet? about compost, not manure, I don't know what they have there, but here in bend the landfill has bio fine compost for top dressing lawns, it's ground up lawn debris, really good stuff, the local nurseries should have some also, if you wont to go that route, for that size lawn in back probly 3 or 4 bags, of compost, dosen't take much, and the nurseries should know the grass mix for area, I'm guessing KBG mix
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  #12  
Old 04-05-2009, 07:39 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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What your picture shows has happened to every lawn I've seen that has 'daily' irrigation. You will have more and more airless compacted brown spots as time goes by.

Unfortunately, there is disagreement on sensible irrigation, but allowing the soil to dryout between waterings will make a difference in your grass's ability to grow healthy roots. So if you can disable the sprinklers - go for it.
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #13  
Old 04-05-2009, 09:28 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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This is an excellent page about losing Nitrogen. I picked out the paragragh about soil without air, losing N. Constant water removes air from a quality loam. Sandy soils can use water everyday, but not a soil with a decent amount of clay and OM.

Every lawncare professional should have this page memorized.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/crops/00550.html
4. Nitrate nitrogen to gaseous nitrogen (denitrification). When soil does not have sufficient air, microorganisms use the oxygen from NO3- in place of that in the air and rapidly convert NO3- to nitrogen oxide and nitrogen gases (N2). These gases escape to the atmosphere and are not available to plants. This transformation can occur within two or three days in poorly aerated soil and can result in large loses of nitrate-type fertilizers.
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #14  
Old 04-05-2009, 10:27 AM
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FYS777 FYS777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
What your picture shows has happened to every lawn I've seen that has 'daily' irrigation. You will have more and more airless compacted brown spots as time goes by.

Unfortunately, there is disagreement on sensible irrigation, but allowing the soil to dryout between waterings will make a difference in your grass's ability to grow healthy roots. So if you can disable the sprinklers - go for it.
Hi, I've lived there, it gets very hot there and drys out quickly, and by looking at the way the sun is hitting on the lawn in the photo, it will dry out enough, not to be contrary to you smallaxe, you have good points. and good post, thats why i said check with a shovel to see if the soil is staying moist, being compacted the water may be running off instead of socking in the lawn, very dry climate, 100 degree days in summer,
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  #15  
Old 04-05-2009, 12:29 PM
BostonBull BostonBull is offline
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If there is a worry about the grass being trampled before it is mature, then dont overseed. For a lawn that size though the small amount of grass, whether it lives or dies, isnt going to break the bank.

Compost is MUCH better for the soil and plant than fert would be. Especially if the soil is compacted.

Get a hold of those sprinklers, and turn them off. Water only when necessary, and water it DEEPLY. Deep and infrequent is better, especially with high traffic compacted areas. It forces the roots further into the soil for nutrients and water, and when drought time comes your lawn will have a higher survival rate than if you elave those sprionklers on all day.

If that is a Maple tree, I would think about 86'ing it. It will quickly outgrow that area, and you will hate it. maybe put a smaller woody type plant in its place. OakLeaf hydrangea, Viburnum, Red Twig dogwood, Apple Tree, etc etc
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  #16  
Old 04-05-2009, 02:52 PM
karelle karelle is offline
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Originally Posted by FYS777 View Post
have your sprinklers been turned on yet? about compost, not manure, I don't know what they have there, but here in bend the landfill has bio fine compost for top dressing lawns, it's ground up lawn debris, really good stuff, the local nurseries should have some also, if you wont to go that route, for that size lawn in back probly 3 or 4 bags, of compost, dosen't take much, and the nurseries should know the grass mix for area, I'm guessing KBG mix
The sprinklers in the front are on (I see the wet pavement when taking my son to catch his bus), but I don't think the ones in the back yard are on yet (which makes me wonder why they told me they were all on the same timer).

There is Biomass One nearby that offers compost....do any of these look good? http://www.biomassone.com/landscapin...1725c209c8a006

Also, we don't have a truck to rent one of those nice big aerators. Since we have such a small backyard, could we get away with something like this? http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...il=&lpage=none Or should we just hire someone to come do it for us?
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  #17  
Old 04-05-2009, 03:51 PM
BostonBull BostonBull is offline
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This place looks better, http://www.southernoregoncompost.com/ although its a hike from you. Good compost should be odor free.

Check ourt the local dairy farms too. alot of them have compost they use for their fields. If you ask nicely they may sell you some. Especially since you only need a small amount. 1 yard at the most I would say? Unless that yard is bigger than it looks.....?

As for the aeration......just hire someone. and aerate this fall. I am sure smallaxe and his huge brain will be by to tell you why. In short it promotes weed growth when aerating in spring.
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  #18  
Old 04-05-2009, 05:54 PM
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FYS777 FYS777 is offline
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Originally Posted by BostonBull View Post
This place looks better, http://www.southernoregoncompost.com/ although its a hike from you. Good compost should be odor free.

Check ourt the local dairy farms too. alot of them have compost they use for their fields. If you ask nicely they may sell you some. Especially since you only need a small amount. 1 yard at the most I would say? Unless that yard is bigger than it looks.....?

As for the aeration......just hire someone. and aerate this fall. I am sure smallaxe and his huge brain will be by to tell you why. In short it promotes weed growth when aerating in spring.
The SOC compost does look better, if its close by, don't use dairy manure, to many weed seeds!! what it looks like you, considering the house tracts, is you probably have between 600 to 800 sgaure feet of lawn, if you put 1/4 inch of compost on the lawn you would need 1/2 yard of compost, roughly three 30 gallon garbage cans filled. but then you would have messy feet coming in and out of the house, for a while. I do suggest aerating now, the weed problem wont be to bad on small lawn as your, plus if you have it done now you will save water, it will soak in instead of run off. most folks either charge 50 to 75 dollar min, for aerating, if you did get whats at lowes the foot aeraters you could have that done in a couple hours easy and don't have to do it all at once, could actually get one for each foot, and then you'll have them for any time aerating also, just doing whats economical for you, make sure the water is going in back
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  #19  
Old 04-05-2009, 06:04 PM
karelle karelle is offline
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Thanks again everyone! You guys are a wealth of knowledge!!

Okay, I can make a run to Grants Pass...so do I want the "manure compost" (is that what you're saying NO to, FYS?) or the "fine compost" that they have listed (or something else completely)? Although, crap...that's a lot of compost. Will I be able to get this all in my minivan? Perhaps I need to find someone with a truck?

Here's the layout/dimensions of the yard (just the grass):


A shot of the other side of the patio


And the base of the tree (does this need bark mulch or something covering the dirt so it doesn't dry out so fast?)
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  #20  
Old 04-05-2009, 06:11 PM
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FYS777 FYS777 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central, OR.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karelle View Post
Thanks again everyone! You guys are a wealth of knowledge!!

Okay, I can make a run to Grants Pass...so do I want the "manure compost" (is that what you're saying NO to, FYS?) or the "fine compost" that they have listed (or something else completely)? Although, crap...that's a lot of compost. Will I be able to get this all in my minivan? Perhaps I need to find someone with a truck?

Here's the layout/dimensions of the yard (just the grass):


A shot of the other side of the patio


And the base of the tree (does this need bark mulch or something covering the dirt so it doesn't dry out so fast?)
three of the 30 gallon cans or 6, 2 cubic foot bags with those measuremnet it would take a little over a 1/3 cubic yard hope that helps
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